magillaru Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 It's messy and I'd rather make cuts correctly to seal things off vs emptying 20 bottles of foam into my truck. But for the spaces with the roof, it's perfect as long as you're careful. I don't see anything wrong with but use it where it's NEEDED, not to take short cuts. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boom50cal Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 ask yourself, do you want it to be removable, or no? if not, get after it like magillaru. if you want it removable, build a nice and sturdy floor for it to rest on. secure the floor to the cab, frame, whatever, make sure it's secure. Doing it this way will make it a little easier to run cable after the fact, if need be. Batteries can be placed under the false floor. Quick tip, if it's an 04-08 truck, the rear cab vents and the little rubber boot grommet things at the front of the bed nearly line up perfectly. Bring cable down the side of the frame. Battery bank in the bed(toolbox?) and make a few runs into the back of the cab for the amps. Lot easier than running cable through the cab. On 1/4/2013 at 9:31 PM, HatersGonnaHate said: Wow. 184 posts and I think you're a fucking asshole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magillaru Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 ^forgot to mention the can vents.....I mean pre cut power/ground wire holes. I left the vents in but cut out all the little spacers to make one big rectangular hole and still have the plastic to protect the wire. Singer Alternators Team Asshole #anothershittysingerbuild Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boom50cal Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 ^forgot to mention the can vents.....I mean pre cut power/ground wire holes. I left the vents in but cut out all the little spacers to make one big rectangular hole and still have the plastic to protect the wire. I did the same, cut a big hole in the little grommet things and fed the wire through. But I spray foamed my cab vents after I brought cable in I figure I'll never need more than 300a in the cab, so that's all I brought. On 1/4/2013 at 9:31 PM, HatersGonnaHate said: Wow. 184 posts and I think you're a fucking asshole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amart88 Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 Yeah, Spray foam has it's place but it does not like to be removed. My 2005 s10 blazer build. 4 zcon 18's walled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 If you do this right you don't need foam. I have some in my truck to seal the rear off but it should never be visible and it sure as fuck isn't to seal it off completely. Filling voids sure. Sealing your wall no. And for he love of god paln out how you'll trim it in. I see so many walls that start as a big box and no one properly plans how to seal it off. A little pre planning goes a long way I'll take this look Over a wall where someone bolts trim panels to the front of the wall any day. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Miles Mckeehan Posted March 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 Wow thank you all especially with the do NOt parts, and for the pictures. thanks you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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