whitedragon551 Posted May 9, 2009 Report Posted May 9, 2009 Im just looking for something cheap somewhere in the $20 ball park with shipping. I found a set of PG RSD tweets with the x-over for $20 shipped. Are these tweeters and x-overs decent enough for daily listening? Or have any of you played with any of these: Soundstream TWS.4 Planet Audio P18TW MA Audio MA588 Cadence ZRS75-T Quote The System In Progress Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2 Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200 Front Stage: PG RSD5cs Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary) Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking) Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge
audiofanaticz Posted May 9, 2009 Report Posted May 9, 2009 they are most likely better then anythign else in your list. Quote
wL<3bass Posted May 9, 2009 Report Posted May 9, 2009 If you don't buy them mind passing the lnik or info onto me...I need another set of xovers and tweets. Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
whitedragon551 Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Posted May 9, 2009 Im getting them if I cant find a better deal. Quote The System In Progress Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2 Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200 Front Stage: PG RSD5cs Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary) Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking) Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge
whitedragon551 Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Posted May 9, 2009 Thats what I figured. Whats the diameter of the tweeter? I cant find specs for it. Quote The System In Progress Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2 Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200 Front Stage: PG RSD5cs Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary) Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking) Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge
wL<3bass Posted May 9, 2009 Report Posted May 9, 2009 Thats what I figured. Whats the diameter of the tweeter? I cant find specs for it. For flushmount 2". Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
whitedragon551 Posted May 9, 2009 Author Report Posted May 9, 2009 Hmm probably flush mount is the way Ill go. Is there screw holes to put in or does it just push in? Quote The System In Progress Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2 Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200 Front Stage: PG RSD5cs Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary) Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking) Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge
audiofanaticz Posted May 9, 2009 Report Posted May 9, 2009 Flush mounting the tweeters will usally have some sort of a cup that the tweet rests in, then you just cut a hole in the door panel or where ever your mounting the tweeters (just make sure you have enough clearence behind the panel or where ever your mounting them before cutting a hole). Theres a lot of different ways for securing the flushmount tweeters in. It seems to vary with company to company. I know Alpine uses a flush mount cub that goes thru the hole and the back side of the cup is threaded and comes with a big nut so to say you screw on agaist the back and this holds them in place really tight. I really think alpine has the best setup for mounting imo. Diamond audio also uses the same technique as the alpines. Then some other companies use just little metal brackets that are bent kinda funky and they get screwed into the tweeter cup with a screw, but these prongs never seem to hold completly tight and bend sometimes over time or get a little loose. I guess some of these brackets work better then others, some have 4 tabs while some only have 2 tabs that hold the tweeter tight to the door. I know the Power Acoustik NB.1 and NB.2 use the 2 prong metal tabs to hold them in. Im trying to find pics of the mounting hardware for this style but not much luck. Quote
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