Amalan Posted June 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 hm cause nothing was sparking at all but ill buy some fuses soon and try again and ill take some pictures of the inside of the amp if i see something suspicious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 hook up a wire from the b+ terminal to the remote terminal. you couldve friend the remote wire off the h.u. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forevrbumpn Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 out of all the responses, best thing to do is 1) test light 2) Volt meter That should have been the first thing you should have done, start testing battery connection, then fuse, then at amp, if no power, track it down. I would believe if anything the romote fried. Remotes only are capable of handling like a 0.5-3 amp load, pretty damn light huh? If all is good, THEM the amp is fried Ive been installing since about 1995 and I can only think of maybe 2-3 times I ever disconnected the battery/ground when messing with amps, I always disconnect the fuses before touching amps.... But caps, batteries, or adding fuses, then I disconnect the battery Quote I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 have you checked your ground? thats usually the overlooked problem. Quote A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rusty959 Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 (edited) Also... it seemed you hinted toward that this was a used amp... so if it was... are you 100% sure it worked in the first place? simple question, but sometimes problems have simple answers.... Edited June 20, 2007 by rusty959 Quote 2013 Subaru BRZ12" Orion HCCA on AQ 22001967 mustang restoration project: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110765-mustang-restoration-build-2011-edition/ Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/therusty959 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amalan Posted June 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 well i hooked up my amp back to my car and everything was working but it sparked when i tried to put on the positive wire so i removed the ground from the battery and put it on and it worked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigarsenal Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 glad that shit worked out for you Quote Subs- 2AA Arsenal 15sAmps- Orion2500d/MemphisDoors- Infinity kapa/AA polymids(soon)Deck- Pioneer PrimerBox- 3.5 per chamber!!!!!!!!/28hzElectrical- two optima red tops/160alt(big 3 soon)OHIO BABY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big P Posted June 20, 2007 Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 take a jumper wire and run it from the + lead to the remote turn on making sure the remote wire from the deck is disconnected from the deck if that doesnt do any thing you need to start at the deck testing every thing and working your way back to your subs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amalan Posted June 20, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 20, 2007 well i know the remote wire is working cause like i said when i plugged back in my amp is booted up and ran perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dmanson Posted June 21, 2007 Report Share Posted June 21, 2007 always disconnect the battery's negative before you connect wires bro. you will always see sparks if you don't. Quote 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.