How I make my connections

[Shyne151]

Well first lets start off with soldering your wire is the preferred method when interfacing with any factory wiring. But with the pure volume of units we put out a day, the only wires we solder of any factory wiring that is cut(IE: Starter kill, parking light isolation) or a data/resistance wire(IE: Can High, Can Low, J1850, Passlock wires, VATS Wires).

Here is an igntion harness off an 09 Honda. The wire gauge was around 12gauge... this method is usually what I use for 16gauge and larger.

First off I take my strippers(These are the ones I use) and cut the outter coating all the way around(with a quick twist of the strippers)on the wire twice... about 3/4" of an inch apart.

Next I take a razer blade and cut between the two cuts I previously put in the wire.

After that I will take a straight pick tool and poke through the exposed wire. This allows me to open up the middle so I can feed the wire from the remote starter(end stripped away about an inch-inch and a half) through it.

Once the wire is through I take it and twist around the exposed wire. Once the wire is through the center and twisted around it is damn near impossible to be pulled out.

All taped and ziptied up:

One smaller gauge wires(18gauge and smaller) I use the same method to make a connection... except I usually use autostrippers instead of the old razer blade and strippers.

Here is how I join two wires together(Neutral safety switch and a toggle switch in this case)...

First twist the two wires together:

Then wrap around the wire... once again almost impossible to pull apart once taped up.

I didn't have to solder any wires in this vehicle... so no examples..

But I did take pictures of how to make a good ground. Your ground should always be in the kick panel(not on a knee bolster or factory bracket! or even the factory ground!), directed says resistance to the negative post on the battery should be below 1ohm... I've never had any problems with upto 5ohms...

First off I take a die grinder wire brush attachment and put it in my drill. This allows for you to take away any paint:

Paint grinded away:

Now when you crimp on your ring terminal there is a correct way to use the crimpers.... make sure the little extrusion side is on bottom. Like so:

And how to properly use a star washer... between the ring terminal and the metal... Doing it this way makes the star washer dig into the metal for a better connection and prevents the ring terminal from rotating.

I will add more to this post later... I actually took these pics a few weeks ago and just never posted them. Hopefully this helps some of you guys trying to install your own alarms and remote starts... remember this was a remote start so I didn't hide any of the wires or anything, before anyone tries to call me out on it

[qu1cks1lver56]

some interesting ways. why not just use a crimp connector like a butt connector or a crimp cap?

[Shyne151]

some interesting ways. why not just use a crimp connector like a butt connector or a crimp cap?

IMO these methods make a more solid connection and more wire is touching wire this way.

Scotch locks and such have the tendency to cut factory wires when connected...

[qu1cks1lver56]

oh i gotcha. well it looks pretty clean when its finished.

[mbdblue]

exactly how I was taught at my old shop! glad to see you do it this way too so I know Im doin it right...I hate using side strippers though...I always end up breakin the wire or stretchin it. I probably just havent found a good pair. good tips in here

[The Performer]

I'm going to be flat out honest, that's a terrible exhibition of combining the correct ring terminal with wire.

Call me picky but hey...

Your wire tap method is a great way to do it, Tony Candela used the same technique in his book.

The 10-12 gauge ring on the 20 gauge wire is just...

Good thread though, needs some solder examples, I've noticed that it seems no one can ever seem to do a correct soldered joint these days.

So you're a professional installer? Who are you working for?

[finkster]

that doesnt look like two 18g wires to me, but it may be...

The main thing here is to solder connections when doing your own car because you have the time to make sure everything is perfect.

[Shyne151]

I'm going to be flat out honest, that's a terrible exhibition of combining the correct ring terminal with wire.

Call me picky but hey...

Your wire tap method is a great way to do it, Tony Candela used the same technique in his book.

The 10-12 gauge ring on the 20 gauge wire is just...

Good thread though, needs some solder examples, I've noticed that it seems no one can ever seem to do a correct soldered joint these days.

So you're a professional installer? Who are you working for?

I was wondering if anyone would notice that. I used to use the blue terminals(16-14) but all the terminals we have been getting from ATS for about the last year have had a smaller eyelet that gets caught on self-taping screws and causes the wires to spin. So I started useing the yellow terminals... they hold just fine. Used them for over a year now and not a single car has came back.

[raytard]

basically how i was taught, but whenever i join two wires, i put them at a 45deg angle, twist them once, and then wrap them back over their own side of the bare wire, it makes basically alittle knot thats about as strong as a crimpcap

i still use crimpcaps whenever i can though, especially on radios and stuff. if you've ever tried to take a crimpcap off after its been securely crimped you'll know why...

but the important thing in there is soldering all data/resistance wires. some of those are reaaaaaly picky about whats going through them apparently.

[The Performer]

I was wondering if anyone would notice that. I used to use the blue terminals(16-14) but all the terminals we have been getting from ATS for about the last year have had a smaller eyelet that gets caught on self-taping screws and causes the wires to spin. So I started useing the yellow terminals... they hold just fine. Used them for over a year now and not a single car has came back.

Oh I know exactly what you mean, it's just a weird quirk I have.

Anyway, you didn't say who you installed for? I'm interested in becoming an installer myself but really the only people around here that will get you started with no proof of experience is best buy. Out of the two real shops we have they both are kinda full as well as looking for people who have been in the business. So it's kinda hard for someone to get on their feet as an installer.