aygobasshead Posted October 30, 2017 Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Hi guys, I freshly installed my 3sixty.3, everything works, all wiring is correct no bad grounds whatsoever Remote out and in delay is set to 4 seconds, and still when I switch off, I hear a loud pop sound. What could this be? Please assist! Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aygobasshead Posted October 30, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2017 Bump, I need help :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aygobasshead Posted November 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 Bump, what's it take to get a response from anyone around here ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalledSonic Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 Did someone recommend that you try finding a different ignition-on wire in another thread you made about this? Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aygobasshead Posted November 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 My possible solution was: Currently I have it wired to ignition on via radio yellow (switched plus), which means that if ignition is switched off all power immediately is drawn from the DSP generating the pop. Theoretically, if I wire it to the battery the turn-off delay can do it's work and I shouldn't hear a pop noise anymore as the DSP delay time can do it's work due to power not immediately being drawn because ignition is switched off. Could this be it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalledSonic Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 2 minutes ago, aygobasshead said: My possible solution was: Currently I have it wired to ignition on via radio yellow (switched plus), which means that if ignition is switched off all power immediately is drawn from the DSP generating the pop. Theoretically, if I wire it to the battery the turn-off delay can do it's work and I shouldn't hear a pop noise anymore as the DSP delay time can do it's work due to power not immediately being drawn because ignition is switched off. Could this be it? Only one way to find out! Electronics are finicky sometimes. I think you should try it out and report back. Just grab some extra wire and do a quick test. Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WalledSonic Posted November 1, 2017 Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 Wait, wire your ignition-on straight to the battery? What signals the unit to turn off then? EDIT: When does your head unit power off? After the 3603? Chevy Sonic Wall (4) 15's on 10k Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209412-2015-chevy-sonicwall4-15s10klithiumlarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ (4) Fi SP4 15's | (2) Ampere 5Ks | Active! | Arc KS600.2 & KS125.2mini | CDT Silk Domes | Silver Flute 8s | 240Ah JY | US Alts Jeep Wrangler JK (4) 8's in a 4th Order Build Log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/209841-shadow-2016-jeep-wrangler-jk4th-order4-8sdc-35klarge-case-hairpin-us-alts/ IG @walledsonic Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aygobasshead Posted November 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2017 Just now, WalledSonic said: Wait, wire your ignition-on straight to the battery? What signals the unit to turn off then? Nooooo, wire the DSP straight to the battery with a fuse in between. The remote in wire should make the DSP turn on and off with the HU and because it's now wired to constant power it'll be able to effectively make use of the turn-off delay, because power isn't instantly drawn as soon as the ignition is off. You understand? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
06RTCharger Posted November 2, 2017 Report Share Posted November 2, 2017 When refering to the vehicle stock wiring I think red is “ignition switched power”? Thats where ur headunits remote-in should be wired to.Then ur headunit remote-out(usually white wire on ur headunit) to ur 360.3 remote-in (bluewhite wire on ur 360.3 powerharness). Yellow is constant power, yellow is usually straight to the battery. That would apply also to ur 360.3 power harness, the yellow coming from ur 360.3 should be wired to ur battery/battery distro block. The black is ground, blue is remote out for ur amps. Thats how i see it anyway, hope it helps some. Goodluck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aygobasshead Posted November 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 I fixed it already, it was as I predicted. By wiring it to the battery instead of the radio I managed to get the turn-off delay to work and the pop sound is gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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