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Mechman Alternators

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so i just installed my 270 amp alternator today and i also installed a brand new xs power d3400 under the hood of my 2003 ford explorer 4.0l v6. as soon as everything was done i started the car and everything was fine except my battery light was on and still is. i played some music to see how good the alternator work and it worked excellent, voltage didnt drop below 13.8. i noticed the alternator seems to shut off at exactly 800 rpm? on my way home tonight i was playing some music and i noticed the voltaged dropped into the mid 12's. i turned everything down and it didnt charge back up for about 20 seconds. it would charge very slow until about 13.2 and then it would jump to 14.5. what is making it do this? all the connections are good and nothing has changed since i first installed it so why is it acting up now? also why would the battery light be on if it never was before?

6 dc level 3 12's

digital designs Z1A

pioneer h/u

4 sets of rockford 6.5's

crunch 1600.4

Mechman 270a alt

kinetik hc2400 (soon to be xs power d3100)

xs power 3400 (under the hood)

lots of 1/0

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I know sometimes the battery light will come on with after market alts, because they have a higher charging voltage. Ive read that on a few other posts.

MY TRUCK BUILD - 1976 F-100 Ranger. Fully built 482 big block, 4 DC lvl4 15's in a blowthrough, plenty of custom fabrication.

MY HATCH BUILD - 1993 Honda Civic DX Hatchback . Clean daily driver, dropped, subtle customization.

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i've checked them all and the seem pretty solid to me. i'll have to take a closer look tomorrow but i dont think that is it.

6 dc level 3 12's

digital designs Z1A

pioneer h/u

4 sets of rockford 6.5's

crunch 1600.4

Mechman 270a alt

kinetik hc2400 (soon to be xs power d3100)

xs power 3400 (under the hood)

lots of 1/0

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ok so after looking over everything yesterday i've found that the belt is slipping due to very little wrap around the pully itself. the only problem is i have no idea on how i could fix this. the way the tensioner is it seems like the more the it push's out on the belt the more its unloading the alternator. any suggestions on how to fix this? and i still have no idea why the battery light is on. i called mechman and they said it was odd and that it shouldn't be on.

6 dc level 3 12's

digital designs Z1A

pioneer h/u

4 sets of rockford 6.5's

crunch 1600.4

Mechman 270a alt

kinetik hc2400 (soon to be xs power d3100)

xs power 3400 (under the hood)

lots of 1/0

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The battery light issue definitely sounds like the cars computer not acknowledging the higher charging voltage/higher current flow correctly. And the belt slip, you might need to order a belt 1/2 inch smaller than the one you have now

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200a alt. by Excessive Amperage

hc800 under hood & 2 Deka 9a31 in rear

1/0awg + big 3

SAZ 3000D

HDC3 18" @ 2 ohm

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Making a bracket for a backside idler is def. the way to address the belt slip issue. Perhaps someday we might develop a kit for that is one of those vehicles ever comes in the shop.

The battery light should NOT be on with that unit and that vehicle. There is something going on somewhere. Check everything out thoroughly, because the regulator tested fine before we shipped it. I double checked the build sheet and it has the correct regulator in it for your vehicle.

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