creyc Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 (edited) Not if I don't set the gain for more than 3kW I don't have an O-scope so I don't know exactly how much the amp could put out at 0.5 ohms, thus I would stick to what I KNOW it will do at least, 3000 RMS. Not sure if this helps explain my situation, but here's an impedance graph I made at 2-ohm nominal. Even though its 2 ohm, with box rise the MINIMUM my amp sees is 3.5 ohms, slightly below tuning frequency in the low 30's. I'm sure if I kept the volume way way down I could safely create a new impedance chart at 0.5 ohms just for testing purposes. If the results were that impedance never dropped below 1-ohm, would I be fairly safe? As for not being able to keep voltage up, I find hard to believe. The alt does 250A conservatively (not at idle of course), and the amp is only fused 50A higher, at 300A. The battery suggestions posted here seem quite over the top for 3000 watts RMS on music. But you guys have more experience with this than I, so I guess I'll stay with 2-ohms. Edited February 1, 2009 by creyc Quote 2001 Chevy Blazer (2) SAZ-3000Ds (2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall Rockford 600-4 Pioneer PRS components Pioneer P800PRS deck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torres Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 i say...if you have to ask if you can run it at .5 ohms...then you probably shouldnt. kinda an experience thing to know what you need/dont need. like the batteries. sure...that may be a lot of batts...but you're also running amps at a LOW ohm load. give a lil take a lil nawhamsayin?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kian Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 Not if I don't set the gain for more than 3kW I don't have an O-scope so I don't know exactly how much the amp could put out at 0.5 ohms, thus I would stick to what I KNOW it will do at least, 3000 RMS. How did you do that graph? Quote --------------------------------------------------------------- Club 150 (15x.x) Youtube Future Build: 1x 15" T3 TSNS 2x Sundown Audio SAZ3000d Parellel strapped Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creyc Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 (edited) I just put a clamp meter on the speaker wire from the amp and a DMM on the output terminals of the amp and recorded the readings from 20-70Hz, at 1Hz increments. Then you toss it all in an excel spreadsheet (with the help of ohms law) and let it calculate your impedance values, (voltage/amps) and finally graph those new calculated values. Edited February 1, 2009 by creyc Quote 2001 Chevy Blazer (2) SAZ-3000Ds (2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall Rockford 600-4 Pioneer PRS components Pioneer P800PRS deck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Derrick824 Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 As for not being able to keep voltage up, I find hard to believe. The alt does 250A conservatively (not at idle of course), and the amp is only fused 50A higher, at 300A. The battery suggestions posted here seem quite over the top for 3000 watts RMS on music. But you guys have more experience with this than I, so I guess I'll stay with 2-ohms. The amp is rated 300a current draw @ 1ohm. At 0.5ohm it will easily draw 400+. Of course there are lots of factors that can change that and if you don't run it full tilt by settign your gains conservatively then you won't see that much. All my recommendations are given assuming you'll be running the amplifier to it's fullest potential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creyc Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I didn't even consider fusing higher, but that makes sense given that it will put out a bit more power AND run quite a bit less efficiently = more current draw. I DO plan on running this amp conservatively, heck I already am running at 2 ohms, but I would love to get more out of it SAFELY. I don't have the funds to replace equipment by continuously pushing it to its limit, and I'm not a competitor. I'm looking for long term reliability, at or around 3000 watts. From what most of you have said, it sounds like 0.5 is really pushing this amp for long term reliability. That's not what I'm after. Quote 2001 Chevy Blazer (2) SAZ-3000Ds (2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall Rockford 600-4 Pioneer PRS components Pioneer P800PRS deck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Torres Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 honestly...if you can keep the voltage stable, and all you wanna do is add a 'few' more watts to your subs, i think you would be ok. since you wouldnt be pushing the amp very hard. but also... .5 ohms voids warranty. keep that in mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest digitalboy Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 IMO the amps were made to drop below half. We have 2 SAZ-1500's at .5 each daily, on 2 IA 21"s. Have no problems at all. But ask Jacob directly for best opinion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted February 1, 2009 Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 I would use his trade-in program and get two 1500ds.... Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
creyc Posted February 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2009 (edited) I HAD two SAE-1000D's and bridging them was a miserable experience. I'm not sure if it was bridging related but I also had some bad noise issues in that setup. Efficiency was crap, they got quite warm during use and the stronger one ultimately ended up killing the other one. (or something to that effect, Chris at dB R fixed it up for me) I was never happy with that setup. Now running one amp I have none of those issues, the amp runs COLD all day long, piece of cake to wire up, and voltage doesn't so much as drop even slightly. Plus I just bought the 3000D, so I'm not ready to get rid of it just yet. I could however grab another 3000D and just keep the gains at around 1500 RMS each, which should be quite a bit louder and still quite efficient. Edited February 1, 2009 by creyc Quote 2001 Chevy Blazer (2) SAZ-3000Ds (2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall Rockford 600-4 Pioneer PRS components Pioneer P800PRS deck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.