ANYTHING ELSE NEEDED!?!?!

[RyanRosier]

So my buddy found out he needed 2500 watts for his SSX 15" instead of the 500 a TE needs. So we went and Ordered a Audioque 2200.1 for this. Now I think it should still go under the driver seat or in the floor of the back seat where no one sits because the sub box is in the seat. Now I have a single run of 4 Gauge (becuase like we didn't think he needed anytihn bigger for only 500? Then we pulled the sub and I became so excited for my first real big install.) but his run is so so short. It's a 2014 Dodge Crew cab. And from the battery to the dang floor board in the back is like at the very dang most, 6 feet. That is with some slack as well. SO I mean this is a short as crap run. I noticed the amp now online after ordering had 1/0 wire in it. Does this wire have 1/0 inputs? If not then the guy was using reducers I guess, but what I'm asking, is this 4 Gauge gonna cut it? It's OFC Sky High, and I've got some Tinned OFC 4 AWG from RF if that would work rather than this, and is he gonna have to get a different batt or a second one? and/or a diff alt? It's a Cummins so I don't know what his charging system is and whether or not he has the Factory High output (if they even put them on there) and since it's iced here I wont see the guy for another 3 days or so. He has no experience with any of this, he's just "heres my money and spend it how it needs to be to be loud." So he isnt gonna be able to look anything up and firgure ANYTHING out on his own if you get what I mean.

[bdog]

Yes your going to want to install 0 gauge unless you don't care if you don't get much power out of the amp or you don't care if the amp blows or catches fire.

[Bayuk89]

I think that 4 ga SHCA wire is rated 150-175 amps. If u keep it i would install 120 amp ANL fuse, u always fuse LESS than what the wire is rated for because that 120 amp fuse might last 5 seconds or 5 minutes @ 120 or MORE amps before it pops and u dont want ur wire to fry before fuse.

I agree with bdog, use 1/0 SHCA or u can use 1/0 welding cable. I use 2 ga welding cable for my 1500 watt amp and i like welding cable over car audio wire because in my mind the jacket on welding cable is more resistive to weather, heat, chemicals and such because they have to be rated to comerical specs. They are certified to withstand X amount of heat, current and voltage to be compliant. So car audio wire or welding wire would do just fine.

[RyanRosier]

Yes your going to want to install 0 gauge unless you don't care if you don't get much power out of the amp or you don't care if the amp blows or catches fire.

Okay, I'm not disagreeing with you though, but our shop is ran off 2 Gauge. Not 2/0. We have 3 220 running at all times during the day and the power wire is a single 12 Gauge run of a solid copper strand. Why the heck do amps and stuff need such big wire when they've got a a 2-3k strand count of OFC. And my run is less than 6 feet? It doesn't make sense to me because electricity travels over the wire and not through it. So why does it need to be so big..?

[RyanRosier]

I think that 4 ga SHCA wire is rated 150-175 amps. If u keep it i would install 120 amp ANL fuse, u always fuse LESS than what the wire is rated for because that 120 amp fuse might last 5 seconds or 5 minutes @ 120 or MORE amps before it pops and u dont want ur wire to fry before fuse.

I agree with bdog, use 1/0 SHCA or u can use 1/0 welding cable. I use 2 ga welding cable for my 1500 watt amp and i like welding cable over car audio wire because in my mind the jacket on welding cable is more resistive to weather, heat, chemicals and such because they have to be rated to comerical specs. They are certified to withstand X amount of heat, current and voltage to be compliant. So car audio wire or welding wire would do just fine.

Okay so what about me 200 Amp draw from the amp, if it draws 200 wouldn't it keep popping the 120? According to their website (Audioque) it needs an external 200 Fuse. And according to Crutchfield, by their math at 2,200 Watts x 2 / 13.8 is sitting at a nice current draw in ampheres of 308. So.. Like what the heck.. Once you start getting into big numbers do things not always tend to apply? My dad told me not to always base everything off of math, it's a really good starting place but where you really see results is actually hooking the stuff up and testing it. Is that starting to hold true here?

[reedal]

Don't go by that crutch field chart. The external fuse rating is a safety recommendation that is meant to protect the amp and your wire from internal shorts, but the likely hood of you ever pulling 200A through to that amp is slim. Just buy the SHCA OFC 1/0 amp wiring kit, and cut the power wire to the length you need (it's 17ft to start with, put a 200A fuse on it, and you probably won't need more than 10ft of that wire. Using the 1/0 will allow for more efficient current flow than the 4ga will. Also, if he doesn't have it already, do the big three. When doing it, don't remove any OEM wiring, just add to it. If you need a tutorial, there is one on here.

Edit: also, the SHCA OFC 1/0 already being installed for your power wire will leave you room for upgraded power amplifiers in the future. It's rated for 350A for a 20ft length run

[Skullz]

Ryan, please do not confuse A/C with D/C as the wire size really does matter, D/C current runs through the entire length of the wire unlike A/C.

https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLNMbsRIxVU1IWx89WeTUgAUTNhqgjJlew

[Bayuk89]

I think that 4 ga SHCA wire is rated 150-175 amps. If u keep it i would install 120 amp ANL fuse, u always fuse LESS than what the wire is rated for because that 120 amp fuse might last 5 seconds or 5 minutes @ 120 or MORE amps before it pops and u dont want ur wire to fry before fuse.

I agree with bdog, use 1/0 SHCA or u can use 1/0 welding cable. I use 2 ga welding cable for my 1500 watt amp and i like welding cable over car audio wire because in my mind the jacket on welding cable is more resistive to weather, heat, chemicals and such because they have to be rated to comerical specs. They are certified to withstand X amount of heat, current and voltage to be compliant. So car audio wire or welding wire would do just fine.

Okay so what about me 200 Amp draw from the amp, if it draws 200 wouldn't it keep popping the 120? According to their website (Audioque) it needs an external 200 Fuse. And according to Crutchfield, by their math at 2,200 Watts x 2 / 13.8 is sitting at a nice current draw in ampheres of 308. So.. Like what the heck.. Once you start getting into big numbers do things not always tend to apply? My dad told me not to always base everything off of math, it's a really good starting place but where you really see results is actually hooking the stuff up and testing it. Is that starting to hold true here?

Hey ryan, the math ur doing for current draw isnt a "strong" factor that should be practice. The ONLY way i can honesty see that 2200 watt amp pull 308 amps is if the amp shorted out but then the audioque is externally fused @ 200 amps so it there again it being fused for 200 amps it DOESNT pull 308 amps.......

Plus even if u wanted to do the math, ur math is wrong.... its 2200 watt amp @ 1 ohm, its only 2200 × 2 when STRAPPED so to do the math you were trying to do is 2200 watts ÷ 13.8 volts = 159 current draw times that by .75 (efficentcy) now u have a draw of 119 amps...... but like we said thats NOT a strong practice because its only a "ballpark guess" because ur not always drawing that 119 amp math thats done the numbers bounce all over when listening to music.

You are correct on current flow it travels over the wire not through it.

my opinion that 4 ga will be ok for the short run, u need to compair the distance traveled and current to help decide on wire size.

but like reedal said using 1/0 will be best for future builds and offer better current flow to the amp

if the amp is fused for 200 i would use a 175 under the hood it never pops at exact number it needs to reach more than fuse rating and i wouldnt wanna wait to see if the amp survies the surge or short because even tho its 200 fuse it might take 250-300 to make it pop..... just my opinion

[RyanRosier]

I think that 4 ga SHCA wire is rated 150-175 amps. If u keep it i would install 120 amp ANL fuse, u always fuse LESS than what the wire is rated for because that 120 amp fuse might last 5 seconds or 5 minutes @ 120 or MORE amps before it pops and u dont want ur wire to fry before fuse.

I agree with bdog, use 1/0 SHCA or u can use 1/0 welding cable. I use 2 ga welding cable for my 1500 watt amp and i like welding cable over car audio wire because in my mind the jacket on welding cable is more resistive to weather, heat, chemicals and such because they have to be rated to comerical specs. They are certified to withstand X amount of heat, current and voltage to be compliant. So car audio wire or welding wire would do just fine.

Okay so what about me 200 Amp draw from the amp, if it draws 200 wouldn't it keep popping the 120? According to their website (Audioque) it needs an external 200 Fuse. And according to Crutchfield, by their math at 2,200 Watts x 2 / 13.8 is sitting at a nice current draw in ampheres of 308. So.. Like what the heck.. Once you start getting into big numbers do things not always tend to apply? My dad told me not to always base everything off of math, it's a really good starting place but where you really see results is actually hooking the stuff up and testing it. Is that starting to hold true here?

Hey ryan, the math ur doing for current draw isnt a "strong" factor that should be practice. The ONLY way i can honesty see that 2200 watt amp pull 308 amps is if the amp shorted out but then the audioque is externally fused @ 200 amps so it there again it being fused for 200 amps it DOESNT pull 308 amps.......

Plus even if u wanted to do the math, ur math is wrong.... its 2200 watt amp @ 1 ohm, its only 2200 × 2 when STRAPPED so to do the math you were trying to do is 2200 watts ÷ 13.8 volts = 159 current draw times that by .75 (efficentcy) now u have a draw of 119 amps...... but like we said thats NOT a strong practice because its only a "ballpark guess" because ur not always drawing that 119 amp math thats done the numbers bounce all over when listening to music.

You are correct on current flow it travels over the wire not through it.

my opinion that 4 ga will be ok for the short run, u need to compair the distance traveled and current to help decide on wire size.

but like reedal said using 1/0 will be best for future builds and offer better current flow to the amp

if the amp is fused for 200 i would use a 175 under the hood it never pops at exact number it needs to reach more than fuse rating and i wouldnt wanna wait to see if the amp survies the surge or short because even tho its 200 fuse it might take 250-300 to make it pop..... just my opinion

So if I popped a 120 ANL in there think it'd pop? I think the biggest fuse I've got on hand is a 120. But need to order a...? some 175's? I need to order a ANL holdr cause all I got is AGU 100's and the AGU holder. If we ran it like 1/4-1/2 gain real low and didn't drive it could the 100 work till the other comes in? And see I know how to do the math you did there, how to find an amps "rms" is what I used it for. Take the amps fusing, multiply by 13.8 then multiply by the amps supposed or guessed efficency. Like I don't want a math debate lol I know what you said is correct, I was just throwing that ^ out there as well so you could see what else I've done with math. That was just crutchfields chart for "How to choose the right wire gauge"

[Bayuk89]

I tell ya man its all guess work, would it could it ? Times your amplifier fuses by system voltage would get u an idea what it COULD do. Ur system voltage is not always 13.8 volts and also ur music changes ur amp demands so the current it draws fluctuates with bass notes. My 1500 watt amp has an external 200 amp ANL fuse but my battery fuse is only a 100 amp MAXI. (Waiting for my 150 anl fuse and holder) and even full tilt for my 40 minute commute it hasnt blown. I listen to ALOT of bass patrol, bass tronics and such and their songs are in the 25-40 HZ range. Effecientcy is a big part too one amp might need 50 amps to push 2200 watts and another amp might need 70 amps to push 2200 watts. But like i said ur RMS is gonna be all over ur never gonna be 2200 all the time theres alot of science and math behind these amps. Ur 6 foot run of 4 ga fused at 100 amp should be just fine. I would use ANL as first choice and if not next is mini ANL then MAXI i never use the glass fuses on my stuff. I personally use welding cable, it cheaper and it has ROHS and other industral ratings to ensure this cable is compliant for industrial use. ALOT of guys on here use welding cable ALOT of guys here use sky high and other great brands. Your 4 ga sky high is rated UPTO 175 amps @ 25 feet (accordibg to their website) My 2 gauge welding cable is rated 400 amps @ 25' 240 amps @ 50' and 120 amps @ 100' thats why i use welding cable because it meets industrial standards and its certified. Look it up CCI royal excelence welding cable its like $1.90 a foot on ebay.