Jump to content

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

hey man quick question!

I also have an e39 (touring, not sedan) and am looking at a singer 330A or 370A alt. When I spoke to Mike he mentioned that he'd have to do an externally regulated alt with a remote power on. Did you encounter this? if so what did you do to install it and what repercussions have you noticed? also i noticed your pulley was out of alignment and you had to custom work it to fix it, was yours a hairpin style? do you think some washers between the alt and the bracket wouldve also alleviated the problem? Sorry, for all the questions, I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before i pull the trigger on a $750 alternator. anything else you can think of please let me know! Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey man quick question!

I also have an e39 (touring, not sedan) and am looking at a singer 330A or 370A alt. When I spoke to Mike he mentioned that he'd have to do an externally regulated alt with a remote power on. Did you encounter this? if so what did you do to install it and what repercussions have you noticed? also i noticed your pulley was out of alignment and you had to custom work it to fix it, was yours a hairpin style? do you think some washers between the alt and the bracket wouldve also alleviated the problem? Sorry, for all the questions, I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before i pull the trigger on a $750 alternator. anything else you can think of please let me know! Thanks!

he told me aswell it would be externally regulated but the regulator is still in the alternator its just adjusting itself and not being controlled by the car in any matter like the original one. he will give you the plug and all you have to do is connect one of the wires to the charging post on the alternator and another one to remote that will get 12volt when you turn on the car. normally you would get a lamp for alternator failure since you dont use the oem plug but that wasnt the case for me for some reason.

And yes it was a 370 hairpin alt, it would have worked to put some washers on there if the shaft was longer but it was just long enough so if you put some washers behind it then it will not be able to center itself because there is a conus on the shaft that it senters itself. if you tell him that it needs to be about 2cm further out than the one he did for me and he can do this it should be fine to use the pulley he puts on it.

and you cant actually make the alternator itsel go further in the front of the engine because of the way it mounts to the m52 engine block so the only option is the change the pulley or get the shaft to stick further out in the first place. now you know of this problem, i did not so i had to change the pulley.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey man quick question!

I also have an e39 (touring, not sedan) and am looking at a singer 330A or 370A alt. When I spoke to Mike he mentioned that he'd have to do an externally regulated alt with a remote power on. Did you encounter this? if so what did you do to install it and what repercussions have you noticed? also i noticed your pulley was out of alignment and you had to custom work it to fix it, was yours a hairpin style? do you think some washers between the alt and the bracket wouldve also alleviated the problem? Sorry, for all the questions, I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before i pull the trigger on a $750 alternator. anything else you can think of please let me know! Thanks!

he told me aswell it would be externally regulated but the regulator is still in the alternator its just adjusting itself and not being controlled by the car in any matter like the original one. he will give you the plug and all you have to do is connect one of the wires to the charging post on the alternator and another one to remote that will get 12volt when you turn on the car. normally you would get a lamp for alternator failure since you dont use the oem plug but that wasnt the case for me for some reason.

And yes it was a 370 hairpin alt, it would have worked to put some washers on there if the shaft was longer but it was just long enough so if you put some washers behind it then it will not be able to center itself because there is a conus on the shaft that it senters itself. if you tell him that it needs to be about 2cm further out than the one he did for me and he can do this it should be fine to use the pulley he puts on it.

and you cant actually make the alternator itsel go further in the front of the engine because of the way it mounts to the m52 engine block so the only option is the change the pulley or get the shaft to stick further out in the first place. now you know of this problem, i did not so i had to change the pulley.

thanks man, thats hugely helpful! i really appreciate it! do you know if that 2cm is exact? Id prefer to rely on his manufacturing/modification methods on something like this, rather than my own skills.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hey man quick question!

I also have an e39 (touring, not sedan) and am looking at a singer 330A or 370A alt. When I spoke to Mike he mentioned that he'd have to do an externally regulated alt with a remote power on. Did you encounter this? if so what did you do to install it and what repercussions have you noticed? also i noticed your pulley was out of alignment and you had to custom work it to fix it, was yours a hairpin style? do you think some washers between the alt and the bracket wouldve also alleviated the problem? Sorry, for all the questions, I'm just trying to get my ducks in a row before i pull the trigger on a $750 alternator. anything else you can think of please let me know! Thanks!

he told me aswell it would be externally regulated but the regulator is still in the alternator its just adjusting itself and not being controlled by the car in any matter like the original one. he will give you the plug and all you have to do is connect one of the wires to the charging post on the alternator and another one to remote that will get 12volt when you turn on the car. normally you would get a lamp for alternator failure since you dont use the oem plug but that wasnt the case for me for some reason.

And yes it was a 370 hairpin alt, it would have worked to put some washers on there if the shaft was longer but it was just long enough so if you put some washers behind it then it will not be able to center itself because there is a conus on the shaft that it senters itself. if you tell him that it needs to be about 2cm further out than the one he did for me and he can do this it should be fine to use the pulley he puts on it.

and you cant actually make the alternator itsel go further in the front of the engine because of the way it mounts to the m52 engine block so the only option is the change the pulley or get the shaft to stick further out in the first place. now you know of this problem, i did not so i had to change the pulley.

thanks man, thats hugely helpful! i really appreciate it! do you know if that 2cm is exact? Id prefer to rely on his manufacturing/modification methods on something like this, rather than my own skills.

i added an extra 2cm and now it fits fine on the pulley, but thats on the last pulley he gave me that actually is shorter out from the one he normally sends out but if its to far out you should be able to just use the groove one more towards the alternator since the pulley he sends you is a 6rib and the belt is only a 4 g. but between 1,5 and 2cm should be fine, if it sticks alittle to far out its not as bad as to short because then it rubs against the engine block.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

i have a week of because of easter so im gonna work some more with the car, going to do some more finishing touches inside the car, fitting the voltmeter and fitting the drc for the bit one properly, going to remove the passive crossovers in the doors and run active in the front and if i have the time i will finish the last panels in the back of the trunk.

JaKpk5P.jpg

Glued in a bottom with holes to screw the drc
q8R6WK1.jpg
rough filled it and removed the drc to finish it up, after this pic i sanded it abit down and filled in the pits and got the shape better, used a thinner filler that dries much slower so im going to sand it down either later tonight or tomorrow in the morning and put some primer on it to see how it looks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

had some time of and took the roof liner of and dampened the roof to try and reduce my windshield flex. the factory dampening was a pain the remove as it was glued on with some really strong glue and was made up of stiff cardboard and some dampening fabric on top of it. 

 

in the first picture the factory dampening is in the back of the car still in and one layer in the front, did not stiffen it to much so i put another layer in and it got abit better. still having a fair bit of flex but its better, dont really get why it moves like that in the top of the windshield when everything else on the car is pretty stiff and doesnt flex. just 2 12inch subs and only playing around 143-144ish. 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the same problem with windshield flex, but worse since my car is much cheaper than yours, and built less rigid.  Think of the windshield and the roof (especially with a sunroof) to be the least supported part of the car.  This is why theres so much flex.

I recommend installing extra metal on the windshield beam.  I installed rivet-nuts in my beam and attached a metal brace, which reduced flex tremendously.  I ended up welding a 'stripper pole' to that brace since my flex was out of control and started breaking the edges of the windshield.  You may not need a pole, I bet some supporting metal on the beam will help.

IMG_0370.jpg

I have also seen some people epoxy some metal into place with good results.  Make sure you address the problem before it gets worse.  If the spot welds start breaking, your problem will get expensive fast.  Best of luck!

Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

(4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts

Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log

https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/

IG @walledsonic

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1.6.2017 at 7:26 PM, WalledSonic said:

I had the same problem with windshield flex, but worse since my car is much cheaper than yours, and built less rigid.  Think of the windshield and the roof (especially with a sunroof) to be the least supported part of the car.  This is why theres so much flex.

I recommend installing extra metal on the windshield beam.  I installed rivet-nuts in my beam and attached a metal brace, which reduced flex tremendously.  I ended up welding a 'stripper pole' to that brace since my flex was out of control and started breaking the edges of the windshield.  You may not need a pole, I bet some supporting metal on the beam will help.

IMG_0370.jpg

I have also seen some people epoxy some metal into place with good results.  Make sure you address the problem before it gets worse.  If the spot welds start breaking, your problem will get expensive fast.  Best of luck!

im really glad i do not have a sunroof as they tend to rattle and make the roof itself weaker but a m8 of mine has a e39 touring and his roof flexes alot more than mine but his windshield is not moving at all, think the roof absorbs most of the energy going into the roof. in the middle of my roof where his roof flexes mine is totaly still, only in the front support of the roof and just a smidge in the back that flexes. thats why ive been holding of the deadening of the roof because it probably wont help with my numbers but i did it to try an reduce window flex. could probably remove the mirror since its really heavy it would probably help some but i dont want to loose the rain sensor and aslong as im not walled id like to have the mirror

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

we actually had some nice weather where i live last week so i started to rub down and polish the car, got a quite nice result for a 18 year old car with the same paint as it came from the factory with. it has some beauty marks but not something im going to be doing anything about since im only going to keep the car for about a year longer before i get a new one.

0JbCF9B.jpgthe

there is quite abit of dried of residue that the pad throws on the car, this dor was actually scratched up pretty bad in the middle of the door but you cant really see it on this picture and you can barerly see it now after its been polished, it was very ugly before but i put some paint in it and rubbed it down and then polished it. 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 374 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online



×
×
  • Create New...