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2 smds 1 kicker warhorse?


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You can, you just end up with a 1 ohm load (turn the gains way down!), or a 4 ohm load..

:facepalm:

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

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Make sure before you order your subs that you are completely familiar with how the warhorse powers your subs. To power 2 subs at 2 ohms per coil you will need to get Dual 1 ohm subs.

After my experience with my 2 SMDs and my Warhorse, you dont have enough airspace to get maximum performance out of the SMDs. I had mine in 3 different boxes. 5.5, 6,and 6.5 per sub after displacements. I did not have the room to go any bigger than the 6.5 per sub after displacements. If I had the room to do what I wanted to do, I would recommend giving the SMDs 7.5-8 ft3 after displacements. The 2 SMDs will take the 10k of the warhorse with NO problems.

I can tell you from what I have done myself that I have just switched from the 2 SMD 18s to 4 DC XL 15s. With basically the same airspace, the XLs (In my opnion) beat the SMDs hands down. Obviously cone area has alot to do with this, but for overall sound quality and performance I am happier with the XLs.

One other thing to think about before buying SMDs is if you decide you dont want them anymore, SMDs are not the easiest things to sell and you wont get anywhere close to your money back for them.

If you have any questions about he warhorse feel free to PM me.

hey CJ, the smd i own now is 2 ohms its wired down to 1 ohm tho, can't you just wire 2 ohm subs to 1 ohm them connect them into series to make them 2?

heres the link that proves this

im thinking about putting a 12 cubic box tuned to 28 hertz get 4 more d3100s and then later just keep adding to my electrical. i have read that u can adjust the wattage on this amp so first i'll have it down and then turn it up as the electrical gets better.

right now i have 2 optimas up from 1 xs d5100 in the back. and a DC 270xp alternator(2nd one will be added later on)

Here is your basic wiring guide for a warhorse

1 Sub- D2

2 Subs- D1/D4

4 Subs- D2

8 Subs- D1/D4

As you can see each time you double the amount of subs the ohm subs just flip flop from D2-D1/D4

When you are wiring 2 subs to the warhorse you have to look at the coils separately. If you have 2 coil 1s then they have D1s or D4s to achieve a final ohm load of 2 for that coil. You just do the same for coil 2.

yah i guess ima have to sell my D2 and get 2 D1s now. because the amp is here. and i was looking at the training video and it shows you how i think it is 4 2400 is equivalent 8 batteries so that means 4 xs d3100 is perfect.

did you sell ur d1s?

Yeah Ive sold both of mine. Just to give you an idea about how many batteries and alts you will need, I have a single Mechman 270 amp alt dedicated to charging my 8 XS D3400s (32000 watts of power handling). At full tilt my voltage drops to 12.5v at the batteries and 12v at the amp.

If you would be interested I have made a set of 6 input terminals for my Warhorse to help get more current to the amp and help with the voltage drop at the amp. I have yet to hook the last 3 inputs up, I just finished making a fuse block for 6 250amp fuses.

You can, you just end up with a 1 ohm load (turn the gains way down!), or a 4 ohm load..

You cannot run at 1 ohm load on the warhorse at all. The amp will not function. At 2 ohms per coil it will put of 10k and with 4 ohms per coil it will put of 5k.

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You can, you just end up with a 1 ohm load (turn the gains way down!), or a 4 ohm load..

Dont post If you have NO clue about the warhorse Please!

THIS ^^^^^^^^!!!!!!

The warhorse is in NO WAY anything like ANY other amp on the market. If you dont own or have owned one in the past or are just an amplifier genius then you probably dont have any clue what you are talking about.

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So should you guys stop posting since you have displayed no knowledge of how to scope your output and apparently glossed over the rest of the thread where I and multiple other users were telling the person to not run at 1 ohm and how his subwoofer VC configuration will not be optimal for the amplifer?

I didnt say you can or should run it full tilt at 1 ohm. I only said it is possible with proper attenuation. Given that you guys dont seem to realize this i'm going to say you guys shouldnt as you would probably fry the amp.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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I dont see the Hype over the Warhorse personally.. You can get a much smaller amp that puts out more power and is more efficient for the same price

Im in no way bashing Kicker its just that is a BIG ass AMP...The actual amp itself not the power output

I hate the amp personally

Lol.

Its ok to hate something you personally don't understand how it works, or something that you will never have.

Grow up. You have no reasons why you hate it, cause you prolly do not have any facts.

Honest 1299 is a STEAL for that amp, if I had the extra money laying around, I would grab one up in a heartbeat.

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I dont see the Hype over the Warhorse personally.. You can get a much smaller amp that puts out more power and is more efficient for the same price

Im in no way bashing Kicker its just that is a BIG ass AMP...The actual amp itself not the power output

I hate the amp personally

Lol.

Its ok to hate something you personally don't understand how it works, or something that you will never have.

Grow up. You have no reasons why you hate it, cause you prolly do not have any facts.

Honest 1299 is a STEAL for that amp, if I had the extra money laying around, I would grab one up in a heartbeat.

all I'm going to do is laugh at you, you don't even know who I am.

mcintoshsigz.png

previously known as wenn_du_weinst aka fucking internet coward supreme.  I talk shit on other forums like a little bitch and hope i don't get caught out on the street.  

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how about you tell us instead of hiding behind a forum and waggling a finger?

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I dont see the Hype over the Warhorse personally.. You can get a much smaller amp that puts out more power and is more efficient for the same price

Im in no way bashing Kicker its just that is a BIG ass AMP...The actual amp itself not the power output

I hate the amp personally

Lol.

Its ok to hate something you personally don't understand how it works, or something that you will never have.

Grow up. You have no reasons why you hate it, cause you prolly do not have any facts.

Honest 1299 is a STEAL for that amp, if I had the extra money laying around, I would grab one up in a heartbeat.

all I'm going to do is laugh at you, you don't even know who I am.

Yeah, you would take a brand new car and "unbolt" the mufflers.

You don't look like nobody special? Or did you state any reasons behind why you "hate" that amp.

Go ahead big boy.

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Make sure before you order your subs that you are completely familiar with how the warhorse powers your subs. To power 2 subs at 2 ohms per coil you will need to get Dual 1 ohm subs.

After my experience with my 2 SMDs and my Warhorse, you dont have enough airspace to get maximum performance out of the SMDs. I had mine in 3 different boxes. 5.5, 6,and 6.5 per sub after displacements. I did not have the room to go any bigger than the 6.5 per sub after displacements. If I had the room to do what I wanted to do, I would recommend giving the SMDs 7.5-8 ft3 after displacements. The 2 SMDs will take the 10k of the warhorse with NO problems.

I can tell you from what I have done myself that I have just switched from the 2 SMD 18s to 4 DC XL 15s. With basically the same airspace, the XLs (In my opnion) beat the SMDs hands down. Obviously cone area has alot to do with this, but for overall sound quality and performance I am happier with the XLs.

One other thing to think about before buying SMDs is if you decide you dont want them anymore, SMDs are not the easiest things to sell and you wont get anywhere close to your money back for them.

If you have any questions about he warhorse feel free to PM me.

hey CJ, the smd i own now is 2 ohms its wired down to 1 ohm tho, can't you just wire 2 ohm subs to 1 ohm them connect them into series to make them 2?

heres the link that proves this

im thinking about putting a 12 cubic box tuned to 28 hertz get 4 more d3100s and then later just keep adding to my electrical. i have read that u can adjust the wattage on this amp so first i'll have it down and then turn it up as the electrical gets better.

right now i have 2 optimas up from 1 xs d5100 in the back. and a DC 270xp alternator(2nd one will be added later on)

Here is your basic wiring guide for a warhorse

1 Sub- D2

2 Subs- D1/D4

4 Subs- D2

8 Subs- D1/D4

As you can see each time you double the amount of subs the ohm subs just flip flop from D2-D1/D4

When you are wiring 2 subs to the warhorse you have to look at the coils separately. If you have 2 coil 1s then they have D1s or D4s to achieve a final ohm load of 2 for that coil. You just do the same for coil 2.

yah i guess ima have to sell my D2 and get 2 D1s now. because the amp is here. and i was looking at the training video and it shows you how i think it is 4 2400 is equivalent 8 batteries so that means 4 xs d3100 is perfect.

did you sell ur d1s?

Yeah Ive sold both of mine. Just to give you an idea about how many batteries and alts you will need, I have a single Mechman 270 amp alt dedicated to charging my 8 XS D3400s (32000 watts of power handling). At full tilt my voltage drops to 12.5v at the batteries and 12v at the amp.

If you would be interested I have made a set of 6 input terminals for my Warhorse to help get more current to the amp and help with the voltage drop at the amp. I have yet to hook the last 3 inputs up, I just finished making a fuse block for 6 250amp fuses.

You can, you just end up with a 1 ohm load (turn the gains way down!), or a 4 ohm load..

You cannot run at 1 ohm load on the warhorse at all. The amp will not function. At 2 ohms per coil it will put of 10k and with 4 ohms per coil it will put of 5k.

So you got 1 alternator? because im thinking about putting my stock alternator back in and have my DC one. intotal they'll make 410 amps. and like 220-240 amps at idle (my stock alt is 140 amps DC one is 270)

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