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SMD/LVL 5 Warhorse F150. 10/18 new XS POWER


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THE SMD IS NOT BLOWN!!!! I REPEAT IS NOT BLOWN!!!!

It still might not be coincidence... Are those batteries new? I would just be sure to double check everything you changed since the X's were in there (ground, batts, etc).

you wont need a recone for an SMD unless you hook it directly up to your car battery and let it roast. If you stick with manufacturer's recommendations for power and you keep it clean (unclipped or not clipped hard at least), it should last a long LONG time.

oh there is no recone kits available for the SMD - its slightly more complicated then normal....you gotta send it in so i wouldnt TRY to blow it on purpose if i was you :)

No recones? Seriously? Or just no recones unless you're brave or special tools? I had my dealer ask when I bought them and he was told yes. I would have never bought them had I known I would have to send them back to recone.

I'm expecting a recone sooner or later because stuff breaks, it's not a question of if, it's a question of when. There is NO PRODUCT on the face of the planet that is 100% reliable, NONE, they don't exist. There are ALWAYS variances without question and in products that are assembled by hand it's even worse. Being loyal to your brand is one thing, but suggesting that these subs are 100% infallible? I don't fault you at all for being loyal, defending AA, and defending yourself, but sooner or later someone will have one that just broke.

I love my subs and they sound better than any I have heard to date in their class (they roll, they hum, and they are smooth)... Well I did until I was just told what they cost to get fixed, hundreds in shipping plus the cone, great news.... =@ For the record I'm not concerned about the power I have now or them failing out of nowhere, it's the next upgrade that I worry about.

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THE SMD IS NOT BLOWN!!!! I REPEAT IS NOT BLOWN!!!!

Yesssssssss...but guess what? Mine wasn't either! I just wanted a reason to build a wall. :lol: Just jokes. But that's great news man

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get your solder hotter. doesnt look like it stuck.

It stuck on the front I couldnt get around to the back without it just falling off. I am going to hook it up just to test and make sure it works on like 1k and then take it out and send it back to be fixed the right way. I have designed a tline for 1 18 that I want to try out and se how well it works for my truck.

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Yesssssssss...but guess what? Mine wasn't either! I just wanted a reason to build a wall. :lol: Just jokes. But that's great news man

I actually gasped a little in the second sentence, then I finished reading the post..lol

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

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Yesssssssss...but guess what? Mine wasn't either! I just wanted a reason to build a wall. :lol: Just jokes. But that's great news man

Im glad i didnt have the first one!!!! hopefully putting on new terminals is a simple fix. and can be done and turned back around to me.

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Here is a video I made earlier to send to Kicker Tech Support to find out if there is anything wrong with my amp. None of the reading make any sense whatsoever. This just reinforces that this amp is just so different than anything else on the market. I will talk back to Kicker tomorrow and be able to talk to one of the engineers that designed and built the amp to be able to find out how to properly test and scope the amp.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qmx5HtOOwdo

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Well I might as well confirm the rumor. Yes I have now blown a dc lvl 5 and a SMD in the span of 3 days. Both are going back to be reconed and fixed. I have also been on the phone with kicker and have some tests to run before I send the Warhorse in to be warrentied. Best I can tell is the the amp is leaking DC current when I crank it up to 10k. At 5k it is perfectly fine. In the mean time while I am waiting I am thinking about trying the good DC in a tline.

hey cody, by chance were both "broken" subs closer to the port? (driver side)

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hey cody, by chance were both "broken" subs closer to the port? (driver side)

No the SMD was on the driver side but I think the DC was on the passenger side. What are your thoughts on this?

Wow. That's above my pay grade, but I have a question for you. Are you using a 40hz test tone to set your gains?

Yep 40hz 0db test tone. Track 8 from the rockford 3sixty setup cd.

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No the SMD was on the driver side but I think the DC was on the passenger side. What are your thoughts on this?

my guess is he was gonna suggest a loading issue.

Yep 40hz 0db test tone. Track 8 from the rockford 3sixty setup cd.

We use 50 hz and cycle back through each frequency to check the wave.

I thought I told you that?

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