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Tweeter Vs Tweeter


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Im just looking for something cheap somewhere in the $20 ball park with shipping. I found a set of PG RSD tweets with the x-over for $20 shipped. Are these tweeters and x-overs decent enough for daily listening?

Or have any of you played with any of these:

Soundstream TWS.4

Planet Audio P18TW

MA Audio MA588

Cadence ZRS75-T

The System In Progress

Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP

Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2

Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz

Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200

Front Stage: PG RSD5cs

Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary)

Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking)

Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge

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If you don't buy them mind passing the lnik or info onto me...I need another set of xovers and tweets.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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Im getting them if I cant find a better deal.

The System In Progress

Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP

Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2

Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz

Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200

Front Stage: PG RSD5cs

Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary)

Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking)

Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge

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Thats what I figured. Whats the diameter of the tweeter? I cant find specs for it.

The System In Progress

Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP

Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2

Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz

Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200

Front Stage: PG RSD5cs

Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary)

Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking)

Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge

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Share on other sites

Thats what I figured. Whats the diameter of the tweeter? I cant find specs for it.

For flushmount 2".

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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Hmm probably flush mount is the way Ill go. Is there screw holes to put in or does it just push in?

The System In Progress

Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP

Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2

Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz

Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200

Front Stage: PG RSD5cs

Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary)

Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking)

Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge

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Flush mounting the tweeters will usally have some sort of a cup that the tweet rests in, then you just cut a hole in the door panel or where ever your mounting the tweeters (just make sure you have enough clearence behind the panel or where ever your mounting them before cutting a hole).

Theres a lot of different ways for securing the flushmount tweeters in. It seems to vary with company to company. I know Alpine uses a flush mount cub that goes thru the hole and the back side of the cup is threaded and comes with a big nut so to say you screw on agaist the back and this holds them in place really tight. I really think alpine has the best setup for mounting imo.

spr17s.jpg

Diamond audio also uses the same technique as the alpines.

s600s-07.jpg

Then some other companies use just little metal brackets that are bent kinda funky and they get screwed into the tweeter cup with a screw, but these prongs never seem to hold completly tight and bend sometimes over time or get a little loose. I guess some of these brackets work better then others, some have 4 tabs while some only have 2 tabs that hold the tweeter tight to the door. I know the Power Acoustik NB.1 and NB.2 use the 2 prong metal tabs to hold them in. Im trying to find pics of the mounting hardware for this style but not much luck. :(

 

 

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