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no i dont. i took those a few minutes ago. i soldered that over a month ago haha. ill get new tips soon and do the rest. i might make a video. we'll see.

once you unsolder the original tinsel, you will see how to get it through the cone. it just pulls out. then just push the new one through.

Once you push the new ones in you solder it to the cone, or you glue it? from my understanding you unsolder the tensil from the cone, push the new ones in, than glue it to the cone, than sodder the tensil to the coil.

is that right?

Fear The Quack!

duckoc3.jpg

Shot at 2007-08-19

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Chevy, that looks like the same exact sub as twigz. Did the same thing happen to your subs?

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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I guess DC's are not glued.

Normally speakers that have the tinsels comming through the cones at a higher level (not right next to the coil) will be glued.

Its still good pratice to glue them down after you resolder the new ones.

The solder joint is a secure way for attaching wires together, but there is nothing to keep that chunk of solder from bouncing all over the cone and sometime soon failing.

I fixed some cerwin vega pros with new tinsels and they where shot in a week becasue the solder let go and broke off the wire from the coil. Solder wont bond to a paper cone.

I look at it as good pratice improving upon manufactures design.

 

 

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as far as i know (since mine pulled out) theyre not glued to the cone. theyre just soldered to the voice coil.

and yes, that looks like black ca glue to meh.

I circled it in red.

tinsel-1.jpg

My old dd cones, but the tinsels come through the cone at a much higher level then the dc's.

09-09-08_2353.jpg

Edited by audiofanaticz

 

 

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Chevy, that looks like the same exact sub as twigz. Did the same thing happen to your subs?

i bought mine used knowing about this.

and yes, that looks like black ca glue to meh.

I circled it in red.

yea, at long as you glue the solder back in, theres no way its gonna break. these were BURIED in glue haha thanks for the workout rusty

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I guess this has something to do with this... Dont think a new thread is worth it though...

But what do you use to reglue the dust caps? Mine came off and ive tried reglueing it to no avail.

So im curious what you use to keep the dust cap glued down?

ca glue

REST IN PARADISE BIG RICH (Sqmonte) never forgotten

Why do you guys ALWAYS dispute on NUMBERS?????

It's such a played out argument, so fucking annoying....

It's 12 fuckin 15's.... It's louder than you... Shut the fuck up...

/Rant

:)

I'm so jealous, it makes me want to club baby seals. That shit gets down HARD!

dont buy from knowledge he will scam you.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/30995-official-knowledge-feedback/

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I guess this has something to do with this... Dont think a new thread is worth it though...

But what do you use to reglue the dust caps? Mine came off and ive tried reglueing it to no avail.

So im curious what you use to keep the dust cap glued down?

5 min epoxy made by loctite will work awesome. You should more than likely use CA glue, but that's what failed on my subs so instead of regluing it with CA I used the 2 part loctite epoxy. That shit is way stronger than CA. Use it for anything and it will hold forever.

2013 VW Jetta GLI 2.0 Turbo

1 Sundown Audio SCV2000

1 Sundown Audio X15 V2

1 XS Power D3100

Audio Control LC6i

Stock Deck

146.4 sealed on the dash at 37hz

2001 Focus ZX3: RETIRED

Team Sundown Audio, Team XS Power, 2 time NSPL Car 3601-Up Champion, 2 time NSPL Car Hardcore Champion
Highest NSPL Scores to date:
154.3db on the dash sealed at 46hz, 156.2db in the kick at 46hz
155.2db unofficial on dash at 43hz

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