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I have a fi bl and sundown sae 1200d. i have a stock 100 amp alt wit a stock battery. my voltage drops to around 11.9 to 12.1 at full tilt at idle. I ordered stinger

0 guage wire from darvex that will be here thursday to do the big three. Any ideas on about how much this will help out for now? i also have a saz 1500d on the

way :spiteful:

6 Sundown X 15s

2 Sundown NS1 V2s

C Pillar 4th order

Bagged Suburban on 24s

http://youtube.com/tlee333

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I would guess you will see a significant difference with a properly installed big three. All three of my vehicles had almost 2 volt differences when they were completed. But I am not sure that this is a normal occurrence.

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I would guess you will see a significant difference with a properly installed big three. All three of my vehicles had almost 2 volt differences when they were completed. But I am not sure that this is a normal occurrence.

I just did mine today and saw NO difference in voltage, I was very sad.

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I did my big 3 in 1/0 gauge about a month ago and haven't noticed a huge difference.. I think its cause i have a cheap-o batt. and that my HO alternator isn't putting out its potential cause the computer is regulating it... Time for a MLA Voltage Module.. and I want to upgrade to a Kinetik 2400.. that outta do the trick.. and i also think my alternator belt might be slippin on occasion. only runnin two kenwood amps to two 10's and 4 fullranges. about 1300 watts rms and have 1 run of 1/0 gauge ran as well as the big 3 and the 200 amp alternator(high output at idle) and a 300 amp Soundstream Capcell.. When im at a stop light at idle and bumpin its usually down to 12.5 volts.. Not too happy about that. But i think im in need of that stuff i mentioned before and it should be all good. Im confused why my lights still dim and shit when i have all my shit done right for that kind of wattage if not overkill.. if anyone has any ideas why its not holding a good charge lets hear it..

(2001 Dodge Durango R/T)

1- XS Power D2700

1-Alpine CDE-HD149BT (Head Unit)

1 pr.- Focal Polyglass 165v30 (Front Stage)

1 pr.- Hybrid Audio Technologies C61-2 (Rear Fill)

1-Kenwood Excelon XR-1S (Sub Amp)

1-Kenwood Excelon XR-4S (Mids-N-Highs Amp)

2- JL 10 W3v3-4 (Subs)

-2.3 Cubes tuned to 32 hz

1-1/0 ga. & Big III in 1/0

140 @45 hz db drag legal

(2008 Toyota Highlander Limited ---build in the works)

1- Kenwood DDX470 (Head Unit)

1 pr.- JL C3-650 (Front Stage)

1 pr.- JL C2-525 (Rear Fill, may upgrade to 6.5" C2 or C3 instead)

1- JL XD-400/4 (Mids-N-Highs Amp)

1- JL XD-600/1 (Sub Amp)

1- XS Power D3400

1- JL 10w3v3-2 (Sub)

1- JL 2 Ga. Amp Kit

1- BIG 3 in 1/0

1- self-built Fiberglass sub enclosure

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Not trying to thread jack but didn't want to make a new thread for a related question. My wire from alternator to battery positive is 8 gauge stock. Would that be good enough for around 2k rms set up or should i just 1/0 it and never have to worry about it again? Right now I don't have the budget to buy things that are not completely necessary but I refuse to half ass anything since I love my SUV and system, and would like them to love me back.

Edited by DGold

Old Setup
03 DurangoRF Power T1 6.5 CompsMids/Highs Amp: AQ4x90Sub Amp: AQ 3500.1DSubs: 2 DC XL 18sBox: 12ft^3 tuned to 33HzMechman 270 Amp AltXS 6500XS 3100 x2

Highest Score to date: 151.2 db @ Headrest

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This must be the 600th big3 post... looks like it:)

Mods, can we get a "Big 3" section on smd?

If there was a big3 section noobs still would not post in it lol

you can cook bacon shirtless if you're not a pussy...lol

not hatin, but am i wrong here it looks as if the amp is not grounded its hooked directly to the battery. it that the way it should be.

intr.jpg

DC.jpgDC POWER

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