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Need help with big 3 Upgrade


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So i bought 0 gauge big 3 kit from xs power 100% ofc. Im using the battery that came in my 2001 Tahoe (not factory). I wired everything up almost exactly as steve meade did in his father & son big 3 upgrade. the only thing i did different was i hand crimped everything and I'm not using an xs power battery. Everything is wired exactly where Steve placed them in the video.

Now the problem i have is that on my factory volt meter every time i go to start it the volt meter is at around 10-12 i then start it and its a slow start about a second slower than usual but the volt meter then jumps back up to 14-16.

Before trying to install this upgrade my volt meter always read around 14 at all times.

I can drive it for 15 minutes (it will read around 14-16) then stop and turn my Tahoe off completely then turn the key to aux and it will read 10-12 and start it up and it goes back up to normal (14-16).

i don't know if i have a bad ground or what I've been trying to figure this out and nothing has came to mind so if anyone could help it would be great thanks in advance.

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My shit was acting crazy too. I ran a ground from the battery to where the red box is bolted to the engine. Do not put the ground in the red box, lol. It's 2 bolts holding that box. Then I ran a ground from the battery to the frame where you see a braided ground strap. It might be 2, one going to the engine and one going to the hood. It doesn't matter which one you use, as long as it's the end on the frame. Just because I had extra wire, I ran another ground from where the red box is at, to the frame where the braided ground strap is at. I just walked in the door and I'm a little drunk so I tried to type this the best I can, lol. I can send you pics in the morning.

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The voltage with the key on and everything else off and not running is the resting voltage of the battery and will be slightly over 12v if its charged. 14V and over is only when charging. What kind of crimper did you use?

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

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unless you removed factory wires, have a factory clamp ring for the charging or left something loose/dirty it should never give you worse results only better and to the normal human you will not see anything better if you are not running upgraded alts/bats.... the DMM can point you in the direction to prove gained performance.... engine off directly after a 10min drive should yeild a minimum of 12.5ish and this is with a weak battery.... resting voltage needs something like 8 hours of rest at 70F to be correct and a pretty good battery should read between 12.5-12.8...... if things were not different from doing the big 3 I would say grab a $1.99 walmart hydrometer and check your 6 cells because you might have a couple under 50%..... my last battery read 12.2 minutes after engine shut down and out of the 6 cells 2 were at 25%, 2 at 50% and 2 at 75%..... with winter just a few weeks away at the time I bought a new battery with out load testing the other but this is the only real way to test a batterys condition

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unless you removed factory wires, have a factory clamp ring for the charging or left something loose/dirty it should never give you worse results only better and to the normal human you will not see anything better if you are not running upgraded alts/bats.... the DMM can point you in the direction to prove gained performance.... engine off directly after a 10min drive should yeild a minimum of 12.5ish and this is with a weak battery.... resting voltage needs something like 8 hours of rest at 70F to be correct and a pretty good battery should read between 12.5-12.8...... if things were not different from doing the big 3 I would say grab a $1.99 walmart hydrometer and check your 6 cells because you might have a couple under 50%..... my last battery read 12.2 minutes after engine shut down and out of the 6 cells 2 were at 25%, 2 at 50% and 2 at 75%..... with winter just a few weeks away at the time I bought a new battery with out load testing the other but this is the only real way to test a batterys condition

So it might be my battery? The battery was fine before this upgrade

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The voltage with the key on and everything else off and not running is the resting voltage of the battery and will be slightly over 12v if its charged. 14V and over is only when charging. What kind of crimper did you use?

I used crimping vise grips probably not the best decision but all I had. I also used solder to hold them in place.

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check voltage at battery while cranking should not drop below 9v for starting duty. if the battery is at 12v when cranking and it cranks slow then you have a bad connection.

91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco)

250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon)

G65 AGM Up Front  / Two G31 AGM in Back

Pioneer 80PRS

CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage

CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill

FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon)

Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon)

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