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Here's the deal.. I bought 2 12" Kicker CVXs with a box from my buddy. Subs were tested and bump hard.

I also bought just a temporary Fusion 2000watt mono amp until I can buy my Hifonics Brutus. I am running 0awg for Power/Ground and for some reason... This doesn't bump AT ALL!!!

The subs move, but move sloppy.. No air is really coming out of the port and the sound quality is just shit. Hardly hits any notes at all. Sometimes when you turn it up it seems like the subs turn themselves down, but the amp never goes into protect mode.

I was thinking it was the amp, but I'm not sold because it just came out of my friend's system running 2 12" Type-Rs and this amp rocked those subs! The whole reason I even bought the amp was because I have seen it bump subs!

I ran out of ring terminals so my ground is bare wire connected to a seat bolt in the back of my Expedition, so I was thinking it might have a bad ground.

I also thought it might have been the used RCA's I got with this wiring. They are nicer gold-plated RCA's, but wasn't sure.

Any ideas at all? Took a multimeter to everything, RCA's tested fine, ground was re done but still no terminal(until tomorrow when shops are open) so I'm stumped. I'm guessing it's the crappy amp but like I said, it was just temporary. Buddy won't buy it back from me now.

2003 Ford Crown Victoria P71

2 12" Kicker CVX's

Audiopipe AP15001d

Stinger SR80 Isolator with DieHard 1200CCA battery

Streetwires 0awg

Secondary - 1998 Ford Expedition XLT

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That's weird man. At least you KNOW the stuff works. I would say double check all your amp settings and hu settings. The hu outputs might be the problem. If your running a hi/lo maybe check the outputs and peg them if you can.

Edited by baaudio

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Subs are wired perfect to 2 ohms in the box. I know the kid who had the amp before me had his subs at 1 ohm, but come on my subs should STILL be bumping harder.

That's weird man. At least you KNOW the stuff works. I would say double check all your amp settings and hu settings. The hu outputs might be the problem. If your running a hi/lo maybe check the outputs and peg them if you can.

It's very strange. and what do you mean by Hi/Lo outputs? My Head unit is a JVC KD-S100. I have seperate RCA Subwoofer outputs and more different RCA inputs for A/V shit.

Oh, and tomorrow, I'm adding a second battery with a Stinger isolator.

Edited by abaddon

2003 Ford Crown Victoria P71

2 12" Kicker CVX's

Audiopipe AP15001d

Stinger SR80 Isolator with DieHard 1200CCA battery

Streetwires 0awg

Secondary - 1998 Ford Expedition XLT

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Subs are wired perfect to 2 ohms in the box. I know the kid who had the amp before me had his subs at 1 ohm, but come on my subs should STILL be bumping harder.

It's very strange. and what do you mean by Hi/Lo outputs? My Head unit is a JVC KD-S100. I have seperate RCA Subwoofer outputs and more different RCA inputs for A/V shit.

Oh, and tomorrow, I'm adding a second battery with a Stinger isolator.

Are you sure you have the positive wire from the subs running to the positive terminal in the amp and the negative to negative, or if there's a phase switch its not on 180. This sounds like the problem.

Edited by vengfuldev

Start out boxy, shape as you move along.

Dc Audio

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i have the same headunit :P ^^^ yea i'd say its the ground cause im running a kicker cvt (just for now) of a rf 500.2 with a body ground, no trouble at all. sound comes out nice and clear

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A hi/lo is an adapter you put in to convert speaker wires into rca outputs. This is only on stock hu that they do this. But ya I agree^^^ ground is the problem

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seat belt bolts suck...lol wait until u get a real ground with a ring terminal and re check.

also make sure your filters on the amp are set right. 80 for lpf usually...

check fuses and wiring. did u try adjusting the bass volume from the head unit?

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ive barebacked wire for ground before.. so thats not the problem.. unless its a bad ground spot..

i would check your head unit..

take your volt meter and put it on dc volts and play a song with the woofers not attached.. check for dc voltage coming out of the amp.. dc volts = bad

then swap to ac volts and see how many volts its putting out.. if any..

double check the ohm load coming out of the box.. if its still 2 the woofers would have to be dual 2 ohm woofers

if they check out

take a 9 volt battery and run it to the terminal on the speaker box.. positve to positive and neg to negative.. keep it on there for a second. only long enough to see which way they move..

if one moves in and one moves out.. theres your problem.. if they both move the same way. well then your sol lol

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