Raw drivers

[reedal]

Easily with just the three, yes. But it'd be much more fun to build the five way and test and tune and test and tune over and over again to find the perfect placement for each driver to have the sounds I want coming from the direction I want angled how I want. That's the way I look at it. Don't think I'm just jumping out to do this. There is a lot more to be done inbetween now and then, probably two to three years before I even have a feasible list of drivers I feel would be suited. Much more of my own research and learning is to be done. This thread is simply to touch the waters of what others consider when looking into raw drivers.

[reedal]

Remember the power distribution of normal music. If you run a 100W signal to a 3Khz crossover only 15W would go to the tweeter.

On top of that: normal music has at least 10dB of crestfactor. Taking all that in account your little '35W tweeter' can keep up with a 2300W amp.

At least, thermal-wise that is, also assuming infinite filter slopes. Still, don't worry too much about those numbers.

But the power would not be dissipated to a crossover, as the amplification takes place after the filter. Understandably, speaker impedance would not allow the full clean power of the amplifier to ever be seen, but at the speakers lowest reactive impedance, that's when it sees the most power. So on the chance that I do adjust the gain on the amp powering the speakers with the least RMS, at most I would do a -2.5dB overlap.

[lutkeveld]

If you filter active: yes, there is (almost) no power wasted in the crossover.

However, power distribution is still the same. For every 100W the woofer needs, the tweeter would only need 15W (at 3kHz, theoretically).

That assumes same sensivity and you wanting to keep the response flat. If you max out the voltage on the rails of both amps: yes the tweeter would burn out.

But that's the beauty of bi-amping, you can just lower the voltage rail (weaker amp / lower gain) instead of burning it up in resistors.

[aculous]

(sub-bass <60, 8"mid-bass 60 - ~300, 5" or 6" mid-range ~300 - ~1.5k, 3" or 4" full range 1.5k - ~6k, and tweets for 6k+.

You can do whatever, in fact I will help you, but I would stick to the simplest setup. 2-way then if there are dips or you need fill in a freq. range then move up to a 3-way. 5-way is a thing of the 70s and 80s which was not a good idea...IMO...but whatever I am wrong all the time so fuck it.

Keep 60hz-5khz as clean as possible, keep crossovers out of the vocal range.

Lets do this. But only if you run a grill like that. "Whatchu know about vented dustcaps?"

[reedal]

Bro, I think my grandma still has that cabinet.....

[reedal]

But for real, I know small and simple is the easiest and best way to go. But I will still attempt the 5-way at some point. Right now I've been two way active for a year on budget friendly speakers, used components of two different brands/manufacturers, and now I'm on PA's, which I like due to the level of output. it's nice, I like to play with it because some days everything sounds just right, other days it doesn't depending on the weather. The worst is having a passenger because with both the tweeter and mid in the door, it completely loses the passenger side because of their legs. And then when they're gone and I'm with me myself and I, I catch that the T/A is off, so I mess with it, and I've come to the conclusion that it's time to put the tweets on axis. Hence the rebuild of my mids and highs being in process once it warms up.

[reedal]

If you filter active: yes, there is (almost) no power wasted in the crossover.

However, power distribution is still the same. For every 100W the woofer needs, the tweeter would only need 15W (at 3kHz, theoretically).

That assumes same sensivity and you wanting to keep the response flat. If you max out the voltage on the rails of both amps: yes the tweeter would burn out.

But that's the beauty of bi-amping, you can just lower the voltage rail (weaker amp / lower gain) instead of burning it up in resistors.

Now I see what you're saying. I didn't realize you meant the power going to the woofer AND the tweeter, I thought you meant only the tweet. But no, I will not give the tweeters much power at all, even if they're able to take 600w, I would only feed them what I need for them to mix in smoothly with the rest of the speakers/subs. My ears and bright/harsh tweets do not mix. Less power on those high notes the better in my opinion.

[aculous]

But for real, I know small and simple is the easiest and best way to go. But I will still attempt the 5-way at some point. Right now I've been two way active for a year on budget friendly speakers, used components of two different brands/manufacturers, and now I'm on PA's, which I like due to the level of output. it's nice, I like to play with it because some days everything sounds just right, other days it doesn't depending on the weather. The worst is having a passenger because with both the tweeter and mid in the door, it completely loses the passenger side because of their legs. And then when they're gone and I'm with me myself and I, I catch that the T/A is off, so I mess with it, and I've come to the conclusion that it's time to put the tweets on axis. Hence the rebuild of my mids and highs being in process once it warms up.

I would run tweeter/mid off the a pillar then, maybe multiple mids and a bass driver in the kick. Check out http://www.teamaudionutz.com/tutorial/4/Kick_Panel_Fabrication the guy goes over some interesting stuff about soft dome tweeters and on axis placement.

[White Lightning]

If you can find a tweeter that can play comfortable down to 2000 htz, you would basically have no need for a dedicated small order midrange (2.5" to 4") driver.

Most of those are kinda large and would look really good "stand alone" on axis up on the A Pilars or angled on the dash.

Not brand boasting here ... But I'd bet that if you could find a pair old school Blues Car Audio tweeters or something similar ... You might just be in the range you are looking for.

I really wish I had mine back ... They'd be going in the Ford tomorrow.

Don't get me wrong, I love the tweeters I have now ... But they are a perfect match to my 5.25" drivers and just wouldn't want to break up the team if I didn't have a place for the midranges ...

As for the time alignment thing ... I agree with you brother.

This is why when you demo most Sound Quality vehicles ... You are usually the only one in the vehicle.

Which is why I love having everything up and out on the dash if possible ...

[gckless]

While you may be able to properly cross all those drivers by splitting up your high channel off the 80PRS, you won't be able to individually time align them, which is something you need to remember and plan for. If you're not doing a processor, you need to figure that out during the install. If you just plan on adding one later, then it's not a huge deal right now, but if you don't you need to tailor the path length between the two to your ear. Crossovers are only half the battle. You need to make it sound good after that too.

You said that it's time to put the tweeters on-axis; why do you say that?

Also, why do you turn off T/A for passengers? Most will never notice the difference if you don't tell them.

But you do need to get the tweeters higher, or possibly the kick. Door is generally no good. If you want three way, then get the tweeters and mids in the A pillar. Or sail panels could work too.

Like was mentioned, I think you can get away with a large format tweeter and a good 6.5-8" driver, and you would be better off as you can properly T/A them.