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Sub Screws


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so have someone hold it until all 4 sides are in tight...? I normally just did the top and bottom then let go and did the rest.

EDIT- Then how are some screws still in the box? its almost like its too small.

Edited by mxman38
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I've tried using the t-nuts on other boxes and the ones I've used, the prongs would just bend and they would strip out and just spin. I don't know If I was using cheap ones, but they just didn't work well with MDF for me. Since then I just went back to the good ol black 2inch sheet-rock screws with no problem. If you double baffle, screws should do just fine (2-cents)

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I've tried using the t-nuts on other boxes and the ones I've used, the prongs would just bend and they would strip out and just spin. I don't know If I was using cheap ones, but they just didn't work well with MDF for me. Since then I just went back to the good ol black 2inch sheet-rock screws with no problem. If you double baffle, screws should do just fine (2-cents)

I've had the problem where the t-nuts would turn on ya bending the prongs. What I do now is instead of trying to hammer the nuts on, I just start it on the end of the bolt, apply some wood glue to the underside of the t-nut (where it touches the wood) and then pull it into the wood by turning the bolts. Once the glue dries, they aren't going anywhere.

97 Maxima SE

Bunch of shit going in, check out the build

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these will work very well

2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's

2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine.

2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's

2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint

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I've had the problem where the t-nuts would turn on ya bending the prongs. What I do now is instead of trying to hammer the nuts on, I just start it on the end of the bolt, apply some wood glue to the underside of the t-nut (where it touches the wood) and then pull it into the wood by turning the bolts. Once the glue dries, they aren't going anywhere.

Good idea right ther, may give them another try, ok sorry no more thread jacking for me.

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i usually use 4 of the #8 wood screws and 4 i think they are called pan head screws.... and i never have any problems.... i dont use wood screws if the subs are really heavy or im inverting the subs....

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/79921-rogers-700-dream-car-update-page-17-a-wall/?p=2335774

93 Saturn SC2My system4 SA-15's Walled

2 Cerwin-Vega S2000's

3 Kinetik Hc2000's

Dual 200amp alts.

you guys done with the peepee touching contest or do I need to end it?

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I find that the 4 prong T-nuts work much better than the 3 prong version. Also, I always drill the mounting holes smaller than the barrel of the T-nut so you end up with a press fit into the wood. It helps prevent the T-nuts from spinning and bending the prongs over.

"I don't bullshit. I do what I say & say what I mean."

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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2925230

http://www.armoredhaulin.com

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I use #12 machine screws. Pre-drill an 1/8" hole. . .

Edited by bkolfo4

Current system:

1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s

Previous systems:

2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz.

1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz.

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