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how much rms can you run with stock electrical


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Posted

All of what everybody is saying is true, however you would be surprised how even in larger vehicles the factory puts alts in that barely have very much extra power on hand, I.E. a car with a 120 amp alt, may already have 80-90 amps already dedicated to stock accesories, but some cars have extra leeway than others.

Ye im plannin to upgrade alt to 200 amp when cash come to it but for now hope i can get away with just 2 batterys, although got to wait till my dirtbike to sell to buy the bl 12, build box, buy amp, and battery lol

Setup:

Headunit: 7" indash screen

Sub: fi bl 12

Amp: Audioque 1200D

Box Ported tuned to 34hz

Big 3 done in 1/0 gauge

Posted

It definately depends on the vehicle, I have 1200 watts in my car and I dont drop much voltage. Lights dim just a little but you have to really be watching them to know. I would say get a battery to be safe if you have the money. If not then just dont bump too hard for a bit.

06 Police TahoeHU- Pioneer 80prsAmp- Crossfire 8kSub- 4 15" Crossfire xs v2sWire- 1/0 Knu/AudiotechnixAlt- 3 Mechman SMD 340sBatts- 6 XS Power 3100s, 2400

Posted

It definately depends on the vehicle, I have 1200 watts in my car and I dont drop much voltage. Lights dim just a little but you have to really be watching them to know. I would say get a battery to be safe if you have the money. If not then just dont bump too hard for a bit.

Yea ill just have to wait and see when i get it all and hook it up and see what happens. BTW its goin in single cab truck goin to take bench seats and add buckets. goin to build a box that kinda resembles a center consle. I might be able to fit a 15" bl in there but ill have to wait and do the measuring when the buckets are in but i say i can only fit the 12" it will be close though

Setup:

Headunit: 7" indash screen

Sub: fi bl 12

Amp: Audioque 1200D

Box Ported tuned to 34hz

Big 3 done in 1/0 gauge

Posted

i had 2400 watts... (two of the amps i have now) in my explorer with just a yellow top... i really didnt have that much voltage drop... 13.7 was the lowest i saw... (had two15 kove u2 Armageddon's) i miss those days :(

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The set up your talking about would sound great in my Tahoe. Trade you my dog for it. He has one eye but that only makes for bad depth perception so hey so what if he is running into shit, look at it this way he is easy to sneak up ninja style on. (right side only)
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Posted

i had 2400 watts... (two of the amps i have now) in my explorer with just a yellow top... i really didnt have that much voltage drop... 13.7 was the lowest i saw... (had two15 kove u2 Armageddon's) i miss those days :(

kk i should be fine runnin just a yellow top then

Setup:

Headunit: 7" indash screen

Sub: fi bl 12

Amp: Audioque 1200D

Box Ported tuned to 34hz

Big 3 done in 1/0 gauge

Posted

1200 watts (well 1700 at 14.4) i dont drop much at all .1 i think is all..

Tim-Sig.png

62491252.png

The set up your talking about would sound great in my Tahoe. Trade you my dog for it. He has one eye but that only makes for bad depth perception so hey so what if he is running into shit, look at it this way he is easy to sneak up ninja style on. (right side only)
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Posted

coming from experience, i would say you can run 1000w CLASS D on a stock system but a battery upgrade to say a yellowtop might get you up into the 1500w range, possibly 2000 with good upgraded wiring (big 3).

DO NOT try that with Class AB or worse, Class A. The only reason you can even THINK of getting away with 1000w or more (on BASS) on a stock electrical is due to class D being so efficient. Your typical mids/high class AB amp shouldnt hurt anything too bad unless its HUGE and your trying to throw a concert :D


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Posted

I agree with everyone here and feel it should be a rule of thumb that a person can run a 1000 watt class D amp on most stock electrical systems with an aftermarket deep cycle battery replaceing the stock starter battery up front and the Big 3 done prefferably with 0/1 gauge.

But to help you out since I have experience with a 5.7 litter V8 engine in my truck. My truck is a 1988 Chevy K3500.

4 years ago I started running a Rockford Fosgate BD1500/1501BD in my truck with the only modifactaions being a Stinger Power2 SP1000 replaceing the starter battery and the Big 3 done in 0/1 gauge wire and at that date a 17 year old 100 amp stock altenator. (LOL yes I actually had the original alt that came with the truck for 18.5 or 19 years before I had it rebuilt) (hard to believe but true)

I ran that system for close to 2 years without any modifacations to my electrical components and never had any problems or failures at all.

I do forget what my voltage drop was but I know it wasn't horrible maybe 2 volts or so playing rap music.

Now I need to point out the down side.

As I slowly started to build up my electrical system I noticed the quality of my bass becomeing more tighter and cleaner and thats it.

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Posted

Sad to say but, I am still running stock. :sorry: Until, I get my wallet back on track. I am gonna do the big 3 and replace the Batt and add another.

Alpine CDA-9847 HU

F Highs 2x Infinity Kappa 60.9CS Powered by Eclipse EA4200 Glass door panels

R Highs Infinity Ref. 9622i powered by HU

3x RF Punch HX2 RFD2210 Powered by MTX Thunder 81000D

Box Vol. 3.259 before displacement, Tuned 36.6, Port area 54"

Posted

Sad to say but, I am still running stock. :sorry: Until, I get my wallet back on track. I am gonna do the big 3 and replace the Batt and add another.

If I play it too hard too long, my garmin will tell me its been unpluged. To clue you in on my V drops. Damn I need to upgrade it.

Alpine CDA-9847 HU

F Highs 2x Infinity Kappa 60.9CS Powered by Eclipse EA4200 Glass door panels

R Highs Infinity Ref. 9622i powered by HU

3x RF Punch HX2 RFD2210 Powered by MTX Thunder 81000D

Box Vol. 3.259 before displacement, Tuned 36.6, Port area 54"

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