bigmescan Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Ok I have 2 bolts for my terminals.and the neg term has a burn mark on the mdf. But the pos has no burn mark. What could cause this. Quote SONY XAV-701HDRF power 400.4 RF power 1000bd 3 Sundown x8's d22004 f150 single cab2 sets of components MB quart 6.5 onx (2 tweets 2 6.5 perdoor)stock batt up fronBIG 3http://www.stevemead...-vid-pg-11-922/http://www.youtube.c.../TheBigmescan74 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Ok I have 2 bolts for my terminals.and the neg term has a burn mark on the mdf. But the pos has no burn mark. What could cause this. terminals to what? Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fmedina Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 check all connections? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billy101 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Ok I have 2 bolts for my terminals.and the neg term has a burn mark on the mdf. But the pos has no burn mark. What could cause this. terminals to what? I'm guessing he has bolts going through his MDF box, and then connecting the subs up that way; and the negative bolt has a burn mark on the MDF. I don't know why it's doing this, but for some reason when my friend grounded his amp to the strut tower in his car, the bolt and ring terminal got pretty damn hot too, only on the ground side...the positive side was cool as room temp...very weird. Quote First System 2002 Impala LS 3.8L V6, 128,365k miles. Alternator: DC Power 190Amp H/O Alternator Headunit: Kenwood KDC-BT945U. Speakers: MBQuart 6.5" Comps, 6x9 3-way. Amplifer: Eclipse 3322 on front 6.5 components, and a Infinity Kappa One @ 2ohm- 800w Subwoofers: 2 REAudio SRX12D2 wired to 2 ohm. Box: 3.1cuft box tuned to 33hz. sealed off to cabin Big 3- done with all Knukonceptz KCA 0 gauge. Don't drop below 14.1v at full tilt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Two words high current draw = bad ground Quote Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I'm guessing he has bolts going through his MDF box, and then connecting the subs up that way; and the negative bolt has a burn mark on the MDF. I don't know why it's doing this, but for some reason when my friend grounded his amp to the strut tower in his car, the bolt and ring terminal got pretty damn hot too, only on the ground side...the positive side was cool as room temp...very weird. yeah the MDF thing is throwing me off. my guess is it's just a bad connection, that resistance creates lots of heat. Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soapbox Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Two words high current draw = bad ground Ding Ding Ding we have a winner! Quote TEAM FLEX ISSUES, TEAM DC AUDIO 2010 California State Finals Champion MECA AS2 2011 California State Champion Meca S2 2011 California State Record holder Meca S2 2012 Meca Mod 4 class 152.5 and rising Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Two words high current draw = bad ground Ding Ding Ding we have a winner! unless it a speaker terminal. OP seems to have gone away so who knows. Still same idea i guess, either speaker or a ground, the heat is a bad connection. Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpydonut Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Not trying to thread jack, but wouldn't using bolts be a bad idea for speaker wire through the MDF? I hear people always complain about the little plastic terminal boxes because they suck but wouldn't a bolt be not much better because of the lack of conductivity? I plan on putting a grommet and just running my wire straight to the subs. Quote 2003 Mitsubishi Lancer Pioneer DEH5100-UB 2 - P1S412 4 - Alpine SRS-600 Alpine MRP-M500 Monster 8g power/ground-1/0 Big 3 Soon to come: 2 - T1D212 RF T1500.1bdCP RF T500.4bd Mechman 220 amp alt Kinetik KHC1800 Hit me up if you need help with anything in the Tulsa Area. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 you should see almost zero issues with the bolt idea. Its pretty widely used and is much easier than a hole and sealing it up. I have done both ways though. resistance of the bolt is almost indetectable. you'd have to try it and see though. Quote THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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