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Current/Voltage Help?

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1 hour ago, SnowDrifter said:

1. Toss amperage ratings for wire out the window. They're a thermal maximum but not necessarily always desirable. Figure out your target voltage drop for the system and run some math to figure out what's appropriate to run

Damn all this time I had not considered that aspect of current ratings vs wire gauge. I knew it was because the wire will heat up, but there's a whole dimension not being considered - time. Those ratings you see on a wire gauge ampacity chart are for continuous current. So even though 1/0 can be rated 300A for 13 feet continuous, it should be able to handle bursts of 500A without melting. None of us play our systems at full tilt constantly, but we still tend to size our wire like we do....

Sorry to hijack the thread, this is an interesting topic for another day though.

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@k58.cross Indeed it is an interesting topic. It's definitely something to keep in mind but i don't intend on reaching anywhere near a thermal limit with regards to wiring, especially after this upgrade O_o

@SnowDrifter Is staying in the 13.5v range impossible? Anything above 13v would be great imo. Agreed @ stock alternators being limited by multiple factors. Pretty relieved to know that upgrading the stock alternator isn't the plan anymore. No matter what i do, whether it be a/c or headlights etc. the voltage doesn't step up unfortunately. It doesn't cross 13.2v. It's the 1NZ-FE engine if that helps any. So far from what i'm hearing, the alternator change/upgrade will negate these issues due to the built-in one wire regulation. Hoping there are no negative side effects. The idle rpm is low in general under no load basically. The only reason i want to raise the idle rpm is so that i hopefully get a better charge rate. So far i've been advised to get a small pulley on the Mechman 240A which should hopefully help somewhat. 

Really grateful for all the feedback folks 😃

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https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/48429-increasing-voltage-from-alternator/&ved=2ahUKEwjpj7uKturgAhXRqZ4KHUN6DxIQFjABegQIDhAI&usg=AOvVaw2b7wD6VWWnUicw-Jw6lGZy Have you given that a read by chance? Ive done something similar to bypass the voltage regulator in my acura. Havent tried to increase alt voltage however, stock alt is around 14.2.

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@JustSam Thanks bro, will give it a read. Tried a few different things i read about as well as tried things that mechanics/technicians suggested & no luck so far. Will probably just have to wait until i get the new alternator. The dealer is currently still waiting to get in stock so there's a slight delay. By the mean time, i got my Northstar SMS-AGM220. In the process of wiring it up piece by piece. Can't wait to finally have some proper current 😃

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2 hours ago, image91 said:

@JustSam Thanks bro, will give it a read. Tried a few different things i read about as well as tried things that mechanics/technicians suggested & no luck so far. Will probably just have to wait until i get the new alternator. The dealer is currently still waiting to get in stock so there's a slight delay. By the mean time, i got my Northstar SMS-AGM220. In the process of wiring it up piece by piece. Can't wait to finally have some proper current 😃

You should be able to increase engine rpm by finding the throttle cable under the hood and making it tighter. Kinda like the brakes on a bicycle. However unless the ecu senses a heavy load, voltage will stay near that float level. Thats why even when playing your stereo it stays low, cause your system is connected to the battery. Load sensors suck for car audio purposes, i believe its meant for fuel economy.

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19 hours ago, JustSam said:

You should be able to increase engine rpm by finding the throttle cable under the hood and making it tighter. Kinda like the brakes on a bicycle. However unless the ecu senses a heavy load, voltage will stay near that float level. Thats why even when playing your stereo it stays low, cause your system is connected to the battery. Load sensors suck for car audio purposes, i believe its meant for fuel economy.

Creating an air leak by over tightening  throttle cable?  

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SHCA 1/0 OFC(blue+  SMD Fuse Holders(blue)

Pioneer AVH-2440NEX  SHCA Pro RCA 

 

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They should make these things optional in my opinion. In a lot of cases i'm sure people would more than willingly give up a bit of fuel economy. In my case i desperately wish i could. As to why it isn't my choice & a feature i can toggle, i'll never know. More recent models include the option. 

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Not that i have seen or heard. Asked alottt of people & so far haven't had any luck. Someone tried to bypass it & the regulator, due to not being controlled by computer, sort of went haywire & was fluctuating irratically. 

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1 hour ago, image91 said:

Not that i have seen or heard. Asked alottt of people & so far haven't had any luck. Someone tried to bypass it & the regulator, due to not being controlled by computer, sort of went haywire & was fluctuating irratically. 

What they bypass and do? What happened to the battery.

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Shakin not Stirred....my buildhttp://www.stevemead...ngle-cab-build/412 CVX

And put a sealed enclosure in your trunk cut a hole in your deck and call it ported :lol2:

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