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Starting some upgrades to my current system.

 

Daily driver 2014 cruze. I did Door speakers when i first got it, Alpine Type-s Coax 6.5. Kept the stock tweeters on the dash. Alpine MRV f300 powering the doors, 50 x 4.

 

I have had a few different subs in the vehicle. One 12, then two 15s. Now one 15 and planning on two 12's.

 

Bunch of amplifiers and now i have an SFB 8000 from Sundown

 

Before upgrades i had an Autocraft AGM (Advanced auto parts brand) and one D1200 from xs power. Not enough for 800 watts.

 

Upgraded the alternator to 200 Amp singer (largest plug and play alt i could find). Swapped the Autocraft for XS d4800 and added a second D1200 to the rear. Saving up some money for a third d1200 or perhaps a Supercap? any input would be appreciated. and saving for some more 1/0 copper.

 

 

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Starting some upgrades to my current system.   Daily driver 2014 cruze. I did Door speakers when i first got it, Alpine Type-s Coax 6.5. Kept the stock tweeters on the dash. Alpine MRV f300

Soooo, what is your question even?  I didnt even see a question.    Edit- and, your not anywhere near 8k.  What voltage do you see now? At full rip, ... playing at or around tuning, or over/

so, like i said, no where near 8k....

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Soooo, what is your question even?  I didnt even see a question. 

 

Edit- and, your not anywhere near 8k.  What voltage do you see now? At full rip, ... playing at or around tuning, or over/under...What are your goals? Do you compete? If so, in what? Burp, or?  

 Where are you wired at, nominal? I have all sorts of questions, and i didnt see any from you, nor did i see any real info, besides sharing your gear. Whats up boss?? Give us the skinny. 

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I did not know i had to have a question D= but i am curious if yall think i should get a supercapacitor or another battery?

 

GOAL = Subwoofers on 8k.  No competition lanes but i would like to road trip with subs slapping for hours.

 

I know my electrical is not strong enough for anything more than maybe some burps at 8kw. My basic understanding is you want Amp Hours from batteries + Alternator Potential = Amperage Required by Amplifiers for long term use.

 

Have not even tried to go full tilt. I can get some new clamped numbers for ya soon. Voltage is decent, lowest driving is 13.4 jamming to russticals.

 

Woofer is 15 inch dvc 2 Ohm wired to 1 ohm. When i did some some testing on my 3500w half bridge it was rising to about 2.4 ohm at around 45 hz maybe? It was 4 to 6 months ago and unfortunately i neglected to write anything down..... but the testing was to see if i was getting rated power and i was.

 

Never did any real break in. Put it in the box and let it play. Box is roughly 4 cubes after displacement tuned to 32-34.

 

Plan is to re-basket my one 15 to a 12 and have two 12s instead of one 15. As a 12 they want 2 to 2.5 cubes compared to 15 wants closer to 4.5 cubes.

Ive never rebuilt a subwoofer before so this should be fun.

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Did some testing yesterday and re tuned.

 

4000 watt rms with a dmm ~ 63 volt. It is much louder than what ever i had it set at before. Voltage drops into the 12's. think i saw 12.4 during a song and it took maybe a minute for voltage to climb back to 14.4.

 

I was not able to get a solid clamp number, not sure if my batteries were dying on the ammeter or what but i will attempt again next day off.

 

Dizzle. So far i am really enjoying it. Low pass goes down to 80 hz. Makes setting crossovers simple (all the way down). I don't plan on going below 1 ohm nominal so dont need a half bridge amplifier. I have an skv2-3500 and i like this amp more for the money, they cost about the same. I feel like the half bridge needs much better electrical, i was getting some noise. NOT THE AMPS FAULT  most likely my subpar wiring......But no noise on the Sundown with everything else the same.

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yes kyblack, not close... yet.

 

Ran into my first issue. Back two batteries are reading a lower voltage than the front battery when the car is running. On vehicle start up both front and rear read the same voltage. Rise up to about 15v, then drop down to 14.3/4 after a few seconds. But after playing some bass the rear bank dips and never really goes back up. Thankfully it has occurred while testing and never let it dip below 12.4. Even when the rear batteries read 12 volt the front is still reading 14.3/4. Voltage stops dropping when i stop playing music and Does not go back up until i restart the car.

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23 minutes ago, liteblue said:

yes kyblack, not close... yet.

 

Ran into my first issue. Back two batteries are reading a lower voltage than the front battery when the car is running. On vehicle start up both front and rear read the same voltage. Rise up to about 15v, then drop down to 14.3/4 after a few seconds. But after playing some bass the rear bank dips and never really goes back up. Thankfully it has occurred while testing and never let it dip below 12.4. Even when the rear batteries read 12 volt the front is still reading 14.3/4. Voltage stops dropping when i stop playing music and Does not go back up until i restart the car.

Did you check if your car has a battery management system out something along those lines? You might have mentioned that prior. If so, sorry about that

2011 Chevy Silverado under construction

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I got mad before on that old post you commented on and wasn’t accurate on. But that isn’t a big deal and it happens. Just because I don’t like a comment doesn’t mean I don’t like that person and doesn’t stop me from helping that person. Sfb’s are current hungry amps. You either need to switch to lithium or get a bigger alternator and a tad more agm. There are companies that would make you an alternator. You have to email JS alternators or message brand x on Facebook. No worries. They are both good and trusted companies. What type of subwoofer are you using?

:stupid:“How can we help you?”
:guido:
“And don’t forget to tell them that 
the customer isn’t always right.”

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