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First attempt at under dash horns!


Deeznutz

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Hey guys. It's been a few wks since I posted anything. Since I installed the Alpine 7894, I purchased the XM radio receiver and antenna for $60 extra. I sprung for the subscription and love it. I purchased the CC-1 from Kardov and man this thing is great. I was WAY OFF on the sub frequency. I have the front at 80Hz HP, and 80Hz low pass using the CC-1. The knob is now at the 9 o'clock position and not at 12 o'clock.

Now that the stereo sounds better, I wanted to do something more. Someone on here posted an interview of the original owner of Image Dynamics. I remember they had those crazy horn tweeters back in the day. So I was bored at work, and kept googling more about the horns. Only horns on Ebay...they want $788! With only 1 person in the ER on Wednesday night, remembering a "Crossfire Car Audio" brand auction I kept coming across, I logged onto Ebay. I found the Crossfire BMF 8 Ohm Compression drivers with EQ filters. For $56 I said "What the hell, if I don't like them I'm out $56 plus fiberglass and resin!".

Well, they arrived today. I made a crude mock up for the driver's side. The amp is an old Crossfire CFA142, 35W x2 @ 4 Ohm, so the driver is only getting 17.5W @ 8 Ohm. I covered the Eclipse tweets with papertowels and tape.

I broke out the Lanzar Optidrive X2 active crossover, and used the CC1 to get 2.25k high pass. 12db/oct. For some reason the knob was between 7-8k??!! The track was #15, and the light was blue on the CC1 so it should for all intensive purposes be correct.

The vocals are really nice, without the standard tweeter peakiness and "SSSSSSS" sound. The higher frequencies could be alittle higher. Maybe an EQ can fix that. I will start work on the horns soon.

-Frank

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Awesome Experiment brother ... wish the could go higher.

Test and tune away bro, I'm tined in !!

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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You can't angle horn drivers. Well, not those kind anyways. They do need to be as far apart as possible.

Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co 

Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? 

SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado   

"The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually"   

Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet)

Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch                         

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Well, I stayed home today to do the first fiberglass horn.

As far as the exit angle, I looked at the ID youtube video's. Yes, horn drivers, the horns can be angled. The larger horns (the originals) have an "exit angle of 22 degrees". They talked about the "mini" which is what I am trying, but no mention of the exit angle other than "it's alot steeper". The only way to reference the angle is to buy a set of unmolested mini's.

So the mock up begins. Scrap MDF. The angle is 40 degrees since they said it was "steeper". Opening is 1.5" x 9". Looking at the pics online, the mouth looks to be twice the length of the horn. Most drivers are 4-4.5" wide, so I chose 9". I rounded the end of the horn like the originals, so the sound doesn't bounce off a wall, so to speak. I dug in and made 2 small areas, that will serve as speed bumps as it goes to the listener. See the other pics.

IMAG1988_zpsjmdurf4h.jpg

I had to make the part in 2 pieces. I.D. uses a 2 part mold from what I can see in the pics. 2 layers of cloth to mold, than 2 layers of the heavier stuff. I still feel it needs a 3rd heavy layer since there is some flex in the middle of the mouth openings. Or I can add a 3 layer flat face like the I.D.'s. That should take care of the stiffness.

IMAG1987_zpsghhw6njl.jpg

Glad I kept the speaker cutouts. These 4.5" cutouts came in handy!

IMAG1989_zpsvkan1trh.jpg

Parts combined. Hard to see, but the speed bumps are there. I am going to have to break out the Lanzar X3 and run active, since the reason the mid range is so clear is because, mini horns "can play" from 1k up to 13.5k. So it's like a doubled effect. I'm going to have to look at the Eclipse manual to see where the mids are crossed at and see what an active set up sounds like.

IMAG1995_zpsebm9baws.jpg

Tomorrow, to make the driver's side. The cool thing about this mold is that, it's symmetrical! Although I made the passenger side, the pass side magnet will face down, I can spin the horn around and point the magnet up into the dash. Keeps me from making an other wooden mock up!

Do I know what I am doing???? Nope, never hurts to try!

-Frank

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There is a member here that has a set of the mini's that maybe would measure them for you.

I'll pm him and see if he will chime in for you.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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Well, while at work I juggled over the idea of losing another days pay to build these thing. With the probability looming that I was going to having to make them over and over again to get them right I decided to just buy the real ones. Sure its great building ish, but not great if you don't know where to begin. I went ahead and spoke to the man himself, Eric Stevens! His knowledge and helpfulness basically talked me into getting the mini horn drivers! He said, they will work with most compression drivers under 4" diameter. The Crossfires are 3.75" diameter. And he's right, horns do not take much to power and sound more dynamic. I just paid him via PayPal. Should be getting them sometime next week. I really do want to see how off I really was. I will post pics of the real deal and my horns for comparison.

Stay tuned!

-Frank

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