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got a debate with some people over sub break in at low power. I know it is recommended but it isnt in a single manual for mainstream products. (im not talking spl super high end stuff here) so what do you guys think? for daily driver setups under 1000 wrms per sub no break in needed or not?

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i dont..i play at low volume for few minutes to make sure everything is in order,then just hit it

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Break in is loosening up the suspension. Not going to happen if you are playing it with low power. Have to get everything moving.

As already stated, take it easy to make sure everything is connected correctly, then let it rip.

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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Depends on who you ask. I used to do it, don't anymore. I say let 'em wang.

2001 Chevy Impala

Eclipse CD7200 mkii

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Sundown 100.4

(2) Fi BTL 18s (walled)

ID 6.5s (2 sets)

Iraggi 320 amp Alt

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KnuKonceptz Wiring

MidwestSPL Scores:

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another issue from what my old boss just told me is the settling of glue. You don't just get a engine rebuilt, and take it straight to the track and race it do you? you let the engine break in, start off slow, and slowly over a period of time/miles push it harder and harder

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another issue from what my old boss just told me is the settling of glue. You don't just get a engine rebuilt, and take it straight to the track and race it do you? you let the engine break in, start off slow, and slowly over a period of time/miles push it harder and harder

Actually, no. I've always heard that on a engine re-build, you should break it in the way you intend to drive it. Same thing goes for breaking in subs IMO.

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you can just drive a car without breaking it in. it just helps it last longer if you break it in (or so that's the myth). subs DO break in. do you need to start slow? i dont think so. i might give it a week b4 going full tilt on new subs but im at 80% for that week.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

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Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

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Touchy subject this. Anyone familiar with the high-end home audio scene will know it supposedly goes for capacitors in xovers and amps, and interconnects too.

IMO, subs do need a certain amount of break in as they are mechanical things. A good designer will design the sub to have the published parameters once the surround and spider have been flexed and softened up a bit. Playing a test tone at a high enough volume to move the cone a bit will break it in.

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pretty much what I was telling the guy, His whole argument is this: call the tech line for any brand and they will tell you not to rip on a sub out of the box. well duh. but if it was required like he says it is why isnt it in the damn manual? he had no answer other than "call tech support and ask them" he thinks because he is a dealer he knows it all and he doesn't lolz. 20+ yrs installing systems for a living and I have never broke in a sub.

btw race engines dont get broke in. we race 1/4 mile and circle track here in colorado and race engines get rebuilt so much it doesnt matter, for a daily driver you break it in when you first fire it up and get the cam and lifters seated then you drive it no special treatment required for 90% of the engines. if it was rebuilt right it is already broke in during the install.

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