Rogers Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 those fuses take more then you think... i was told that a 300a fuse could let a run of 1/0 burn in half before the fuse would blow... basically... what im saying is... his fuse isnt going to blow the second 80 amps goes through it... i had a friend that was using a 25a fuse between batteries and he had a pdx1000 and the fuse never blew.... one day his amp started shutting off because his hc1800 was drained and the 25a wouldnt let enough current through... he swaped it out to a 100a fuse and hasnt had a problem since.... my advice is... upgrade to 1/0 and 120-150 amps of fusing.... you will see a difference.... also on the subject of impedance rise... that sae1200d is very underrated... so even at 2ohms... he will be seeing more than 600rms as long as his voltage is above 12.8volts http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/79921-rogers-700-dream-car-update-page-17-a-wall/?p=2335774 93 Saturn SC2My system4 SA-15's Walled 2 Cerwin-Vega S2000's 3 Kinetik Hc2000's Dual 200amp alts. you guys done with the peepee touching contest or do I need to end it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the mange Posted January 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Well the displacement of a 12 inch BL alone is .18No idea on your box outer dimensions, and port dimensions but from the quick math i did of a 2.55 cubed box with 35 sq inches of port at 33hz your looking at around .6 cubic feet give or take. So now your under 2 cubic feet of box volume after sub and port displacement not including your bracing (which is something not really needed on such a low powered setup, and such a small box) or the 45 degree corners. Also 45ing every corner may hurt the woofers performance. It all depends on the design however. but you gotta remember that the 45s take up a tad of box volume depending on size. Sounds like its time for a new box then. I'd really like to try the 1/4 wave t-line only problem is it has to go in a sedan trunk. Thanks for all the help dude this forum is awesome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 those fuses take more then you think... i was told that a 300a fuse could let a run of 1/0 burn in half before the fuse would blow... basically... what im saying is... his fuse isnt going to blow the second 80 amps goes through it... i had a friend that was using a 25a fuse between batteries and he had a pdx1000 and the fuse never blew.... one day his amp started shutting off because his hc1800 was drained and the 25a wouldnt let enough current through... he swaped it out to a 100a fuse and hasnt had a problem since.... my advice is... upgrade to 1/0 and 120-150 amps of fusing.... you will see a difference.... also on the subject of impedance rise... that sae1200d is very underrated... so even at 2ohms... he will be seeing more than 600rms as long as his voltage is above 12.8volts Your right, fuses do tend to allow more current to pass thru them then they are rated for. This depends on the brand/quality of the fuses, and also they generally only allow 20-60amps extra current for short periods of time, and handle even more current for short burps. Whats the point of running a fuse if they wont blow at their rated amperage or close too. As for your 25 amp fuse with a pdx1000 and a hc1800 in the back and the fuse not blowing... Simple. Its because the current will draw from the path of least resistance. Being that the kinetik hc1800 is in the back from the amp, it will drain almost all the needed power from that rear battery. However, the battery was not able to charge fast enough. Most likely this was a vehicle with a stock alternator it seems, because if it was any real draw that fuse should of blown almost instantly. As for him needing thicker wire.. Most 4gauge wiring kits are good for up to 1500wrms. Cheaper 4 gauge wiring kits good for around 1200wrms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 Sounds like its time for a new box then. I'd really like to try the 1/4 wave t-line only problem is it has to go in a sedan trunk. Thanks for all the help dude this forum is awesome. Im not really up to par on Transmission line boxes.. However Foreverbumpin has somewhat of a cookie cutter thread started that will give you some good info and a good idea of a starting place for it. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...?showtopic=1828 Otherwise if your wanting to try a ported box again. I recommend ExpoSports box tuning calculator. Its almost dead nuts accurate gives your recommended square inches of port you need per box size. makes it really easy!! If you plan to do any internal bracing try to figure out its displacement in your head or on paper, then just add the bracing displacement to your sub displacement and it keep everything on par for a exact displacment. You can download it here: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=38791 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 the power a fuse can take goes something like this: 110% power for 4 hours 135% power for 1 hour 200% power for 5 min. info from BCAE1.com If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 the power a fuse can take goes something like this:110% power for 4 hours 135% power for 1 hour 200% power for 5 min. info from BCAE1.com As the rest of it reads: Fuse Opening Time: A fuse does not blow when the current reaches its rated current. It is designed to pass its rated current without opening. A fuse will take varying times to blow under different conditions. A fuse will pass significantly more than its rated current for a very short time. It may take 10 minutes or more to blow a fuse at 25% over its rated current. The table below is an example of the specifications for a slow blow fuse. You can see that a 20 amp fuse may pass 40 amps of current for as long as 5 minutes before blowing although it probably wouldn't take a full 5 minutes to blow. The times for other fuses will be slightly different. Meaning that above 110% power for 4 hours is the fuse working 10% harder then its rated amperage. 25% of 80amps = 20amps, so it would take ruffly 100amps of current for 10 minutes or so before it blows. Pretty much dead on with the 20-60 amps of over loading the fuse I said above. Im a tad off, but again it depends on quality and size of fuse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogers Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 As the rest of it reads:Meaning that above 110% power for 4 hours is the fuse working 10% harder then its rated amperage. 25% of 80amps = 20amps, so it would take ruffly 100amps of current for 10 minutes or so before it blows. Pretty much dead on with the 20-60 amps of over loading the fuse I said above. Im a tad off, but again it depends on quality and size of fuse. great info!... so i have no doubt in my mind that he is pulling more than 80 amps.... and i also have no doubt that the same 80 amp fuse may be restricting the amp from some of the power that it needs... on the subject of the 4 guage... i realize good 4 guage can handle up to 1500rms... but the way i see it... the amp is made for 1/0... the guys at sundown fitted it for 1/0 for a reason.... and once again.. i think the 4 guage may be restricting the amp from some of the power it needs... since the 1/0 will have less resistance... i recommend it... but hey... who am i? lol http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/79921-rogers-700-dream-car-update-page-17-a-wall/?p=2335774 93 Saturn SC2My system4 SA-15's Walled 2 Cerwin-Vega S2000's 3 Kinetik Hc2000's Dual 200amp alts. you guys done with the peepee touching contest or do I need to end it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sundownz Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 You should be using 1/0 wire for sure. Since you have changed two variables at once -- woofer AND amp -- it's hard to say which factor is limiting you. Could be the old woofer performed much better in your enclosure. - Jacob Fuller - Owner, Sundown Audio - Sundown Audio on FACEBOOK - Please DO NOT PM ME -- use my email address -- [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2000LaDe Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 wow Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
emperorjj1 Posted January 12, 2010 Report Share Posted January 12, 2010 i'm surprised no one has asked yet but is ur knu the OFC or CCA? J. JMy CardomainFINISHED COBALT SS/SC DUAL ALTERNATOR PICS theres no such thing as too expensive when it comes to upgrades like that, because imo if you are gonna spend to upgrade then do it correctly rather then be a cheap ass ricer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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