No midbass with new speakers

[reedal]

When you adjusted the crossover on your amp, tell me the EXACT frequency you set it to.

You can't, because it simply says 45hz - 4500hz on the amp. Which means that when you turned the HPF up, you turned it up past the crossover designed to work with those speakers.

Now, tell me how you used your DMM to see the distortion point on that amp when you were adjusting your gain with a sine wave that you don't even know what the attenuation level was? You can't. Because your DMM doesn't do that. Turn your filter off, and turn your gain down until you know your maximum clean point at -5dB. And not max clean according to your ear. Max clean according to a tool that reads/shows distortion. The crackling went away when you turned the filter up because you're trying to drive them past what they can handle, and by turning the filter up, you attenuated the frequencies that are are drawing the most of your dirty power because they have less impedance rise, not because the passive crossover is built too low.

[shogen]

my ears are my only tool.... turn HU volume up to a point you know you won't ever go (not max) with the gain all the way down (counterclock wise I believe) ... lets says 50 out of 62 since thats like a magic number for some.... then slowly turn up the gain and once you ear that sound give gain down a few notches for safety

[Irocthestreetz]

When you adjusted the crossover on your amp, tell me the EXACT frequency you set it to.

You can't, because it simply says 45hz - 4500hz on the amp. Which means that when you turned the HPF up, you turned it up past the crossover designed to work with those speakers.

Now, tell me how you used your DMM to see the distortion point on that amp when you were adjusting your gain with a sine wave that you don't even know what the attenuation level was? You can't. Because your DMM doesn't do that. Turn your filter off, and turn your gain down until you know your maximum clean point at -5dB. And not max clean according to your ear. Max clean according to a tool that reads/shows distortion. The crackling went away when you turned the filter up because you're trying to drive them past what they can handle, and by turning the filter up, you attenuated the frequencies that are are drawing the most of your dirty power because they have less impedance rise, not because the passive crossover is built too low.

That's a dossapointment then as its all still way to quite with the 2300wrms on the 15. Maybe I should put the pa's up front with the tweeters for the extra volume and the component mids in back with the rear gain down to let me set them as low as I can. Is that a bad idea?

[ShadeTreeMechanic]

When you adjusted the crossover on your amp, tell me the EXACT frequency you set it to.

You can't, because it simply says 45hz - 4500hz on the amp. Which means that when you turned the HPF up, you turned it up past the crossover designed to work with those speakers.

Now, tell me how you used your DMM to see the distortion point on that amp when you were adjusting your gain with a sine wave that you don't even know what the attenuation level was? You can't. Because your DMM doesn't do that. Turn your filter off, and turn your gain down until you know your maximum clean point at -5dB. And not max clean according to your ear. Max clean according to a tool that reads/shows distortion. The crackling went away when you turned the filter up because you're trying to drive them past what they can handle, and by turning the filter up, you attenuated the frequencies that are are drawing the most of your dirty power because they have less impedance rise, not because the passive crossover is built too low.

That's a dossapointment then as its all still way to quite with the 2300wrms on the 15. Maybe I should put the pa's up front with the tweeters for the extra volume and the component mids in back with the rear gain down to let me set them as low as I can. Is that a bad idea?

That would be one way to do it. Trying to get it all to balance is the key. If you are turning it up to max and it sounds like its making funny noises then you are kicking its butt. The only thing you can do at that point is turn it down a little. If you like the way it sounds at half volume but it is not loud enough then add to your system by duplicating what you have until it is loud enough. If you go with another single set of speakers trying to do the same thing, then you run the risk that they wont sound the same as what you have now and that can be ok too (i have never heard what the PA style sound like I think they are just loud, maybe some one who knows can chime in).

A lot of people are in this boat too, but this is the fun part.

[reedal]

That's a dossapointment then as its all still way to quite with the 2300wrms on the 15. Maybe I should put the pa's up front with the tweeters for the extra volume and the component mids in back with the rear gain down to let me set them as low as I can. Is that a bad idea?

Where are you putting the tweets and mids? Stock locations?

[kirill007]

If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets.

What would a oscope of DD-1 tell him that he doesn't notice yet at the moment?

The speakers are being driven too hard, so turn down the gain or turn up the crossover if it's the midbass.

The reason why you had great midbass and not anymore with different components is that it was designed around those stock speakers.

Considering he said he's using a DMM to set his gains, an oscope or DD-1 will tell him more than what he's guessing at. And he obviously doesn't realize his speakers are being driven too hard if he didn't turn the gain down until it stopped when he started hearing the crackling.

What if his DD-1 or Oscope says he needs to turn the gains up?

What he is describing sounds a lot more like overpowering/wrong crossover frequency for the amount of power.

Crackling= usually means that the driver is at the end of it's travel.

[reedal]

If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets.

What would a oscope of DD-1 tell him that he doesn't notice yet at the moment?

The speakers are being driven too hard, so turn down the gain or turn up the crossover if it's the midbass.

The reason why you had great midbass and not anymore with different components is that it was designed around those stock speakers.

Considering he said he's using a DMM to set his gains, an oscope or DD-1 will tell him more than what he's guessing at. And he obviously doesn't realize his speakers are being driven too hard if he didn't turn the gain down until it stopped when he started hearing the crackling.

What if his DD-1 or Oscope says he needs to turn the gains up?

What he is describing sounds a lot more like overpowering/wrong crossover frequency for the amount of power.

Crackling= usually means that the driver is at the end of it's travel.

I assure you, they can take the 90.4 gain set max clean to 1khz@-5dB, actively crossed at 63hz -24dB/oct. His settings are wrong, and by not guessing what his gain is set at with a tone he doesn't even know what it is, he will have a better experience. Ask me how I know. I have them. I did it. I changed to the PA's because the comps weren't keeping up in my opinion.

[Irocthestreetz]

Started putting in the new wire for the door speakers haven't got to tune the amp though, flipping on the full pass I can see the cone moving but it crackles at high volume so hopefully I can just mess with the lpf and get it started pumping a little bass without any crackling.

[Irocthestreetz]

If you're using the crossovers that came with the component set, then you have no need to use the amplifiers built-in crossover or HU's. If you're getting crackling from it, turn the gain down a bit if you're not using an oscope or DD-1 or other distortion detector, set the amp to full-pass, (I ran those components active crossed at 63hz 24dB/oct, gain set to -5dB with no issues with midbass or crackling), and it should level out. But you should isolate the crackling to either the mid or tweeter. If it's the tweeter, there should be a variable attenuator on the crossover to lower the output reaching the tweets.

What would a oscope of DD-1 tell him that he doesn't notice yet at the moment?

The speakers are being driven too hard, so turn down the gain or turn up the crossover if it's the midbass.

The reason why you had great midbass and not anymore with different components is that it was designed around those stock speakers.

Considering he said he's using a DMM to set his gains, an oscope or DD-1 will tell him more than what he's guessing at. And he obviously doesn't realize his speakers are being driven too hard if he didn't turn the gain down until it stopped when he started hearing the crackling.

What if his DD-1 or Oscope says he needs to turn the gains up?

What he is describing sounds a lot more like overpowering/wrong crossover frequency for the amount of power.

Crackling= usually means that the driver is at the end of it's travel.

I assure you, they can take the 90.4 gain set max clean to 1khz@-5dB, actively crossed at 63hz -24dB/oct. His settings are wrong, and by not guessing what his gain is set at with a tone he doesn't even know what it is, he will have a better experience. Ask me how I know. I have them. I did it. I changed to the PA's because the comps weren't keeping up in my opinion.

How do you turn off the crossovers on he q490? I'd like to use my headunit as I can fine tune the filters better and set the slope to what I want...which I have no idea what it should be set at though.

[Irocthestreetz]

That's a dossapointment then as its all still way to quite with the 2300wrms on the 15. Maybe I should put the pa's up front with the tweeters for the extra volume and the component mids in back with the rear gain down to let me set them as low as I can. Is that a bad idea?

Where are you putting the tweets and mids? Stock locations?

Yeah, had to fabricate the tweeter housing a bit but I got it to work