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2016 Mazda CX 5


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The ONLY feasible thing i can thinknof is simple in thought but complex as fuck.

Fabricated secondary alternator.

This would be wired straight to the battery (of course in line fused) but not throught the car's ECU. So im sure some regulator would be needed? Not sure on that part.

Then the complexity of getting a belt to tighten and drive both.

This seems the only SAFE and guaranteed way. Mazda used to or still does a crazy af ecu implementation for specific volatage that could hurt ecu or render it inop for being outnof tolerance. I do not know if this is still practiced by them, but i dont doubt they would do some shit like that.

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I just bought a 2016.5 CX5. Is this the same alternator as the 2016 model? Also have no plans for more than 1k watts of power either. Actually for right now it will be a Kicker zx400.1 running a Sundown X8v2. It is the family car so no huge system going in it cause I need the room, but I would like to have the option to upgrade in the future should the opportunity to do so arise.

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bad news.

My batteries were discharging very fast these last days. I knew there was a problem on that CX-5 alternator.

I was around 11.5 v ! :shok::unknw: with engine on.

Suddenly the alt decided to work, charging my 2 batts at 14.5 v.

But when I went home and looked under the hood, I found something burning red on the positive post on the alt ! :shok:

I tried, with no luck, to unscrew that post. I'm waiting for a friend, to help.

I hope I won't need to go to my local Mazda dealer.

I'll give you more news after my week-end in http://www.iledesaintmartin.org

B)B):good:

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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Robert Jagacki

hit him up on facebook he builds alt brackets maybe he can help you out.

sorry notorious hope you get it all straightened out and back to good.

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/

2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

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  • 2 weeks later...

Ok everything is good now !

i took out the wire going form the alt (+) to battery (+). The wire was loosing the plastic cover, and it was touching something badly.

The car would have caught fire if I did not have my cheap cig-lighter voltmeter. :shok: I saw I was loosing too much voltage : there was a problem.

It saved my car, and my life ! :yahoo:

Now I'm worrying about the wire going to the trunk : I think it's the same Knu wire. I need to check everything, and maybe buy new one, with better quality (it's a 0 Ga OFC from Knu). :spiteful::spiteful::ph34r:

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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Thankfully you found that would of been hella bad

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/

2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

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Ok everything is good now !

i took out the wire going form the alt (+) to battery (+). The wire was loosing the plastic cover, and it was touching something badly.

The car would have caught fire if I did not have my cheap cig-lighter voltmeter. :shok: I saw I was loosing too much voltage : there was a problem.

It saved my car, and my life ! :yahoo:

Now I'm worrying about the wire going to the trunk : I think it's the same Knu wire. I need to check everything, and maybe buy new one, with better quality (it's a 0 Ga OFC from Knu). :spiteful::spiteful::ph34r:

I use KNU OFC 1/0 for my big 3 and my run of 1/0 front to back and it works fine but I am also not pulling as much current as you are.

2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L

Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS

Knu OFC 1/0 

SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750

Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5

IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 

 

 

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Ok everything is good now !

i took out the wire going form the alt (+) to battery (+). The wire was loosing the plastic cover, and it was touching something badly.

The car would have caught fire if I did not have my cheap cig-lighter voltmeter. :shok: I saw I was loosing too much voltage : there was a problem.

It saved my car, and my life ! :yahoo:

Now I'm worrying about the wire going to the trunk : I think it's the same Knu wire. I need to check everything, and maybe buy new one, with better quality (it's a 0 Ga OFC from Knu). :spiteful::spiteful::ph34r:

I use KNU OFC 1/0 for my big 3 and my run of 1/0 front to back and it works fine but I am also not pulling as much current as you are.

I checked everything, it's ok.

I think I used an old piece of 0 ga wire for that part of the big 3 ( +alt to + on batt). I took it off. Alt is regulated to the max, I don't need it ! :unknw:

The one I ran to the back is in very good shape : it's a blue OFC Knu. No problem. :good:

I'm waiting on a good charger for my batteries. I hope I'll be able to catch the postman when he delivers.

black BMW X1 2.0 l 192 hp

OEM head unit, Amplifiers Audison AP 8.9 amp with integrated DSP and Ampere Audio 1200.

Focal ES 100 K in front doors, and Dayton RS 180 for midbass under the front seats.

2 SSA DEMONS 10" subs, in a 2.6 ft3  ported box. SecondSkin Damplifier on front doors, and Luxury Liner Pro for the cargo area.

 

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