loganberry Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 that's shitty. Lol. Could at least take out the stock speaker grille and do something about it? fiberglass? he was here for a matter of hours, i offered for me to try glass, and if mine turned out bad i could get one of you guys and he said he would talk to his wife....so ill keep you posted....and the stock speaker grill is part of the whole door pannel....was not so much to do, he wasnt over here for long My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 could you cut a 3/4 mdf ring and then mount it behind the door panel? Im not gonna dog ya to bad, but you can do better than that, helll you could jave came over here and I would helped you if needed. where is the rest of the build pix ( box) how come you didnt flush in the woofer? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loganberry Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 could you cut a 3/4 mdf ring and then mount it behind the door panel? Im not gonna dog ya to bad, but you can do better than that, helll you could jave came over here and I would helped you if needed. where is the rest of the build pix ( box) how come you didnt flush in the woofer? yea i could have, but like i said he was not over here long....i could have done better with more time for sure, but he was here for a lil under 2 hours....didnt take to many pix, my phone has been messed up and what not, the box is good though.. i took my time, and i didnt flush mount it, cause tbh..i dont care for the way it looks, and no i couldnt use a 3/4 ring, with the mid how it is there is barely 1/4 inch of clearence from the magnet to the window when rolled down My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trainman0978 Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 which is exactly why i did it but i got flamed for it oh well. looks goo though and to chris.. i tried the mdf paste and i didnt like it to much. i would just rather spend the little $5 more to get the quart of wood filler that elmers has and be done with it than having to mix up wood glue and MDF dust. wood glue costs monedy too and i even started dipping my screws in it before i put it in so that way all i had to do was smooth it over the top of the screw when i got through. First off, If you are gonna use the caulk on every box you build... Here is a little tip. You can make it look ALOT cleaner doing a couple of different things. Cut the tip on the tube really close to the end. You don't need a big ass hole the same same diameter as the tibe to push the caulk out. This is why the end is tapered off, so you can vary the thickness of the bead you dispense. Cut it at a angle , 45 degrees or better. Just nip off the very edge of the tip. ... When you go to smooth the bead out with your finger, get a cup of warm water and put a little dish soap in it, stir it up good, keep stirring and the suds will settle down. Dip your finger into the soapy water mix before you touch your freshly laid caulk. The caulk won't stick to your finger and will spread out nice and smooth and you won't end up with caulk several inches wide and all over the inside edges of your box. keep a rag in hand clean your "putty knife/finger" often and wet your finger just as much. Your results will look alot better, and you will get a more "professional" finish , kinda like painters and tile guys do in new home construction..... I wasn't trying to flame you for it, And requoting what I said in your build is just as appropriate here. Technically is does not matter how messy it is, or how little or how much somebody decides to use in a enclosure assembly, It is just a matter of making one's work look neat and tidy as you post pics for the internet world to see. with MDF and well any wood, a Glue like tite bond is chemically designed to fuse the wood together by embedding it self in the grain or fibers of the material. The glue will actually perform the job of caulk when used correctly. Also, when using caulk, let it cure before putting the subs into it, I read somewhere that the fumes from the drying caulk can do damage to subwoofers... 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Voo Doo Blue my upgrades and "build" thread. My Kulicki Box Build -Alpine 9887 head unit, KTX-100EQ imprint-( sound quality for dummies! ). - MB Quartz 3.5" in back pillars -Sundown Audio SAX100.4 - JL Audio 3 way 6.5" component set XR653-CSi ( doors and dash ) -JL Audio 2 way Component set XR650CSi - Alpine MRD - M1005 - Alpine Type - R 12" subs -- 2 - 12" s in a Pete kulicki designed box. -Alpine High speed Ipod cable, and KCA-SC100 with Sirius sat. radio -All wiring is Stinger 12 gauge and HPM Level 3 RCAs, KnuKonceptz Kolossus Power and ground and Big done in 1/0, -270 sq. ft. of Damplifier Pro, 36 sq. ft. of Overkill Pro, 6 full sheets of Luxury Liner, and a gallon of spectrum- -2 Powermaster D680 Powercells in back FINALLY !!! I GOT IT METERED ON THE TERMLAB !!! I did a 140.2 at 42 hertz. Shoehorn, BFH, forklift,duct tape and some zip ties Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 yes trainman silicon caulking can be bad for subwoofers if you dont let it cure first ( the fumes will soften some of the glues used in making the sub) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loganberry Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 yes trainman silicon caulking can be bad for subwoofers if you dont let it cure first ( the fumes will soften some of the glues used in making the sub)i let it dry overnight... My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mouse Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 no other way to do it at all, and plus its how he wanted it, i just did what he told me to no the magnet hits on the window (so you cant roll it down) and the basket hits on the stock cut out, i could have cut it bigger, but dosnt do much when he cant roll down his window IM NOT PUTTING YOUR INSTALL DOWN !, if your customer was happy then it was enuff. 3/4 spacers do work for that door panel, I have used them more then once. METRA makes a set that is compatible for most 6 1/2 - 7 inch speakers, for when time is limited they are like 10 bucks at bestbuy, circuit city, etc. If the speaker basket is still too big you can cut the METRA made abs plastic spacers with a dremel in 2 minutes. Beats the hell out of ruining a door panel with no intention of a more cosmetical install (fiberglass) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loganberry Posted July 20, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 IM NOT PUTTING YOUR INSTALL DOWN !, if your customer was happy then it was enuff. 3/4 spacers do work for that door panel, I have used them more then once. METRA makes a set that is compatible for most 6 1/2 - 7 inch speakers, for when time is limited they are like 10 bucks at bestbuy, circuit city, etc. If the speaker basket is still too big you can cut the METRA made abs plastic spacers with a dremel in 2 minutes. Beats the hell out of ruining a door panel with no intention of a more cosmetical install (fiberglass) thanks for the tips, i knew cc and bb had that stuff, but my clostest one is an hour away...i think fiberglass will be in order...they are not horable looking but they are not as sleek as they could be. My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 no the magnet hits on the window (so you cant roll it down) and the basket hits on the stock cut out, i could have cut it bigger, but dosnt do much when he cant roll down his windowhow could you tell if it hit the window if the basket was too big for the cutout? yea i could have, but like i said he was not over here long....i could have done better with more time for sure, but he was here for a lil under 2 hours....didnt take to many pix, my phone has been messed up and what not, the box is good though.. i took my time, and i didnt flush mount it, cause tbh..i dont care for the way it looks, and no i couldnt use a 3/4 ring, with the mid how it is there is barely 1/4 inch of clearence from the magnet to the window when rolled downyou just said the it hit the window, but now its 1/4" away from it? you confuse people Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AI James Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 hope you did it all for free, other wise id want a refund. half ass mid install, half ass box, time isnt an excuse, if someone doesnt have time for me to do it right they dont get thier shit installed by me period. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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