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15 minutes ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

Just because your amp is connected to that back battery directly doesn’t mean that’s the culprit. You have to remember, that battery and alternator setup is in circuit together. If one thing isn’t up to par, it would affect the whole circuit and then cause quicker drain of that inferior factor and after awhile it would drain and affect the other factors in that circuit. It should be working together and now you have a poorly grounded battery working against that vehicles electrical circuit. That one 1/0 gauge ground isn’t enough to ground that rear battery that you are pulling hard from with 4 runs of positive feed 1/0 to your subwoofer amp. There is suppose to be a slight difference in voltage on what the amp sees, what the rear battery sees and what the front battery sees because of the placements in that circuit. But when there isn’t no current pull then the batteries should rest and charge the same. Even though you aren’t pulling the maximum amount of current that amp can draw, you are none the less, pulling more current than one 1/0 gauge can support, so when it comes to positive output and draw, it needs a ground strong enough to support it and handle it. That one wire isn’t enough. You don’t have that battery grounded good enough, which is holding your draw and output back and minimizing the correct charge and maintaining that battery needs to function correctly. It can’t support that circuit with that weak ass ground. Double up on that battery’s ground and that back battery would be good and equal to the rest of that circuit and the rest of the circuit would be stronger and support more current. You are holding that rear battery back, which is capping your circuit. Come on dude, I told you what it was when I posted. I didn’t even look at the positive runs coming off that battery until this post and now I know 100% you need to add a 1/0 gauge ofc ground to that battery. You could have them amp grounds grounded off that battery too. You have 4 posited feeds and could have 4 negative feeds to that amp and only one 1/0 feed coming from your alternator to your front battery and then to your back battery and then 4 positive runs coming off that battery, which has one 1/0 ground, and possibly 4 negative feeds coming off that rear battery too grounding your amp. Either way, this  is what you need to do, before you get an alternator, double up on every positive 1/0 run in your car audio circuit and double up on every 1/0 ground on your car audio circuit. And don’t cut corners and think it’s possible to cut corners in car audio and do well. And you don’t have to order grounding kits. Just order the total length of 1/0 gauge ofc wiring you need from knukonceptz and order some 1/0 gauge ring terminals. Order two sizes, just in case, 5/16” ring terminals and 3/8” ring terminals and order a hammer crimper if you don’t wanna buy a hydraulic crimper and fix your current problem. If you see a 1/0 wire in your vehicle, even if it has another smaller gauge wire doubled with it, add another 1/0 run to it. Period. No exceptions. And remember, there is no such thing as cutting corners in car audio if you want a good setup. Much love and bass on. Oh yeah, that ground in that second picture needs to be moved. That’s not a good grounding location.

I'm going to second that dude. 

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

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Starting some upgrades to my current system.   Daily driver 2014 cruze. I did Door speakers when i first got it, Alpine Type-s Coax 6.5. Kept the stock tweeters on the dash. Alpine MRV f300

Soooo, what is your question even?  I didnt even see a question.    Edit- and, your not anywhere near 8k.  What voltage do you see now? At full rip, ... playing at or around tuning, or over/

so, like i said, no where near 8k....

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14 hours ago, 1point21gigawatts said:

 Much love and bass on.

So much input, I do appreciate the help! Saving up for that 2nd run front to back. Plan is Skyhigh. The ground kit is not pre cut lengths of wire. It is a kit for making new grounds, it includes a shouldered drill bit, a wire brush drill bit, self taping bolts, star lock washers and some insulating electrical jelly. It is really nice but you still need a punch to mark the hole before you drill, I learned that the hard way. Never did the hammer or the bolt cutter looking crimper. I did use vise grips and slowly smash the crap out of a lug and solder it 🤷‍♂️. Last year I finally splurged on a harbor freight hydraulic crimper. I like it especially at a reasonable price and does very consistent work. Lugs from now on I will go for the bigger size, if I can. I am going to try the skyhigh 1/0 tinned lugs this round. They are double the price of the lugs I was using but am willing to try for the extra 10$. I ran into a diameter issue with some of the lugs I did buy and had to drill them out. The bolts on jims machineworkx are larger than down4sound battery terminals. I have a good set of hardened bits and with a little bit of 5w30 drilled out the hole. The oil helped so much and I did clean everything after with a scotch brite and soap after. I believe everything that is crimped is done well, no more visegrip crimps. Yes that ground on the cylinder head, oof, a worthless terrible idea. I cannot ground directly to the alternator without a lift/getting under the car and possibly undoing the serpentine belt. however, there is the engine mount. Its large, has multiple bolts and is bolted to the same corner of engine casting that the alternator bolts to. New plan is to ground there. Any thoughts?

 

Good news is this week I got the skv2-3500 wired up. it is playing nicely. There is some audible noise but it is intermittent. Voltage is staying strong, drops to 13 volts lowest during quick deep bass notes but  quickly bounces back to 14.4. Bad news is I lost the bass knob and no longer have a remote clip light, doh.

 

 

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On 1/22/2021 at 6:44 PM, 1point21gigawatts said:

A bank of caps isn’t gonna help you. You need more reserve, not quicker charge and discharge, caps don’t offer reserve, just quicker charge and discharge rate, which helps voltage. But if you don’t have the reserve to feed that hungry ass amp then that amp won’t eat and won’t put out what it’s suppose to. Point blank. Stop trying to find answers and spend hours reading what you find on Google search and watching videos when you were told the answer to save you from doing that needless searching. That’s crazy dude. And your voltage is probably lower in the rear because your rear battery isn’t grounded good enough, thus not getting charged well like the front. I’ve seen this before. But like dude said about doubling up on runs, that would be optimal and help stabilize voltage better even if that one run is sufficient in handling the current flow fully and it would charge that battery better too. But if you battery isn’t grounded good enough, then that battery wouldn’t charge well if you had multiple positive battery feeds. If you back battery is feeding off it’s positive post, let’s say 2 runs of 1/0 ofc and one run of 4 gauge ofc off of one run of 1/0 ofc from the front battery, you would need at least 2 1/0 ofc grounds on that rear battery. If there is more than a single 1/0 ofc wire coming off that rear battery’s positive post, even another 4 gauge or 8 gauge wire, then a single 1/0 of battery ground wouldn’t be sufficient. Your amp is drawing a good amount of current to just be an 8000 rms amp and I’m sure you have another amp to play your speakers. And you are capping current draw, this is certain, so you are maxing out the current draw, and pulling hard from them batteries. They better be grounded well.

Caps do offer reserve, albeit not much but you can charge them up to 15v unlike a battery. 

 

Yes for at MINIMUM for every positive connection there needs to be the equal amount of negative. Do not ground your amp to the battery either. batteries and amps all have their own grounds. Can never have too many grounds but surely can have too few.

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5 hours ago, liteblue said:

So much input, I do appreciate the help! Saving up for that 2nd run front to back. Plan is Skyhigh. The ground kit is not pre cut lengths of wire. It is a kit for making new grounds, it includes a shouldered drill bit, a wire brush drill bit, self taping bolts, star lock washers and some insulating electrical jelly. It is really nice but you still need a punch to mark the hole before you drill, I learned that the hard way. Never did the hammer or the bolt cutter looking crimper. I did use vise grips and slowly smash the crap out of a lug and solder it 🤷‍♂️. Last year I finally splurged on a harbor freight hydraulic crimper. I like it especially at a reasonable price and does very consistent work. Lugs from now on I will go for the bigger size, if I can. I am going to try the skyhigh 1/0 tinned lugs this round. They are double the price of the lugs I was using but am willing to try for the extra 10$. I ran into a diameter issue with some of the lugs I did buy and had to drill them out. The bolts on jims machineworkx are larger than down4sound battery terminals. I have a good set of hardened bits and with a little bit of 5w30 drilled out the hole. The oil helped so much and I did clean everything after with a scotch brite and soap after. I believe everything that is crimped is done well, no more visegrip crimps. Yes that ground on the cylinder head, oof, a worthless terrible idea. I cannot ground directly to the alternator without a lift/getting under the car and possibly undoing the serpentine belt. however, there is the engine mount. Its large, has multiple bolts and is bolted to the same corner of engine casting that the alternator bolts to. New plan is to ground there. Any thoughts?

 

Good news is this week I got the skv2-3500 wired up. it is playing nicely. There is some audible noise but it is intermittent. Voltage is staying strong, drops to 13 volts lowest during quick deep bass notes but  quickly bounces back to 14.4. Bad news is I lost the bass knob and no longer have a remote clip light, doh.

 

 

order one from crescendo, $20. I strongly believe they are the same, if not I will reimburse you and pay for shipping to me.

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15 hours ago, sICSoundz said:

Caps do offer reserve, albeit not much but you can charge them up to 15v unlike a battery. 

 

Yes for at MINIMUM for every positive connection there needs to be the equal amount of negative. Do not ground your amp to the battery either. batteries and amps all have their own grounds. Can never have too many grounds but surely can have too few.

I can charge my battery cells around 16 volts or better. No problem. Caps do offer something similar to reserve, minimal though in comparison because they aren’t meant to feed like a battery when the current pull is more than the alternator can deliver. Caps are meant to eat and store and then charge and discharge quickly to help voltage stabilize. This forum is meant to help people make the correct decisions and talking like that, when he is thinking of caps anyways, is like mentioning bad recommendations. Batteries and better grounds is what he needs. So don’t confuse him just because you wanna debate. I could of told him caps deliver a small amount of reserve, but I wasn’t gonna confuse him and talk up a bad recommendation. And it’s called battery reserve for a reason. Not capacitance. So in actuality, caps don’t offer any reserve, they just offer capacitance. Which is meant to eat and store for charging and discharging quickly, which can act somewhat like a battery reserve, but minimal in comparison.

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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