newls1 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Two stock alts would have a little better low RPM output than a single 300 amp unit, but a little less on top. I would do it if you can get the bracket cheap.$61 for a stock AD244 sounds awfull cheap though, I would make sure you are getting the right thing. It might just be a CS130D which only does 70/105amps stock. Lester Numbering system is a 8237, this is a 140amp alt.... I pay 61.74 for this particular unit. You all have talked me into it, MLA does it again! Quote I love my staffie So anti FACEBOOK it isn't even funny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fourlug Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 dual alts ftw!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 man i wish i had a tahoe. damn!!!! two stock alt (140) sounds lovely with an MLA module Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 besides the amperage, the awe factor when opening your hood to see 2 alts is a plus and now since you have the bracket, you can upgrade to bigger and better in the future dammit joe, you beat me by 1 min doesnt surprise me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spl explorer Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 (edited) Go for it 100%. Chris from MLA runs dual stock alts in the hummer on 20K watts. Ask him bout it, he'll tell you. If you can get stock alts that cheap then you have nothing to lose... Edit: Dual stock alts with the MLA module :hairtrick: Edited August 5, 2008 by spl explorer Quote Rollerz Only - Sacramento Chapter. 6 Time Lowrider Magazine club of the year 94 Xploder on 22s - Gutted for now... 87 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham on hydros, fully euroed out Tookie blue *ROLLERZ ONLY MAFIA* Crankin the volume knob and hittin switches. http://www.rollerzonly.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigPimpin91 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Dual stocks = 1 280amp. Plus, two separate cases so they won't heat up as fast and have a larger surface area to dissipate heat. Quote BigPimpin91's Banging Music Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McLovin Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Id also look into putting smaller pulleys on it. then it thnks its running faster at idle and keep up ur amps. Quote Credo Quia Absurdum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Id also look into putting smaller pulleys on it. then it thnks its running faster at idle and keep up ur amps. We have really small pulleys if you need a couple. Quote 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISO Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 I have been looking at this for awhile. I do feel its better to stay with factory alts over H/O alts 1 Reliability 2 Warranty 3 They should work perfect everytime and all the time. I just had the 85/140 amp option done to my CS130 witch used to be a 105 amp I get a one year warranty and all the other benefits becuase it was a GM opton for the CS130 and I shouldn't have to worry about it. So I'm going to add another CS130 bumped up to 140 and I should be in 3,000 watt land. 280 amps Stock alts = reliability IMO Quote Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 I have been looking at this for awhile. I do feel its better to stay with factory alts over H/O alts1 Reliability 2 Warranty 3 They should work perfect everytime and all the time. I just had the 85/140 amp option done to my CS130 witch used to be a 105 amp I get a one year warranty and all the other benefits becuase it was a GM opton for the CS130 and I shouldn't have to worry about it. So I'm going to add another CS130 bumped up to 140 and I should be in 3,000 watt land. 280 amps Stock alts = reliability IMO You're general theory is correct. An alternator is never going to be more than 60% thermally efficient with off-the-shelf regulator and rectifier technology. The higher amperage potential of the unit, the more heat it can produce. As a rule of thumb, heat is the alternator killer. That being said, you have to cmpare the heat disipating, and heat handling caricteristics of the components between the stock and the "HO" alternator. By converting over to a physically larger case alternator, you gain more surface area of case to disipate heat, larger Fans, and typically an overall larger rectifier assymbly. The difference between an AD244(large case) and a CS130D (stock small case) is signifigant. The diffence in surface area is aprox. 40%. An OE rectifier assymbly uses tiny 30 amp diodes that are soldered to the surface of the rectifier plate. Under high-heat conditions, the solder melts out, or the small diode itself burns up. This is one of the most common alternator failures. A well built HO alternator would use a much more expensive HD rectifier cut out of solid copper instead of aluminum; which gives it better conductive properties. A high quality HD rectifier would also use press-fit 70 amp diodes which are much larger, can handle more heat before failure, and can disipate heat more quickly to the rectifier plate becasue of all the contact surface are achieved by being pressed into the plate. A good HO stator would be spec'd out to use extra high heat winding sleeves, which would prevent melting and running in-between the rotor and stator at high temperatures. A premium high output unit would also use a digital regulator with oversized heat sink for regulator durability. In order to handle the additional amp draw of a low impedance rotor, these regulators have substantially beefier circuitry, and better heat resistance at a byproduct. Finnally, a good HO alternator would use premium NTN bearings with synthetic lubricant to better withstand heat and RPM. I'm not saying that running two stock alts isn't a good idea, they will work great for you. I'm merely pointing out that there are more factors to consider when comparing the heat issues between a stock and properly built high output alternator. Quote 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.