ShadeTreeMechanic Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Floating ground / neutral is dangerous on external AC power because the ground that you are standing on is also tied to the ground and neutral of the source. If the ground on a machine is floating and a hot leg touches it, then the frame becomes energized and you get electrocuted when you touch it because you are standing on the ground that is tied to the neutral source and you complete the circuit. If the ground is not floating and the hot leg touches it then the breaker will trip and you don't get shocked. In a car this is not the case if the power is not an external supply. The HV should float as Snow Drifter said so if only one side touches ground it won't be a short. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IH8PunkRok Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 They told me to expect 300amp burst rating from each 60k. Which Scottie said 1 d3400 could handle a single 300amp burst and it would bring it down to 10.5v which is fine for competition only. So each 60k will pull 300 amps. And you have 3? Which is 900 amps. So the d3400 will shit itself, right? -Matt2005 Dodge Magnum RTJVC KD-AVX1 2 PPI S580.2 Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters PRV 8MB450s Audio Legion 3500.1D 2 RE MT 18s 360 ah LiFePO4 BatterySHCA 2/0 155.2 @ 29 hzKicker CVR 15's buildDD 3512e buildMini T-Line Build(6) 8s BuildNightshade 15s Wall BuildMagnum AB XFL 12s BuildNewest Magnum Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 If in a crash, the ground gets severed, it'll have a pretty significant voltage potential, but I don't see this being any different than if a ground got unhooked from the chassis in a crash. I do know that with the floating ground system, even if the positive wire gets pinched in the frame it's a non issue as there's no circuit being completed. The only way to short it out would be to pinch both power and ground in the frame or otherwise make them contact each other.FWIW all current mass produced hybrid and electric vehicles have their own floating ground for the high voltage stuff.Only snag I can think of with this setup would be the RCA sheath acting as a ground between the head unit and your amps. Perhaps you could look into a ground loop isolator? Inside is a transformer to pass along the signal, there's no actual electrical connection between the input and output. Theoretically anyway.. double check with a multi meter before installing. ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sencheezy Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 They told me to expect 300amp burst rating from each 60k. Which Scottie said 1 d3400 could handle a single 300amp burst and it would bring it down to 10.5v which is fine for competition only. So each 60k will pull 300 amps. And you have 3? Which is 900 amps.So the d3400 will shit itself, right? I will never be pulling full power out of each amp because I will reach thermal limits first. 165db with 237 DC Volts 6 15" SSA Evils 3 HV Taramps T60k @.33 18 XS Power D3400s Add me on SC, FB, IG, and YT @ Sencheezy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShadeTreeMechanic Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Make sure the cable on your batteries is rated for the voltage. Regular car audio cable has questionable insulation to begin with. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sencheezy Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 If in a crash, the ground gets severed, it'll have a pretty significant voltage potential, but I don't see this being any different than if a ground got unhooked from the chassis in a crash. I do know that with the floating ground system, even if the positive wire gets pinched in the frame it's a non issue as there's no circuit being completed. The only way to short it out would be to pinch both power and ground in the frame or otherwise make them contact each other. FWIW all current mass produced hybrid and electric vehicles have their own floating ground for the high voltage stuff. Only snag I can think of with this setup would be the RCA sheath acting as a ground between the head unit and your amps. Perhaps you could look into a ground loop isolator? Inside is a transformer to pass along the signal, there's no actual electrical connection between the input and output. Theoretically anyway.. double check with a multi meter before installing. Ok, great info, I will look into this. 165db with 237 DC Volts 6 15" SSA Evils 3 HV Taramps T60k @.33 18 XS Power D3400s Add me on SC, FB, IG, and YT @ Sencheezy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sencheezy Posted April 30, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Make sure the cable on your batteries is rated for the voltage. Regular car audio cable has questionable insulation to begin with. The cables are labeled. "NEMA Class K +105/-40C" I'm not sure what that means, but it's 3/0 wire from ElectronBeam.com 165db with 237 DC Volts 6 15" SSA Evils 3 HV Taramps T60k @.33 18 XS Power D3400s Add me on SC, FB, IG, and YT @ Sencheezy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boom50cal Posted April 30, 2016 Report Share Posted April 30, 2016 Make sure the cable on your batteries is rated for the voltage. Regular car audio cable has questionable insulation to begin with. The cables are labeled. "NEMA Class K +105/-40C" I'm not sure what that means, but it's 3/0 wire from ElectronBeam.com http://www.nationalwire.com/pdf/NEMA-HP4-TYPE-K.pdf On 1/4/2013 at 9:31 PM, HatersGonnaHate said: Wow. 184 posts and I think you're a fucking asshole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sencheezy Posted May 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2016 Make sure the cable on your batteries is rated for the voltage. Regular car audio cable has questionable insulation to begin with. The cables are labeled. "NEMA Class K +105/-40C" I'm not sure what that means, but it's 3/0 wire from ElectronBeam.com http://www.nationalwire.com/pdf/NEMA-HP4-TYPE-K.pdf 3/0 isn't listed there, I hope I'll be ok. 165db with 237 DC Volts 6 15" SSA Evils 3 HV Taramps T60k @.33 18 XS Power D3400s Add me on SC, FB, IG, and YT @ Sencheezy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted May 3, 2016 Report Share Posted May 3, 2016 It's the insulation rating you're concerned about. The wire you have is fine don't sweat it ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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