kingsuv Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 I think the biggest thing people miss when grounding to the frame is the grounding of the battery to the frame as well. If you ground to the frame in the back, you are still dependent on the factory grounds up front. Engines sit on rubber motor mounts The other thing people really miss, is cleaning the surface of the frame ( on both sides) to get a good solid connection. Quote Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 I just thought of something else with the frame. Usually your frame isn't nearly as nice and clean as the one pictured up top. It's a piece of surface rust hot mess. That can reduce resistance right there. Most vehicles need 2 grounds because of rubber mounts. The ones with solid mounts don't have to worry about that. The factory ground usually attaches from the battery, attaches to the body and then somewhere to the engine block. Some trucks are going to have a ground strap off the engine block to the firewall. Big 3 absolutely helps, especially since some of the grounding straps are braided aluminum! Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finkster Posted September 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 It would be interesting to get a resistance of a complete frame ground. from the copper going to the frame then the frame going to the battery. Then get a resistance of 15 feet of 1/0....then see how much power is lost. I guess cost is also a big factor here.... Quote DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Is the cost of say 50 bucks worth the few extra tenths of decibel, or the tenths of voltage? Absolutely. Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingsuv Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 50 bucks for a couple tenths is cheap Quote Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out. not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 It's very cheap. Any time I run 1/0 or bigger, I almost always run a 1/0 ground from front to rear battery. Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speeddemon0308 Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Lanman, coule you test the resistance threw you cable... and then unhook and test again and let us know results? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loganberry Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 50 bucks for a couple tenths is cheap we talked about this yet again last week but the first bit of "good" advice when i started going to the shows was ground to the battery, thats the only way i will do it, and only way i have done it since...that extra 15 feet of 0 gauge needed to run from front battery negative terminal to the rear amps or battery bank is 100% worth it, nothing is worse than a faulty ground at all....it can burn up amps almost as much as stupidity (kinda inside joke, bill knows what im talkin about ) Quote My F-150 Build GET ON THE BANDWAGON what if they tried messing with the amps when the subs werent louder hahah jk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 Well, here's the scoop. Let's get some guys with unibody cars to do it, and let's get some guys who have a full frame. To do a true test, we'd need some guys that attach right to the frame, and the guys who attach to the body, and those guys who use the ground runs. Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr.p Posted September 29, 2009 Report Share Posted September 29, 2009 runs of + and - equal runs. Quote DCAUDIO BALLS DEEP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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