Amplifier heat?

[3vil]

No. If in that scenario the ohm load between a single sub and 2 subs were the same, the amp won't care. 1 sub, 2 subs, 100 subs, the amp is going to put out the same power across the board.

[hdorre]

but i digest

*digress?

[ChevyBoy95]

Generally AB class amplifiers (generally your mids/highs amp) run warm to hot. As long as it is wire to the correct load and isnt going into thermal protect it is fine.

[reedal]

More subs, more load for it to push. Also same question above^, model of amp and subs, and exactly how you have them wired will help. If it's a 2 channel amp and you're bridging, it'll probably overheat @ 4 ohms depending what wattage the subs need.

No. The number of subs does not change the output of the amp at a given ohm load. And no to "what wattage the subs need". That also does not dictate output or heat.

OP, It's an A/B amplifier, so it's inefficient and will produce more heat than a class D. The heat is wasted energy. What resistance you're wired to, that is important. The lower the nominal resistance, the more inefficient the amplifier will be. Also, you started at step one, which is your bass/gain knob. Do you know which it is? If you're clipping the signal at all (with either that knob or the actual gain potentiometer on the amp) that will also cause the amplifier to be excessively hot compared to how it is under normal conditions on a clean signal at the rated ohm load.

For example: One 1000 watt sub on a 1000 watt amp, add another 1000 watt sub = amp overload/over heat when turned up. Not sure exactly where you're coming from. I never said the amp would change output anywhere in my comment, so not sure where you got that from. Also yes, knowing what kind of subs/wattage, and amp/wattage DOES matter. You then went on to explaining exactly what I said, just in a different way, contradicting yourself. I've had subs running on a 2 channel a/b amp before with no heat issues, just gotta have more amp than sub.

No, the subs RMS has no play in what the amplifier does. A sub does not say "hey, I'm rated for 1000 watts, so now you have to work harder." The only thing the amp knows is the nominal resistance the subwoofers are wired to. THAT decides the OUTPUT of the amp, and the lower that number is, the more the amp outputs (even if not much), therefore the more heat the amplifier creates due to inefficiency. That is why I mentioned output in response to telling you why you're wrong. Yes, having more amp than sub will aid in keeping the amp cool, so you got that right, but even if he had a pair of Team subs rated for XXXX watts, and that amp only put out 300w max clean when bridged, the amp will not overheat, or even be excessively hot. It when you show the amp a low load, and clip the signal. But if you want to think sub RMS makes any kind of difference in amplifier efficiency, then go ahead. I'm not going to argue that point any further.

OP, as stated, make sure the final impedance the amplifier sees is within specs, and make sure you have your amplifier gain set properly. I say ditch the knob you've been using, and grab the PAC LC-1 which is for sure not a bass knob, but a gain knob.

[Chris Braun]

More subs, more load for it to push. Also same question above^, model of amp and subs, and exactly how you have them wired will help. If it's a 2 channel amp and you're bridging, it'll probably overheat @ 4 ohms depending what wattage the subs need.

No. The number of subs does not change the output of the amp at a given ohm load. And no to "what wattage the subs need". That also does not dictate output or heat.

OP, It's an A/B amplifier, so it's inefficient and will produce more heat than a class D. The heat is wasted energy. What resistance you're wired to, that is important. The lower the nominal resistance, the more inefficient the amplifier will be. Also, you started at step one, which is your bass/gain knob. Do you know which it is? If you're clipping the signal at all (with either that knob or the actual gain potentiometer on the amp) that will also cause the amplifier to be excessively hot compared to how it is under normal conditions on a clean signal at the rated ohm load.

For example: One 1000 watt sub on a 1000 watt amp, add another 1000 watt sub = amp overload/over heat when turned up. Not sure exactly where you're coming from. I never said the amp would change output anywhere in my comment, so not sure where you got that from. Also yes, knowing what kind of subs/wattage, and amp/wattage DOES matter. You then went on to explaining exactly what I said, just in a different way, contradicting yourself. I've had subs running on a 2 channel a/b amp before with no heat issues, just gotta have more amp than sub.

No, the subs RMS has no play in what the amplifier does. A sub does not say "hey, I'm rated for 1000 watts, so now you have to work harder." The only thing the amp knows is the nominal resistance the subwoofers are wired to. THAT decides the OUTPUT of the amp, and the lower that number is, the more the amp outputs (even if not much), therefore the more heat the amplifier creates due to inefficiency. That is why I mentioned output in response to telling you why you're wrong. Yes, having more amp than sub will aid in keeping the amp cool, so you got that right, but even if he had a pair of Team subs rated for XXXX watts, and that amp only put out 300w max clean when bridged, the amp will not overheat, or even be excessively hot. It when you show the amp a low load, and clip the signal. But if you want to think sub RMS makes any kind of difference in amplifier efficiency, then go ahead. I'm not going to argue that point any further.

OP, as stated, make sure the final impedance the amplifier sees is within specs, and make sure you have your amplifier gain set properly. I say ditch the knob you've been using, and grab the PAC LC-1 which is for sure not a bass knob, but a gain knob.

Ok, so you're saying a 10,000w sub OR a stiff ass whatever RMS rock hard unmovable sub WON'T put strain on a 300w amp when trying to crank it clipping an all? Won't the amp clip sooner with said load? I know what you're saying, and sorry I did explain my side kind of wrong, it was getting late lol. Output and load on the amp won't strain the amp if it's not clipping, yes I see what you're saying. What I was saying is he added another sub, and is trying to push it to sound twice as loud and most likely clipping the amp or has it wired up wrong which is causing the overheating.

[x infektid x]

only if he has an anp rated at 4 ohm bridged and he ad another sub to make it 2 ohms will the amp overheat. stiffness of the sub makes no difference to the amp. 1000 watt sub with a 300 watt amp IS OK! but issue comes when it clips.

amp sees a load not wattage

4 ohm bridged on 2 ohm sub(s) will strain it

clipping comes from sub being over driven and also from amp being over driven on the input stage.

stiff sub WILL still move BUT by design , its not made for low power due to its stiff design to take more power. will sound fine till amp or it clips.

last one

any amp will work with any sub and the opposite. 1000 watt sub and 100 watt amp ok- 1000 watt amp and 100 watt sub ok ( dont do the last ) ! lol

[Bayuk89]

Also note that u stated u measured ur sub impedance and showed 5.7 ohms or something like that ? Make sure ur speaker is disconnected from ur amp while ur measuring inpedance and also u might have over heated ur coil because most subs are usually .2-.5 of their impeadence and urs is 1.7 MORE. My DVC 4ohm subs read 3.7 ohms each coil u might have an issue if ur impeadance is that high.

If it was my subs i would take them out of the box disconnect the wires and measure impedance of each coil. Set the subwoofer on its magnet and use ur DMM on OHMS setting and measure the impeadence. Ur 4ohm coils should read around 3.6-4.6 if its more than that look at ur coil it might be burnt....

[Bayuk89]

The bass gain knob is sadly my outline converter on another sad note I had someone install it. Which they did a clean job and it now only serves as a converter. However my amplifier is a Pioneer GM-A5602 and the subwoofer is also Pioneer TS-W3003D4 the woofer reads 5.6 ohms at the ends of the wires where it will connect to the amplifier. I still have not been able to tell what this amp wants as far as ohms. I am almost certain that the main cause of the heat I experienced was do to the improper gain setting and also the difference in wiring lengths etc. between the two subwoofers.

U can wire ur DVC subs positive to positive negative to negative which gives a 2 ohm load for EACH subwoofer, u have a 2 channel amp and its ok for 2ohm each channel. Look up a subwoofer wiring diagram on crutchfield website if u need pictures.

Gain knob isnt a volume knob, not knowing how to set it COULD smoke the subs and amp in less than a week. ASSUMING u dont have a DD-1 look up on google how to set amp gains with a DMM that will get u to a "safer" setting than where u are currently. But spending $150 on a DD-1 is gonna be the BEST option.

Walmart sells alot of good things but honestly if u do a little research saving an extra $100 you could have bought something that will best suite what u wanna do.

My first system was two GM-5400 amps powering two 12" kfcw3012 subs my entire build was from walmart, it was good (i thought) but after i got support from other audio heads i sold that system and went on to alpine and infinity equipment and so forth. Google is ur best friend when it comes to research and becareful who u let work on ur car because everyone claims to be an "expert" ur better off saving the head ache and taking the pride of doing it urself IMO research research research then buy and install

[Chris Braun]

only if he has an anp rated at 4 ohm bridged and he ad another sub to make it 2 ohms will the amp overheat. stiffness of the sub makes no difference to the amp. 1000 watt sub with a 300 watt amp IS OK! but issue comes when it clips.

amp sees a load not wattage

4 ohm bridged on 2 ohm sub(s) will strain it

clipping comes from sub being over driven and also from amp being over driven on the input stage.

stiff sub WILL still move BUT by design , its not made for low power due to its stiff design to take more power. will sound fine till amp or it clips.

last one

any amp will work with any sub and the opposite. 1000 watt sub and 100 watt amp ok- 1000 watt amp and 100 watt sub ok ( dont do the last ) ! lol

True, and I do know this haha. I was super tired after work and just wasn't thinking right, my mistake. I just seen he added a sub and immediately thought he's clipping and that's what I was trying to say.

[Jduncan15]

The subs were both in parallel I'm pretty certain. The amp is rated to 900 watts peak and 450 rms for 4 ohms under 1 sub. The subs are rated 600 rms and 2000 peak. It's becoming apparent that I need to get a larger amplifier. Also how or where can I find out what my Amps optimal ohm rating is?