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dual alternator in my honda questions


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OP, you have been given the advice to run 1 good HO alt by a dozen plus members on here. But.... you seem to want to run 2 alts so do it! And in the end when you have to buy 1 good alt you will be like..... DAMN all those guys where right! Your charging system is the foundation of the build and thats where you want to be cheap. Save up like the rest of us and build it right once.

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From experience get a 250a hairpin and save yourself the trouble. Those stock units put out like 60a at idle which won't do a thing for you for all the trouble you will be going through. The 250a hairpin will put out around 235.. 200 guaranteed amps on tap all the time as long as it's spinning

What?

A stock (BMW) alternator that doesn't put out at least 70% of it's maximum output at idle is broken.(It'll be closer to 130A at idle)

EDIT: OP, just get yourself a new HO alternator from a reputable company. (and at 40$ for the alternator, it's probably broken)

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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Just bite the bullet and get one good ho.

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Hey guys, so I have a 2003 Honda Accord v6 with roughly 3000 watts running through it. I have an upgraded yellow top under the hood and 2 xs batteries in the trunk and because of the electric load detector my alternator only puts out 12.2 volts most of the time. The problem is when I'm playing my music I drop to 10.9 volts. Therefore I plan on running a second alternater, bypassing the battery under the hood and going straight to the trunk batteries making it a stand alone electrical system exclusively for my amps power demands. My question is how to wire the alternator and does anybody see any issues with this? BTW I'm using a stock BMW alternator that I got for cheap price that is 180 amps, I figured that was enough and would last forever.

I have a Honda Civic with 3,300 RMS running through it and think your idea is crazy.

The ELD is tricky to bypass. Your options are either run your headlights at all times which keeps the ELD signal on at all times (on mine car is kept the voltage at 13.8V) or unplug the ELD sensor wire out of the fuse box which will keep the alternator running full tilt but will give you a check engine light (Not really risky since it's easy to plug back in before inspection but it's still a hassle).

All you need is an aftermarket alternator (my 275A Singer alternator with ELD bypass was $450, the 310A model was offered but I didn't need that much power). The owner of Singer alts has a Honda vechicle so he knows how to bypass the ELD without it causing a check engine light (he basically voids the path of the sense wire and as a result the alternator runs on it's own internal regulator). Since the stock wire is void it detects no disruption (thus no check engine light)

Mine charges at 14.8V at all times (idle and driving).

This is the website http://singeralternators.com/

To my knowledge he's the only big name that can do alts with the ELD bypass (Mechman and DC which are two other big alt companies would bulid me an alternator but didn't have the ELD bypass, thus I would still have to keep my headlights on and would get less than 14V).

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His name is Mike Singer, and the ELD bypass isn't that difficult. If that's too difficult for you to do, you shouldn't be messing with High Output alternators and high output audio anyway!

Just my $.02. I would buy Singer Alts all day long! The ELD bypass is a bonus. Mike's a stand up guy and knows his shit, without a doubt!

Be careful about warning people about it being too difficult, that's not really accurate information. It's really not any more difficult than installing an amplifier and really, at the end of the day, an amplifier is actually probably more work to install.

OP, you'll do yourself some good biting the bullet like you said. Nice choice, you won't regret it. Now, go get ahold of Mike and get that thing on it's way so we can see how happy your are.

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