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Question on how powerful I can go (stock electrical)


buildinggam

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I am looking into upgrading my sub amp and wanted to know how big could I go without burning out my alternator or battery.  

I have a 2012 Altima 2.5s, quick Google search says I have a 120 amp alternator.  Currently I have an Alpine mrp m450 pushing an American bass xd1244 in a (if memory serves) 1.75cuft ported box tuned to 32hz.  I also have a jl audio j320.4 pushing pioneer ts-d speakers and a pioneer 5500bhs deck.  For power I have 0/1 welding cable to a distro block and 2 runs of 4awg stinger wire to the amps.  Aside from a optima yellow top I've done nothing to upgrade electrical.  

I'm looking to go close to 1000w rms at 2 ohm.  The amps I've been looking at are Orion xtr1500.1 and skar rp2000.1 I'm curious if I'd be able to power either of those amps with my stock charging system and maybe doing the big 3.  My budget is like 200-250 so I'll have extra to put together the big 3 upgrade.  I'm not looking to compete or anything just looking for more bump without having to boost my eq.

 

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Well usually once your past 1200rms or so. The voltage drop starts to affect the amp especially newer ones with low voltage cutoff. 

You could probably do it with the big 3 but a capacitor or 2nd battery would help the voltage stay stable during the good parts of a song.

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Just went through this myself while upgrading my sub amp. 110a alt and 4awg power/ground. Big 3 done with 2awg and a Bosch AGM under the hood. Single 12 tuned to 33hz on an Orion xtr2500.1dz @2ohms. I set the amp to put out 58v at 30/40 (volume on the head unit) using a multimeter and all is good. Lights dim of course but voltage doesn't drop below 12.3 at idle. At 35/40 volume, the meter reads 70v at the output on the amp and shows no distortion on the dd-1 but voltage hits 11.8 after a few min so 30/40 is my daily listening volume.

That 120amp alt will be fine with big 3 done.

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I used to own a 2011 altima 2.5, it came with a 110a alt from factory.

it did fine at 2ohms off a 4500.1 & never really dipped below 12.4v but that was with an added g31 out the trunk & big 3.

At 1 ohm however, i could dip into flat 12's almost instantly.

It helps to use an efficient woofer

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2 hours ago, bigpoppahump said:

Just went through this myself while upgrading my sub amp. 110a alt and 4awg power/ground. Big 3 done with 2awg and a Bosch AGM under the hood. Single 12 tuned to 33hz on an Orion xtr2500.1dz @2ohms. I set the amp to put out 58v at 30/40 (volume on the head unit) using a multimeter and all is good. Lights dim of course but voltage doesn't drop below 12.3 at idle. At 35/40 volume, the meter reads 70v at the output on the amp and shows no distortion on the dd-1 but voltage hits 11.8 after a few min so 30/40 is my daily listening volume.

That 120amp alt will be fine with big 3 done.

Just curious, did you set the gains with a DMM or the DD1?

1 hour ago, slowfkncar said:

I used to own a 2011 altima 2.5, it came with a 110a alt from factory.

it did fine at 2ohms off a 4500.1 & never really dipped below 12.4v but that was with an added g31 out the trunk & big 3.

At 1 ohm however, i could dip into flat 12's almost instantly.

It helps to use an efficient woofer

How would an efficient woofer help? Are you limiting the output of the amp because the woofer needs less power, is that the idea?

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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quick, plain, and simple... youll be perfectly fine, 

 

just make sure your gains are set properly and youll be fine, big 3 is a plus for sure. ive ran well over 1k on stock electrical and my 4runner came with a 65amp alt. i had to watch the voltage once i really started pushing it, 3.5k with 2 banks of caps, but with around 1k peak you have nothing to worry about

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27 minutes ago, MrSkippyJ said:

Just curious, did you set the gains with a DMM or the DD1?

How would an efficient woofer help? Are you limiting the output of the amp because the woofer needs less power, is that the idea?

Sorry, more efficient in the sense of having more headroom so yes, less power needed in general.

wouldn't you agree it would help on stock electrical?

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1 hour ago, slowfkncar said:

Sorry, more efficient in the sense of having more headroom so yes, less power needed in general.

wouldn't you agree it would help on stock electrical?

Yes absolutely. I was more asking for education really. Although I was worried that the meaning was a more efficient woofer would make the amp work less to produce the same amount of power. I'm sure there is something to be said about impedance curves and woofer efficiency that might decrease the amps power draw. I can't imagine that is enough to say a more efficient woofer makes it easier on stock electrical.

Since that isn't where you were going, I agree that a more efficient woofer could work as well on less power and therefore easier on stock electrical.

That felt long winded. lol 

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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Ya best bet is if you are still in a worry about if ya stock charging system is going to handle it, just get a 2nd battery and ya worries will be all gone.

Once I added my 2nd battery the lights never even flicker an my voltage stays around 13-14v some times below 13 rarely, but I also have a 145A~14V DC alt stock in my truck and driving what is in my sig.

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