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Right now I have installed:
JVC KW-V50BT Indash
2- 12in Rockford P3D4 powered by R1200.1D
Cheap ported box
4ga OFC power
2- 5x7 Apline Type S, 2- 5x7 JBL GTO8629 powered by R400.4D
As of 9/20/17:
I'm laying down some fatmat 50mil in the trunk/backseat area.
Skyhigh big 3 0ga upgrade
Skyhigh 4ga OFC power and ground
So here is my question, I have ofc 4 gauge ran from the front to my back battery. Right now I only have 1 -1000 watt mono block for my sub. I want to power my door speakers with a 4 channel amp. Should I run 0 gauge to a distro block and continue 0 to my power cell and use the 4 gauge for my door speaker amp. Or should I just do another run of 4 gauge to my second amp.
So I just recently got into car audio, and first went with a single rf 12 in a prefab box... later upgrading to a dual prefab box. I haven't experienced crazy bass but to me they hit pretty good even though I'm running them both at about rf's rated 750 watts (birth sheet rated 860 watts.) My current setup is with the QBomb(power) dual 12 box and two p3d4-12s wired to 2ohm each then wired in parallel internally by the R750-1D into 1ohm load. The vehicle I'm using is a 08 Honda civic ex, with all stock electrical right now.
I have two questions.
1. Is it worth it upgrading the box into a custom ported one? or even a custom sealed one?
2. If so, how would I go about making my own design or bouncing them off this forum? I tried to use WinISD but I'm not sure if what I'm doing is correct, and I don't understand how to calculate the BL or Z (picture below). All the manufacturer lists is the
Magnet Weight (oz): 96 oz. (2.73 kg.) but doesn't give amperage? "The formula is mass in grams divided by the current in amperes" Does this mean the amps drawn by the subs rms rating?
I'm not too sure where to go from here but any help or advice would be appreciated
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