Noobtastic14 Posted July 30, 2009 Report Share Posted July 30, 2009 The big III doesn't add any power, nor does it change the point your ECU regulates the alternator. what it does do is make returning to that charge point more efficient! example: pre- big III my voltage would crash to mid 12s and hover while playing and as soon as i stopped it would slowly crawl back to 13.8 or so before crashing once again. after i did the big III my voltage would drop SLOWLY to mid/high 12s and as soon as the system was not under load it would instantly jump back up to 13.8 -Drew Quote I am a United States Military Arts and Crafts Professional. Sand it off, Paint it on. uhoh_45 said: dont be a pussy P give the jeep to drew Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundzright Posted July 31, 2009 Report Share Posted July 31, 2009 Big 3 is one of the most important things to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datdude-oc Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 i AM NEW WHAT IS THE BIG 3 Quote CAN YOU HEAR ME NOW....GOOD New Build COMING!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herrie_V Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 i AM NEW WHAT IS THE BIG 3 Search, read, learn. U can found alot of it in the Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring section... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tek Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 ok I am going to sound stupid as fuck but Idc. Im just getting into this car audio shit. What is The Big 3? I hear shit all the time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Herrie_V Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 Wtf?! what did i just typed 2 posts above? Read the big 3 tut over there... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomabanga1986 Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 and another note, the big three helps the battery charge faster, like unhook ur battery for a couple hrs, n then hook back up n check voltage, when i was doin by big three once i got done i was charging @ 15.2v n then went down to 14.4 or so, unless u need it i wouldn't try to go over 15v anyways unless u got a heavy load on ur electrical but overkill helps, most factory wires are 4guage anyways, but mine were around 12guage or smaller so it made a diff, but aint it a big 4 acually? or will a big 4 help? big 4= 1.battery pos to alt pos output 2.battery neg to chassis ground 3.chassis to engine block ground n 4. engine block to battery neg? will this make a diff helping current flow threw sheet metal? Quote here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fish Chris Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 (edited) I did the Big 3 (4 actually) all with 1/0, before I put in my system, along with a much better battery (but not a dual setup... I just replaced my lame stock batt). Granted, I'm just running one 'relatively' light weight RF Power 1000 25 to Life..... But anyway, I haven't had any problems at all. No dimming lights whatsoever, and I crank my system for 30 minutes to an hour all the time > with the truck turned off < , and it never dips below 12.3 volts..... about 13.5 truck running, with stereo + air con.... 13.8 to 14.4 with air con off, stereo on {oh, and I put in a digital voltmeter too, so I wouldn't have to worry about running my batt too low, then not being able to start the truck}. Anyway, shortly after I did the Big 3, I was on another forum, where the resident guru posted this big, long, technical thread, with graphs, pictures, case studies, etc, all to prove, that the Big 3 typically wasn't worth $#!+ Now, I'm pretty much an electrical dummy..... but I read the guys post like 3 X's, and what he was saying actually kind of made sense. In a nutshell, he said that the length of runs, commonly used in the Big 3, were too short to make any noticable difference in resistence, and that the only time when it made a bigger, more noticeable difference, was with long runs of cable, like from a battery under your hood, to an amplifier in your trunk.... or your alt under the hood, to a batt in the trunk. Hmmmmm. ........that, and also, if you were running a high powered alt, or 2.... (er 4 Hmmmm. At the very least, the Big 3 "looks cool" Anyway, I have to agree with that other guru guy, that for my setup, the Big 3 probably isn't doing squat. But it might be doing a little more for some of you with much bigger, badder systems. Peace, Fish Edited August 2, 2009 by Fish Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abervintageman42 Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 I did the Big 3 (4 actually) all with 1/0, before I put in my system, along with a much better battery (but not a dual setup... I just replaced my lame stock batt). Granted, I'm just running one 'relatively' light weight RF Power 1000 25 to Life.....But anyway, I haven't had any problems at all. No dimming lights whatsoever, and I crank my system for 30 minutes to an hour all the time, and it never dips below 12.3 volts {oh, and I put in a digital voltmeter too, so I wouldn't have to worry about running my batt too low, then not being able to start the truck}. Anyway, shortly after I did the Big 3, I was on another forum, where the resident guru posted this big, long, technical thread, with graphs, pictures, case studies, etc, all to prove, that the Big 3 typically wasn't worth $#!+ Now, I'm pretty much an electrical dummy..... but I read the guys post like 3 X's, and what he was saying actually kind of made sense. In a nutshell, he said that the length of runs, commonly used in the Big 3, were too short to make any noticable difference in resistence, and that the only time when it made a bigger, more noticeable difference, was with long runs of cable, like from a battery under your hood, to an amplifier in your trunk.... or your alt under the hood, to a batt in the trunk. Hmmmmm. ........that, and also, if you were running a high powered alt, or 2.... (er 4 Hmmmm. At the very least, the Big 3 "looks cool" Anyway, I have to agree with that other guru guy, that for my setup, the Big 3 probably isn't doing squat. But it might be doing a little more for some of you with much bigger, badder systems. Peace, Fish damn fish i didnt know you were on this site too haha, i upgrade battery neg. to chassis ground, engine block to chassis ground and chassis to frame ground all in 1/0 and it made a huge ddifference and i didnt even touch my alternator Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SQMonte Posted August 2, 2009 Report Share Posted August 2, 2009 I have a fi bl and sundown sae 1200d. i have a stock 100 amp alt wit a stock battery. my voltage drops to around 11.9 to 12.1 at full tilt at idle. I ordered stinger 0 guage wire from darvex that will be here thursday to do the big three. Any ideas on about how much this will help out for now? i also have a saz 1500d on the way It all depends on what your expectations are from it. If you go into it expecting that it'll alleviate the significant voltage drops you're experiencing then you're gonna be disappointed. But if you go into it simply wanting to provide a more free flowing electrical system that will help allow the current from the h/o alternator you plan on getting soon, then it'll be just what the doctor ordered. Quote Alpine CDA-117...Memphis 16-X03 CDT Audio SQA-4100...SEAS Prestige H1396...Crescendo MP-6 Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500d...Digital Designs 3512f Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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