ShadeTreeMechanic Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Normally a voltage source is measured + to - but with a connection you would measure from one side to the other. Like with the + probe on the ring terminal and the - probe on the thing it is bolted to. With the system under full load, start by measuring the total distance of the whole wire and all connections included. Then start narrowing it down connection by connection. You might find that 10 connections each drop 0.1v and they all add up. 91 C350 Centurion conversion ( Four Door One Ton Bronco) 250A Alternator (Second Alternator Coming Soon) G65 AGM Up Front / Two G31 AGM in Back Pioneer 80PRS CT Sounds AT125.2 / CT Sounds 6.5 Strato Pro component Front Stage CT Sounds AT125.2 / Lanzar Pro 8" coax w/compression horn tweeter Rear Fill FSD 5000D 1/2 ohm (SoundQubed 7k Coming Soon) Two HDS315 Four Qubes Each 34hz (Two HDC3.118 and New Box Coming Soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Normally a voltage source is measured + to - but with a connection you would measure from one side to the other. Like with the + probe on the ring terminal and the - probe on the thing it is bolted to. With the system under full load, start by measuring the total distance of the whole wire and all connections included. Then start narrowing it down connection by connection. You might find that 10 connections each drop 0.1v and they all add up. Copy that, I never knew you could measure a voltage reading like that. I did all other with a resistance measurement before installing everything and everything read a .1 or .2 at most, but the DMM read .2 naturally. Will have to try that out. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Have you clamped your alt to see what amperage its outputting? So, to recap, you measure 14v at your battery at all times, even when you're full tilt? But at the amp, you're reading as much as 1v less when full tilt, but read 14v at all other times? SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Have you clamped your alt to see what amperage its outputting? So, to recap, you measure 14v at your battery at all times, even when you're full tilt? But at the amp, you're reading as much as 1v less when full tilt, but read 14v at all other times? I have not clamped my alt, the shop that put it in did but didn't say what they read, they just did it because they thought the alt was dead. Completely different story. To the recap. My battery is always showing 13.8 at lowest, to 14.1. I did check to see of any drop when bass initially hits, and there is some. I dropped to 13v flat with a sine wave coming on at full tilt. It will go back up to 13.8 13.9 in a split second, but the rear will continue to show low 13v even when the alt picks back up and is charging high again. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 On a sinewave, full tilt? I think you're fine personally. Drop a second battery in the back, that will stabilize it some with the added capacitance SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 On a sinewave, full tilt? I think you're fine personally. Drop a second battery in the back, that will stabilize it some with the added capacitance It's a 700 watt amp, and a 280a alt. I am pretty sure there should be absolutely NO difference in voltage between what the front and back see. Once the fronts voltage came back up, the back never did. I could see if both stayed at 13v, and I actually had a serious current draw, but theres no way I am pulling over 100a. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 so the back starts out the same but once it goes down it doesn't go back up? F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 No they both will drop when the bass starts, the front immediately pick back up but the back will stay as long as the current draw stays. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
08tahoe Posted June 1, 2016 Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Your volt meter is probably fucked or the wire going to it has a lot of resistance. If you check your voltage with a dmm right where the volt meter is at do you get the same reading with the dmm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted June 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2016 Your volt meter is probably fucked or the wire going to it has a lot of resistance. If you check your voltage with a dmm right where the volt meter is at do you get the same reading with the dmm? Yes the volt meter I have in the car reads the same when compared to a fluke dmm On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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