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Your running a 2 channel amp that is only stable at 2 ohms bridged... You have it at 1 ohm, with stock electrical.

Lets make it simple for you, you keep doing what your doing, your going to clip your subs to death, and blow up the amp.

Shyne is 100% right, wire each sub in series at 2 ohms, and run 1 sub at 2 ohms per channel.

That amp is only stable at 1 ohm if you use both channels and not having it bridged.

Couldn't explain it better myself and for the time being, be very careful with your voltage. Keep an eye on your volt meter and play it little with car off or @ idle.

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN.

Pioneer AVIC-N2

(12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each

Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s

26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area

156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace

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ok i did an now it still isnt as loud im still getting clipping so i set my gains right b4 my clipping light goes green but it sounds clearer but not as loud as it was

A green light is ok, a orange is a semi clip, red is full clip.

At least on the big 10,000wrms hifonics I played with... The amps dont do rated power until they are clipped to hell (and the amp I played with was rand at 1.34 ohms with 8 16volt kinetik batteries and 3 dc power alts) didnt do no where near rated power non or slightly clipped.

Any ways, unfortunate for you because you either got A) the wrong amp, or B) the wrong impedance coils

Sure you could run your amp at 1 ohm bridged, but its going to get hot, the added heat will make your amp do less power, and its going to suck crap tons of current which you dont have!

Now if you had a good 250amp alternator, and 2 big batteries id say go nuts and hope that the amp dont crap out.

 

 

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A green light is ok, a orange is a semi clip, red is full clip.

At least on the big 10,000wrms hifonics I played with... The amps dont do rated power until they are clipped to hell (and the amp I played with was rand at 1.34 ohms with 8 16volt kinetik batteries and 3 dc power alts) didnt do no where near rated power non or slightly clipped.

Any ways, unfortunate for you because you either got A) the wrong amp, or B) the wrong impedance coils

Sure you could run your amp at 1 ohm bridged, but its going to get hot, the added heat will make your amp do less power, and its going to suck crap tons of current which you dont have!

Now if you had a good 250amp alternator, and 2 big batteries id say go nuts and hope that the amp dont crap out.

lol ik but its not good to even have a green light is it an ik i got some batts an hoping the new box gets started soon or i could just take my whole check an buy my mechman ( spelling) alt :)

kia spectra 4 door

HU-a kenwood kdc-692x

optima red top under the hood ( kinetik battery or powermaster in the back )

Iraggi 260amp H/O alternator

1 set of knu kandy 1/0 guage wiring kit ( 2 more sets coming )

front speakers -

back speakers -

2 12" lv 4's with lvl 5 softparts ( going to be 4 in near future)

Sundown 3500d( going to be 2 sometime )

i have boughten from - Bass14(smd), ddbump(caraudioclassifieds)

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if your not feeding the amp the current it needs it over heats and die's!

this is why your clipping at high volume . I have seen the same thing 10 times or so with the memphis 4kw.

and now because memphis was tired of fixing these amps because of this problem there warranty now states the dealer that sell's this amp to you has to verify you have enough current going to this amp in other words H/O alt and at least 2 batteries ! Or they will not warranty the amplifier.

and your gonna have a problem if you do not get that electrical upgraded !

Edited by Tooshort064

95 Civic Coupe

Pioneer AVH-P7600DVD

Kinetik HC-1200 In Front

Kinetik HC-2000 In Rear

Memphis 16-MCA3004

2 X Memphis 16-MCD1000 With Maxxsonics MLX-100

2 X DC LVL 4 XL 12's

Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS In Door's

Kenwood KFC-6982ie In Rear Deck

All Memphis Wire/Rca's and misc.

tooshort.png

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Wouldn't you want an HO Alt before Batteries since the batteries are just another thing to charge and if you cant already keep up with what you have then the batteries are just going to make it worse? Like a cap...

2015 Mazda 6

JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm

2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i

NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical

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ya so all in faovr of me getting a new alt next week if i get enough:)

kia spectra 4 door

HU-a kenwood kdc-692x

optima red top under the hood ( kinetik battery or powermaster in the back )

Iraggi 260amp H/O alternator

1 set of knu kandy 1/0 guage wiring kit ( 2 more sets coming )

front speakers -

back speakers -

2 12" lv 4's with lvl 5 softparts ( going to be 4 in near future)

Sundown 3500d( going to be 2 sometime )

i have boughten from - Bass14(smd), ddbump(caraudioclassifieds)

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Nice HO Alt and Big 3 then go from there

2015 Mazda 6

JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm

2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i

NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical

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