Joe X Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 Are you sure the box is designed correctly? What are the dimensions, and how long is that 6" port? 16"H, 18"D, 32"W, 6" aero, 15" before inner flare, around 14" after flare. Sub up, port towards rear of vehicle... Just checking, you list 18" as external depth and 15" of port length (firing back), so you do not meet by far the recommended 6" port clearance from the back wall if I am understanding right. A choked port could result or at least contribute in the issues you are experiencing. In any case post some pics of the box as located in your vehicle, should help to understand what's going on there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 I'm still learning on box design and not an expert by any means but 1. The direction of port and subs 2. Material used 3. Bracing 4. And placement of port and sub ( making sure the sub can't unload in the port or something. Are all things that can greatly affect the outcome of the box. So pics would/could help As for the way it sou d in a car compared to a suv is a big difference. Different cabin gains, different resonant freq, and all together different results. If using different sub(s) and box compared to the car then your comparing 2 completely different things. Are you sure the box is designed correctly? What are the dimensions, and how long is that 6" port? 16"H, 18"D, 32"W, 6" aero, 15" before inner flare, around 14" after flare. Sub up, port towards rear of vehicle... Just checking, you list 18" as external depth and 15" of port length (firing back), so you do not meet by far the recommended 6" port clearance from the back wall if I am understanding right. A choked port could result or at least contribute in the issues you are experiencing. In any case post some pics of the box as located in your vehicle, should help to understand what's going on there. The port protrudes out of the box about 5", so clearance isn't an issue. Box is also braced with 45's and coated with fiberglass inside. Different from the box that was in the car, but the tuning frequency and cubes are around the same, and it's the same amp. Probably still comparing apples to oranges, lol... I too am just starting to get into box design, that is why I wanted to figure this out before I went and built a new enclosure for two subs, that will not hit the lows. Here is my build log, should show you everything you need... Pics of the box I believe are on page 5. It isn't much to look at, port configuration was changed from the original ports that were in it before, with an HDC3 15. Hope this helps and thanks everyone for the replies! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted November 3, 2014 Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 I'm tuned at 24Hz, peak at 40Hz. Just the way your vehicle/enclosure is. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 I'm tuned at 24Hz, peak at 40Hz. Just the way your vehicle/enclosure is. That's what I was thinking, the vehicle. 24Hz? Wow.... can't get much lower than that. So no way of getting the lows out of this vehicle? :/ Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2014 I'm tuned at 24Hz, peak at 40Hz. Just the way your vehicle/enclosure is. Also, have to compliment you on your build again! Been tuned in for some time and was what made me decide to do a build log. You ever get the smell problem figured out? Mine was doing the same thing on low frequencies and turned out it was clipping :/ Guessing that's not your issue, hope you get it figured out! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gckless Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 I'm tuned at 24Hz, peak at 40Hz. Just the way your vehicle/enclosure is. That's what I was thinking, the vehicle. 24Hz? Wow.... can't get much lower than that. So no way of getting the lows out of this vehicle? :/ Well just by looking at your problem, sounds a lot like the enclosure, be it size, porting, or sub/port firing direction, especially if you're getting cancellation at 35. Another thing worth noting: some HUs have a feature for BT and hands-free calling that severely cuts certain frequencies around 35-40Hz, so eliminate road noise, rumble, and possible feedback. Not saying this is your problem, but it might be worth looking into and maybe an email to Clarion. All that said, these SUVs do tend to peak higher. I'm tuned at 24Hz, peak at 40Hz. Just the way your vehicle/enclosure is. Also, have to compliment you on your build again! Been tuned in for some time and was what made me decide to do a build log. You ever get the smell problem figured out? Mine was doing the same thing on low frequencies and turned out it was clipping :/ Guessing that's not your issue, hope you get it figured out! Thanks for following! It's just the enclosure. Combination of being too small and too close to the roof. Going to trade for two 15" TRFs more than likely. "Clipping" is the biggest forum boner now. It's like witchcraft... it automatically explains just about everything people don't understand. My build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/200295-gckless-2011-chevrolet-impala/ High resolution photos: Gilbert Kless Photography Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DylanBunch Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 I have an 06 explorer and before I walled it I had the same problem. The car just doesn't like the 30s, now that I have I wall it helped a lot and the dip isn't noticeable but everything flexes a lot in the 30s still. Just something you gotta deal with. I des ascended my roof and it helped some 2006 Ford Explorer 2 Team AA/Sundown 15s 6th order Ct Sounds 7k 4 PRV Mr500 8s Rockford p1000-2 Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 Sorry, unfamiliar term to me lol... dis ascended? I thought about walling it but that would require removing the back seat, right? Or can a wall for 2-3 15's be done without removing rear seat? Starting to think I have too little sub for too much space so walling one or two more would surely solve the problem, just really would like to keep my rear seats. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel989 Posted November 4, 2014 Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 C-pillar wall Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted November 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2014 C-pillar wall Is a C-pillar wall up to the front seats, or back seats? Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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