wL<3bass Posted January 23, 2011 Report Posted January 23, 2011 I crimp and solder everything from 8-0g and I just solder 8-14g... Crimping is by far a better than soldering, solder is less conductive than copper and with a GOOD set of crimpers it actually "smashes" the strands so hard together they become fused. I didn't believe in crimping til I used a set of my friend malco or klein crimper can't remember which but I tried to pull the terminal off with a pair of pliers and tore the wire behind the crimped terminal... Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references...
fritosaregood Posted January 23, 2011 Report Posted January 23, 2011 Idc what everyone else says. I solder no matter what kinda wire it is. With all the vibrations in the car, shit will come loose eventually. Would you rather have a 100 story skyscraper just "locked" together, or a welded frame? Yeah. So the fact that all stock battery connections are crimped means nothing with all those vibrations.. more than likely it's just rusted itself onto the terminal permenetly now anyways. And yeah, soldered connections are good to reuse as well. Saving money. Since when does copper rust? technically its all oxidation, rust is just the most popular word for iron oxide.. seller feedback: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=61719 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=68281 build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=44800 Gf's build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/54346-kickergirls-camaro-new-box-pg-5/#entry753970
Ford302Redneck Posted January 23, 2011 Report Posted January 23, 2011 Idc what everyone else says. I solder no matter what kinda wire it is. With all the vibrations in the car, shit will come loose eventually. Would you rather have a 100 story skyscraper just "locked" together, or a welded frame? Yeah. So the fact that all stock battery connections are crimped means nothing with all those vibrations.. more than likely it's just rusted itself onto the terminal permenetly now anyways. And yeah, soldered connections are good to reuse as well. Saving money. Since when does copper rust? copper for sure tarnishes... rust not so much Am I the only one that realized that guy was just talking out his ass? Cause he couldn't come up with a real answer why crimp stock electrical isn't as good as solder. Actually no wire manufacture I've seen sends you solder terminals, all are crimp. But I'm sure it has to do with time, easiness of it.
fritosaregood Posted January 23, 2011 Report Posted January 23, 2011 You stated only reason the factory crimp was holding was cause of rust. Maybe you just misinterpreted the word rust. I know when I started this car audio a while back, my terminals had tons of built up gunk on the terminals on the battery, then when Iwent to redo the bat to engine block the whole terminaly basically cracked. After taking it off there was tons of corrosion, and rendered pretty much useless. Same goes with most of the other stock ones. the wire still never came out seller feedback: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=61719 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=68281 build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=44800 Gf's build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/54346-kickergirls-camaro-new-box-pg-5/#entry753970
Alex K Posted January 23, 2011 Report Posted January 23, 2011 You stated only reason the factory crimp was holding was cause of rust. Maybe you just misinterpreted the word rust. I know when I started this car audio a while back, my terminals had tons of built up gunk on the terminals on the battery, then when Iwent to redo the bat to engine block the whole terminaly basically cracked. After taking it off there was tons of corrosion, and rendered pretty much useless. Same goes with most of the other stock ones. the wire still never came out True. 2006 Nissan Z Track. My Feedback Thread i used to think a band pass was something you were around your neck or something.
Emoxihax Posted January 23, 2011 Report Posted January 23, 2011 Personally, I like to place the wire in the ring terminal. and hammer the shit out of it. then electric tape it and make it look pretty 2004 Volkswagen GLI 1 10" Skar VVX ^^^ Looking for an amp to run it, Pm me if you have one ^^^
osamio Posted January 23, 2011 Report Posted January 23, 2011 Depends on the terminal you use. 2009 Cobalt LT Pioneer Headunit 2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp 4x Pioneer 6 1/2 Pioneer GM-6400F Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P 2x Champion series PRO 12" subs 0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery To come: New or repaired DTR!!
osamio Posted January 23, 2011 Report Posted January 23, 2011 soldering with pure silver is best and is most conductive and i would recommend soldering 4 and 0ga wire usually if the solder joint is good solder has better conductivity in general Ah but silver-bead solder SUCKS. It has to get SO much hotter. Lead/tin solder flows so much better. The conductivity shouldn't matter THAT much, most of the copper is in direct contact with the terminal anyway. 2009 Cobalt LT Pioneer Headunit 2x Pioneer 6 1/2 (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 1" tweeters (stock amp) 2x Pioneer 6x9 (stock amp 4x Pioneer 6 1/2 Pioneer GM-6400F Soundstream DTR 1700 R.I.P 2x Champion series PRO 12" subs 0 AWG Big 3, Stinger SP1700 battery To come: New or repaired DTR!!
speedball1978 Posted January 23, 2011 Report Posted January 23, 2011 soldering with pure silver is best and is most conductive and i would recommend soldering 4 and 0ga wire usually if the solder joint is good solder has better conductivity in general Ah but silver-bead solder SUCKS. It has to get SO much hotter. Lead/tin solder flows so much better. The conductivity shouldn't matter THAT much, most of the copper is in direct contact with the terminal anyway. ^^^^^ x20, i couldn't have come up with a better answer than this...the wires are already in contact with the terminal, if you soak the wire with solder it will eventually bond all strands together as it if was one big copper wire, just because solder gives you more resistance i don't think you would actually see a difference in voltage IMO
evermaxx Posted January 23, 2011 Report Posted January 23, 2011 Crimping ftw. Team Subsonic Lows Get your garbage EMF products of my amp bitch Man....it makes a nice work bench
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