_AnGeL_ Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 ok so i know many people here are against using caps, i know they say its an added strain on the alt instead of helping.. but how would i make other people understand this? see someone on another forum posted something about car audio and i tired to help, he wanted to buy a cap and i told him not to, just save up and buy an added battery... so everyone else is telling me that caps help and people in competitions use caps etc.... so how do i make them understand my point? without coming off as a d bag? should i just leave it be? Quote Head Unit: Pioneer Premier Deh-600ub Front Stage: (2) Whip Audio 8" Mid-Bass (2) Whip Auido 6" Mid & (2) Audiopipe ATX-3720 Amps: (2) Cadence TXA300-4 Amp Kit: Knukonceptz Coming Soon: already ordered Sub: 2 DD T1508's Amp: Sundown saz-1500 Tired of the lag? Come get crunk! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stayfly33 Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 im curious about this also i dont see alot of setups with caps though so thats why im wondering Quote Bass is my drug. One hit and i was hooked. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted February 27, 2009 Report Share Posted February 27, 2009 Remind them of the fact that a cap has less energy in it than a 9v battery? The problem is that in SOME circumstances a cap does actually help Just for 99% of people they don't do anything. Tell them to find you a single SPL competitor at world finals using a 1 farad bling bling cap Quote 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kryptonite Posted March 1, 2009 Report Share Posted March 1, 2009 Caps won't do much of anything other than fry out if they are being used in a system where the amp pushes more than 500 rms, atleast that's my take from what i've noticed Quote DC SOUND LAB NUT HUGGERCurrently Own 4 - 18" lvl 6s (m3) w/full Carbon Fiber option 2 - DC 5k lvl 4 motor lvl 2 motor On 8/2/2013 at 8:13 PM, n8ball2013 said: this is much worse. Its old n8 without the time or patience to hold fucking hands. I'm supposed to be doing school work but yet here i am making sure jr fuck fuck isn't trying to poke the other kids with a stick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 fyi, steve was (and might still be) using caps in the honda. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uhoh_45 Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 Remind them of the fact that a cap has less energy in it than a 9v battery?The problem is that in SOME circumstances a cap does actually help Just for 99% of people they don't do anything. Tell them to find you a single SPL competitor at world finals using a 1 farad bling bling cap actually im not sure if anyone now adays is but for the longest time alot of competitors used caps for there deck so the deck wouldnt shut off Quote R.I.P! (Nov-29-2009) 92 explorer - 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz BUILD LOG current build 97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0 lumina build log Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 fyi, steve was (and might still be) using caps in the honda. Yup and they are the real deal...not those junk caps... Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
troy Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 caps have their place and just have to be used right. of course a 1 farad cap isnt going to do anything burping a system or an a high powered system. but they do have their place they just need to be used right. Quote retarded build on the way..... 2000 bagged s10 2 hdc3 15s aq2200 aq4x90 stinger/knu wire optima batteries 220 amp alt fosgate hu/mids and highs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
solo z Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 umm ok like where? lol what is there place what part do they play in a electrical system? if its a small quick 9volt charge like someone compared it..... i cant see WTF even a 5 Farad cap would be doing in the trunk with a HC1800 or anything similiar??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team_DC-Derrick Posted March 2, 2009 Report Share Posted March 2, 2009 Holy Cow there's a bunch of mis-information in this thread about caps. Caps work - period. But how? Simple . . . capacitors do TWO things:1. Store charge 2. Oppose changes in voltage Now, both of those things sound mighty nice to me. To understand how a cap benefits a car audio system, one has to first understand that there are TWO separate voltage plateaus available in an automobile: 1. Running - With the alternator charging, voltages will typically be from 13.8 to 14.4 VDC 2. Not running - With the alternator IDLE, voltages will typically be from 12.0 to 12.6 VDC I'll take the higher of the two any day. For UNREGULATED amps, this allows them to draw MORE current therby making more power. For REGULATED amps, this allows them to draw LESS current to make their rated power. Either way, it's a WIN for you. So, how do we ensure the higher of the two? Again, simple. With the vehicle running, consider the DELTA between what the alternator can make and what the nominal voltage the batteries can provide is. For this example, lets assume 14.4 VDC - 12.6 VDC = 1.8 VDC. When we exceed the current output capability of the alternator, it's voltage output is compromised. In some cases, heavy demands of amplifiers can far exceed the current capability of the alternator, leaving us with only the reserve of current within the battery. But, car batteries weren't intended to power amplifiers . . . they were intended to start cars [battery = Load with vehicle running.] A really fresh car battery can do this for a while, but given that we're exceeding the output capability of the alternator, it's charge isn't getting replenished quickly enough - need about 13.0 VDC minimum to allow charge to flow back into the battery. A properly sized capacitor will change the rules. With the vehicle running, it stores charge at the higher voltage plateau - 14.4 Volts. As the amplifiers demand current, it will flow from the place of least resistance . . . Ohm's Law tells us that happens to be the place with the highest voltage. That will be in order: 1. The capacitor (closest) 2. The alternator 3. The battery Ideally, you've selected the correct size capacitor for your system's needs. And . . . that "30F" cap that sells for $59 in a blue velvet box with chrome and a big blue LED readout is just a glorified volt meter These devices have ZERO benefit. There is a reason why quality capacitors cost money, and ours are no exception. These are the facts: 1. A 1 Farad capacitor can store and release 72 Joules (watt*second) of energy at 12 Volts. 2. Said capacitor can charge and discharge hundreds of times faster than an automitive battery of any kind. 3. Capacitors present nearly no load to a properly set up charging system. 4. Automotive batteries require 7 to 10 amps of current EACH to allow charge to flow into them. 5. Capacitors work GREAT for every day street systems. 6. The benefits or capacitors are negated in SPL competitions. For best results, I recommend locating capacitors within a foot of the amplifier - as in, no more than 12 inches of wire between the capacitor and the amplifier. The further away from the amp they are, the less of a benefit they offer. I have used them my systems for a very long time . . . since about 1986. quote taken from this thread here http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=14041 Quote The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube Team DC Audio where theres a will theres a wall....... I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.