Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Friends 2008 Shelby Mustang GT w/ Shaker 500


Recommended Posts

Helping a buddy set up a system in his 2008 Shelby GT that currently has the shaker 500. Goal is to pull everything out of the car system wise and replace.

The only caveat he has is wanting to run these Kicker/Shelby replacements for the door 8" speakers.

http://www.shelbystore.com/product-p/ka-8-woofer.htm

No way around it, that is what he wants.

He has Alpine components in his f-450 so he will be doing the same in his mustang.
Looking at the Alpine SPR-60C for the front components and Alpine SPR-60 Coax for the rear deck.

Will be powering them with the Alpine PDX-F4 amp.

Now I can't find much info on the kicker subs. Some say SVC others say DVC. What I did find is they are rated at 200 watts RMS and 400 watts peak at 2 ohm. Again, just don't know the coil setup.
So I would be looking for an amp for these.

The real question after all that is, do I run a 2 channel amp on this so I can have a left/right? Mono would be bad right? Would it be better to get a 2 channel amp for this set up or a 4 channel amp and bridge it to 2 channels. Would bridging a 4 channel amp to 2 channels still give ma a left/right?

These are rated for 20hz to 200hz (doubt they are going that low) so I am guessing cross over to be a larger midbass? (Am I just making up stuff at this point and throwing out lingo or am I even close)

Once the 8 speakers (Front components [4] rear coax [2] and door midbass/subs [2] )in the car are addressed we will add the subs (no idea yet, thinking something sundown).

Can someone even direct me in the right direction on how I would hook up that many amps with varying frequency ranges? Excuse me for the noobish question. I've always done 6 speaker setups plus subs. Basically filling up the 6 channels on the back of a head unit. This just has me scratching my head.

Any and all input would be greatly appreciated. He isn't too worried about the $$$ part so spending a little more to do it right is the only option. (That being said, we could possibly look at higher end components but he seems set, not because of the money, because he has heard these and he knows he likes them)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you don't do anything with those speakers. they have their own separate amp in the vehicle already.

if nothing changes, nothing changes

You don't know what you don't know, till you don't know

Link to comment
Share on other sites

He is replacing those factory shaker 500 speakers with aftermarket kicker replacements. The factory amp is rated between 20 and 40 watts from what I read and the kickers are 200 RMS. He will need adequate power to them.

Head unit is also being replaces with a pioneer avic 4100 so the speakers will need signal and power some how.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have no clue what you are doing I'd suggest just helping him find an installer that is qualified to do the job properly.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have no clue what you are doing I'd suggest just helping him find an installer that is qualified to do the job properly.

I appreciate that. I guess asking for clarification is frowned upon and instead of learning or furthering what I do know it's easier to just pay someone else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Honestly I wouldn't worry about replacing all 8 speakers in the car. I myself have a mustang with 9 speakers, and I'll be dang if I'm replacing all of them when I get ready. My suggestion is to just run a nice component set up front, and if he wants some speakers in the back for rear fill, then put some coaxials in the back. If he doesn't want speakers in the back, he can try a 3 way set up in the front ( or just the 2 way components ), and just the subs in the rear. Whatever he does I would recommend adding amplifiers, and not trying to run them off of the SHAKER amplifier. Adding good quality speakers on that amplifier will get him nowhere IMO.

2007 Ford F-150 Reg. Cab. Flareside
250 Mechman Alternator
Sky High Car Audio Big 3
XS Power D3400
Rockford Fosgate 1/0 amp kit
Rockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcp
Rockford Fosgate T400-4
DC Audio Lvl 4 12"
Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" component
Rockford Fosgate Punch 6x8
Pioneer AVH-P2300DVD
SMD Volt Meter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have no clue what you are doing I'd suggest just helping him find an installer that is qualified to do the job properly.

I appreciate that. I guess asking for clarification is frowned upon and instead of learning or furthering what I do know it's easier to just pay someone else.

He's not trying to be a dick, just saying if its to much to do on your own it might be best to find a installer. Its always good to get opinions of others on here, most of us do all the time. Bounce ideas off one another to come up with the best plan. And many of us have learned the hard way, just dont want others to make same mistakes usually.

We are here to help in any way we can. But seriously, get a deadening plan together. It is soooooo important to prep speaker installs. Makes speakers sound better, quiets the ride, reduces rattles, ect. Be proven you can take a shitty set of speakers and make them sound good with proper deadening and install practices. And a great pair of speaker can sound like shit just thrown in somewhere.

Good luck, keep us posted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Honestly I wouldn't worry about replacing all 8 speakers in the car. I myself have a mustang with 9 speakers, and I'll be dang if I'm replacing all of them when I get ready. My suggestion is to just run a nice component set up front, and if he wants some speakers in the back for rear fill, then put some coaxials in the back. If he doesn't want speakers in the back, he can try a 3 way set up in the front ( or just the 2 way components ), and just the subs in the rear. Whatever he does I would recommend adding amplifiers, and not trying to run them off of the SHAKER amplifier. Adding good quality speakers on that amplifier will get him nowhere IMO.

Thanks. Everything will see new amps and all the Shaker equipment is being removed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have no clue what you are doing I'd suggest just helping him find an installer that is qualified to do the job properly.

I appreciate that. I guess asking for clarification is frowned upon and instead of learning or furthering what I do know it's easier to just pay someone else.

He's not trying to be a dick, just saying if its to much to do on your own it might be best to find a installer. Its always good to get opinions of others on here, most of us do all the time. Bounce ideas off one another to come up with the best plan. And many of us have learned the hard way, just dont want others to make same mistakes usually.

We are here to help in any way we can. But seriously, get a deadening plan together. It is soooooo important to prep speaker installs. Makes speakers sound better, quiets the ride, reduces rattles, ect. Be proven you can take a shitty set of speakers and make them sound good with proper deadening and install practices. And a great pair of speaker can sound like shit just thrown in somewhere.

Good luck, keep us posted.

I know he wasn't. It was the harsh reality that I was asking a lot of questions making me seem very new to this. I am not new, I just don't have the experience that some people have outside of basic installs (Fronts, rears, subs, head units, alarms). That being said, it's been about 8 years since I have really done much car audio but have done plenty of alarm systems and car wiring.

All I want to do, even by asking the way I did, was make sure I can collect as much data as possible before committing to my friend. Since there is minimal, if any, custom work being done, it seems like a straight forward install.

Again, I asked the way I did to come off with the intention to learn to the fullest.

For the deadening plan, we have about 80 ft2 of second skin damplifier that will be used. More to come if needed. Doors will be done and we plan to remove carpet and head liner to do the large areas where minimal sound deadening is present, using the +/- 25% rule.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 900 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...