Jump to content

Recommended Posts

you guys need to visit the TCCoA forums, me and a couple of others there have done much blue with our cats and birds. I've got my SATC done. I have reverse glow gauges to be installed, and there is a post on the board about putting leds behind the needles which really makes them look fuckin amazing.

people are working on shift selectors, buttons etc. There is also a guy there who does gauge overlays and such that's been working with us for our blue obsession :D

I've also got a thread somewhere here on SMD about my blue SATC conversion, and how I did it.

Edited by BigJohnny
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Im doing this in my 2000 Silverado LT 1500 but it looks like im doing it different from you guys those

Your truck uses 194(I believe) bulbs. After 03 all the lights are soldered to the boards and are non serviceable (Or should I say, supposed to be non serviceable)

userbar651078zu3.gif

MECP_SMALL.jpgCERTIFIED BITCHES!!!

Not being new at something doesn't mean anything. Just because a prostitute isn't new at what she does, doesn't change the fact that she still 'sucks'

Click to see my build!

Proud DC owner

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But seriously guys, I would NOT recommend these kind of mods unless you have ALOT of experience with VERY small delicate electronics, as well as alot of knowledge of what you're getting into. For instance, I'll give you guys a preview of my airbag switch in my truck.

Well said. Heres a before and after of my 4x4 switch

DSCN4144.jpg

DSCN4150.jpg

GuEMAcB_zps08015839.png
Link to comment
Share on other sites

dont you need to install resistors to help lower the volts to the lights. or is it just plug in the lights in the normal adapter?

This is a touchy subject actually.

For instance here you have a typical 12v LED 194 replacement bulb.

194_5ledBlue_01.jpg

You can plug it in straight up and it will work.

The downfall is, you will hear this many of times people complain about these failing after so long. The reason being MOST of these bulbs are designed to work off of a 12v power source. At run a typical vehicle will feed close to 15v through the car. That being said, the LED itself will get just a little too much voltage for it to work properly and over time it will fail. In this situation, you can correct the voltage getting to the 12v LED, by adding a resistor to the feed line. Measure the draw of the bulb, measure the highest voltage it will receive and use kirchoffs formula to get the proper resistor value. This is what I did for my DRL's. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...st&p=548958

In all of my dash and cluster work, it's the same principle just without the 12v pre made LED. I've got an LED that requires 3v and draws 20ma. I've got a source voltage of 14.5 therefore I add a 680 ohm resistor to the circuit which gives the LED a safe 2.8-3 volts.

userbar651078zu3.gif

MECP_SMALL.jpgCERTIFIED BITCHES!!!

Not being new at something doesn't mean anything. Just because a prostitute isn't new at what she does, doesn't change the fact that she still 'sucks'

Click to see my build!

Proud DC owner

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1094 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...