BassAddikt Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 So, I'm about to start on some changes for my ride and could use a bit of help/understanding/advice on a few things. As of right now, I have stock electrical (06 expedition 5.4) running 4 mmats 15s with a Rockville amp. I'm aware the amp ain't the best but I just needed something to work and its actually performing quite well. Anyway, I'm planning on getting different subs here soon and I know my electrical will need to be upgraded beforehand. The subs I will be getting will be the skar evls. I've been trying to decide between 15s or 18s but I'm leaning towards the 15s. Reason being is I'm not completely ready to give up my second row and I've designed a few boxes for 4 15s to go behind the second row. I know with 4 18s I would have to wall it off. PLUS, I plan on eventually running 6 15s so getting 4 now will save some money since I'll only need to get two more. Now, as far as the electrical goes, I'm planning on replacing my alt with a high output alt (300amp) and my stock battery with a d6500. First question- would replacing those two things (along with big 3 and 0g wire) be sufficient enough for 4 evl 15s? I plan on getting a few xp3000s to put in the back but I'm hoping I can just use upgraded alt and battery until I can get the money for the other batteries. Next question, when installing big 3, I've read that you don't replace stock wires- you add to them. So If that's true, will the new alt put out too much for my stock cable going to the battery? Since it is a fused cable? If the fuse for that cable is matched to the amperage of my stock alt, will a high output alt be too much current for that fuse? Also, once I do add the extra batteries in the back, do I run 0g straight from the alternator to the back batteries or from the front battery to back batteries? And as far as installing multiple maps, what's the best (and easiest) way to connect the remote wire to all amps? I've heard of using a relay but not completely sure what to look for. If anyone could give me a link to one it would be appreciated. I hope all this made sense and hope someone can give me some guidance on what to do and whether or not I'm thinking in the right direction. Much thanks in advance! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 what Amp are you gonna run is what will determine your electrical not the subs my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAddikt Posted December 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 4 minutes ago, CstrokerV said: what Amp are you gonna run is what will determine your electrical not the subs I'll be running the skar rp3500.1. One per pair of subs wired to 2 ohms. But I also have an rp150.4 powering my doors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joshdashef Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 Quote will the new alt put out too much for my stock cable going to the battery? Since it is a fused cable? If the fuse for that cable is matched to the amperage of my stock alt, will a high output alt be too much current for that fuse? In this case your upgraded wires will be the path of least resistance since they are 0 gauge versus factory 6 gauge etc. Fuse within 3 feet of alternator, closer the better. Since your putting in a 300 I highly suggest using OFC or pure copper wiring instead of any CCA copper clad aluminum. It is worth its weight in copper. As far as doing the big three you will need to wire 1/0 to each of the following Alternator Positive to Battery Positive Alternator Negative to Battery Negative Battery Negative to Frame/Chasis *Also can run a ground wire from Engine to Chasis for a "big four"* Quote Also, once I do add the extra batteries in the back, do I run 0g straight from the alternator to the back batteries or from the front battery to back batteries? Up to you, I have seen people do both. You could say that if you wire directly to the back you will be feeding your back batteries more-so than if you were to first wire to your front then your back. Just fuse within 3 feet of exiting alternator positive and within 3 feet of your rear battery bank to protect the wire in between them. Quote And as far as installing multiple maps, what's the best (and easiest) way to connect the remote wire to all amps? I've heard of using a relay but not completely sure what to look for. If anyone could give me a link to one it would be appreciated. It is a little aged but Mark does a good job at explaining what a relay does, how to wire for your situation, etc. Worth a watch. Relays can be found online or at your local hard ware store, some come with easy connectors while others require crimp connectors or soldering directly to the relay. SMD Tool Map (2022): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/220267-smd-tool-map-2022/ My Port Size Calculator (in progress): https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217087-port-size-calculator-in-progress/ Common Port Walls for a Slot Port: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/217076-common-port-walls-why-it-matters-to-your-box/?tab=comments#comment-3240313 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 25 minutes ago, BassAddikt said: I'll be running the skar rp3500.1. One per pair of subs wired to 2 ohms. But I also have an rp150.4 powering my doors. Why are you going to run two amps at 2 ohms? my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAddikt Posted December 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 2 minutes ago, CstrokerV said: Why are you going to run two amps at 2 ohms? Each sub is rated 1250 watts rms, so 2500 for a pair. The amp is rated 2300 rms on a 2 ohm load so I figured it would be a good match for the subs (1 amp per pair) and I figured it would be a little less strain on the electrical compared to wiring at 1 ohm. I don't have a problem wiring at 1 ohm but, assuming a 2 ohm load would be less strain on the electrical, I figured it would be somewhat beneficial. please correct me if I'm wrong Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAddikt Posted December 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 17 minutes ago, Joshdashef said: In this case your upgraded wires will be the path of least resistance since they are 0 gauge versus factory 6 gauge etc. Fuse within 3 feet of alternator, closer the better. Since your putting in a 300 I highly suggest using OFC or pure copper wiring instead of any CCA copper clad aluminum. It is worth its weight in copper. As far as doing the big three you will need to wire 1/0 to each of the following Alternator Positive to Battery Positive Alternator Negative to Battery Negative Battery Negative to Frame/Chasis *Also can run a ground wire from Engine to Chasis for a "big four"* Up to you, I have seen people do both. You could say that if you wire directly to the back you will be feeding your back batteries more-so than if you were to first wire to your front then your back. Just fuse within 3 feet of exiting alternator positive and within 3 feet of your rear battery bank to protect the wire in between them. It is a little aged but Mark does a good job at explaining what a relay does, how to wire for your situation, etc. Worth a watch. Relays can be found online or at your local hard ware store, some come with easy connectors while others require crimp connectors or soldering directly to the relay. Thank you for the info! I sort of had an idea of how to run everything but you explained very well. One question before it slips my mind, it's not gonna cause any issue using two different batteries, will it? (D6500 up front and xp3000s in the back) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 21 minutes ago, BassAddikt said: Each sub is rated 1250 watts rms, so 2500 for a pair. The amp is rated 2300 rms on a 2 ohm load so I figured it would be a good match for the subs (1 amp per pair) and I figured it would be a little less strain on the electrical compared to wiring at 1 ohm. I don't have a problem wiring at 1 ohm but, assuming a 2 ohm load would be less strain on the electrical, I figured it would be somewhat beneficial. please correct me if I'm wrong You have 2 amps it will be about the same drain make it easier on yourself and get one amp and run it at 1ohm sundown will have a cheapish 5k in mid feb my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassAddikt Posted December 31, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 2 minutes ago, CstrokerV said: You have 2 amps it will be about the same drain make it easier on yourself and get one amp and run it at 1ohm sundown will have a cheapish 5k in mid feb That thought has crossed my mind and I thought about just using one but when I do my big build with 6 15s, I don't really know what I would do unless I just got another amp for the last two subs, and I could do that but the idea I have for the amp rack will look better (in my opinion) with the same size amps, which is why I was just gonna have one amp on each pair of subs. I guess I'm just trying get the equipment that I'll be using for this next build, and still be able to use it all for the big build that I plan on doing later on. If that makes any sense lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CstrokerV Posted December 31, 2019 Report Share Posted December 31, 2019 Get 2 of the 5ks then run 3 subs per amp what ohms are yours subs again? my build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/142505-small-build-log-4-dc-lvl3-10s-tl-update-link-to-rebuild/ http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/154258-rebuild-6-lvl3-12s-update-small-video-nothing-spectacular/ new build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/188181-03-trailblazer-slow-build-8-dc-lvl3-12-m1-motor-m2-parts/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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