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Posted

alright well my current set up is pissing me off so i am changing out everything. but if some of you rememember my was goes past my b-piller which it isnt supposed to do. so i was wondering if it wont hurt anything to cut out the rear deck? if cutting out the entire thing isnt good how much can you cut off without hurting everything?

and for those of you who are wondering, that van idea is no more. the tranny went out of it so if i build a van im buying a different one now. but im stuck with the car so i might as well learn some more shit before i start building crazy systems xD

1992 cavalier build

1992 blazer s10

kenwood cd

hifonics hfi2500d

6 soon to be 12 12" hifonics hfi12d4's

shit ton-o-wire

Blurred Vision Audio

Team SMD

feedback/refs. clicky!-

Posted
alright well my current set up is pissing me off so i am changing out everything. but if some of you rememember my was goes past my b-piller which it isnt supposed to do. so i was wondering if it wont hurt anything to cut out the rear deck? if cutting out the entire thing isnt good how much can you cut off without hurting everything?

and for those of you who are wondering, that van idea is no more. the tranny went out of it so if i build a van im buying a different one now. but im stuck with the car so i might as well learn some more shit before i start building crazy systems xD

When I was gonna wall my dads buick I was just gonna cut the whole rear deck out lol....I didn't really care about the structural integrity of the car.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

Posted

see/ iamamp3pimp's build

you can cook bacon shirtless if you're not a pussy...lol

not hatin, but am i wrong here it looks as if the amp is not grounded its hooked directly to the battery. it that the way it should be.

intr.jpg

DC.jpgDC POWER

Posted

will do, but i am selling everything i own. subs, amp, HU. with that money i am rebuilding my entire car.

**another question i am planning on doing three sides for subs. one straight on in the middle and the other two slanted so i can fit six subs in my car. is this going to cancle at all?

i also dont give a damn about the car, i just dont want like the rear window to shatter because of lack of support.

1992 cavalier build

1992 blazer s10

kenwood cd

hifonics hfi2500d

6 soon to be 12 12" hifonics hfi12d4's

shit ton-o-wire

Blurred Vision Audio

Team SMD

feedback/refs. clicky!-

Posted

I did it :D

But my box fits tight so the remaining sheet metal actually squeezes the box.

As of now I have had 0 issues although I plan on welding supports as soon as the funds are there.

BTW I cut all but the last 6 inches below the window and maybe 8 inches L and R of the box.

Posted

i wouldnt do it in a cavalier. the car is a unibody and the rear deck actually provides structural integrity. It could be really bad if you do.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

Posted

i havnt checked a cavalier recently, but i believe its some thin guage stamped sheetmetal with a bunch of holes cut in it and little to no auxiliary support

i'd say analyze it, cut out what youc an, and weld in a support hoop (like from the floor of the trunk, up the sides, and around under the deck near where the window hits the deck, if you're still concerned

cars are built surprisingly strong, and unless youre planning on racing this when youre done, or taking it jumping over railroad tracks, you should be cool

that said, i jumped mine over railroad tracks, and now the top of my front doors hit the tops of my passenger doors....ouch

Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build

monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now)

Team DC

Posted

well i am planning on putting metal bracing all the way around the box and was planning on welding it to shit when i did it. there is no point in cutting all of it since i need to keep the 3rd break light so it will have a little metal there, right now it is a huge space and for what im planning i need a larger box and have to keep it behind the b-piller.

i am happy with my system now exept one thing. it is really loud, flexes everything in and around the car, but i cant do a hair trick and its pissing me off. so im stepping up to 6 15" subs and more power. i would like to stick with dc because rusty is awsome and i love his products, but i cant afford two more let along find another amp to power just two. so my plan is 6 RE SR or kicker CVR's. im probably going with the RE since everyone and there grandma has kicker and i never really liked the way kickers sounded. also i want to maintain sql and im guessing the re's have better sound quality. im hoping with 6 15" i can get a 150 non fart can lol

1992 cavalier build

1992 blazer s10

kenwood cd

hifonics hfi2500d

6 soon to be 12 12" hifonics hfi12d4's

shit ton-o-wire

Blurred Vision Audio

Team SMD

feedback/refs. clicky!-

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