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kr15

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About kr15

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    California
  • Interests
    Running ports out my windows aimed at other cars and playing test tones

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  1. I would do the 4 8s or 3 10s...The 10s are more cone area and would allow you to wire to .66, the 8s however could be wired to .5. I wouldnt even consider the other choices with the power on tap
  2. Im about to start a wall of 4 15s already....would be fun to have one of these 8s to screw around with tho
  3. there is always next year...do a shit ton of them in a BP wall
  4. thats a nice looking driver...leave em as 8s, force people to run 8s. LOL...start a trend of people walling a shit ton of 8s
  5. i NEVER smelt coil when breaking in my VVXs. My guess is that your clipping, and if your using the amp in your sig, its certainly the guilty party. And I had a bc2k at .5 out of the gate on mine, so power wasnt the issue
  6. lol, that shits beast....i guess Bill has some beef with your windows mario if those are his plans....he already had beef with Ray's windshield....bill doesnt like windows so he makes builds that break them
  7. 1.26 will be fine, and I wouldnt be surprised at all if it surprises you. The LVL 3s are fairly linear, so I bet you get a nice bandwidth sealed. Generally, a larger box will allow better low end extension. I also think that sealed box's being quiet are overstated. Certainly not as loud as a well built ported box, but i have ran single sealed 12 setups in the past on 1k that did plenty well enough.
  8. lol, exactly...20hz ball sack flap will clearly show prominent low end extension..sq is subjective, so for some of us, 55+ sounds spectacular..lol
  9. your stating the obvious, but I can almost assure that a DD amp is going to handle as much abuse as any on the market. Im running mine at .5 on stock electrical and a single xs3400 in the rear and have been doing so for over a year, and I get nasty voltage drop full tilt. It never protects, never gets hot etc. Now, I would NEVER suggest someone do what I do, nor would I ever tell someone that an 11.9v rating means they are stable to that kind of sustained abuse....but back to the topic of DC amps, I was merely pointing out the difference between a 12v rating and intentions for a "12v system" as there seemed to be some confusion... Im sure this 10k is going to be a monster and I would hope that most people who even consider these have over the top electrical, no point in frying an amp that will cost how knows how much, but im sure in the range of 2k$. People like Ray who would consider an amp like this are electrical nazi's; they will ensure that their amps are fed optimal juice...tuned in for results
  10. cant wait to hear this, the LV 3's are my favorite sounding DC sub, perfect balance of output and sq for my tastes
  11. Any clue what they can do around that voltage?... Ray, you should do that if you are able to upgrade, your still running 14v right?
  12. The 9k's were fuckin beasts, and due to higher voltage stability, they would have higher potential then the 10k. That said, for those that are limited to 12v charging to maintain a classification for competing, then perhaps the 10k would be better. I think the low voltage thing veered off with DD because the amps are rated at 11.9v, and some at 12v where as the DC 10k is intended for a "12v system". And the m4a's are beast, ask Ray right above, he clamped a shade under 12k out of a pair strapped....all that said, fuck the bullshit ray, when are you going to put in 2 9s or 10s?
  13. I know Damore doesnt have time for this shit, but I personally would be interested in them doing another tutorial video refuting the claims. Its not their job to refute claims, however, their past vids have been extremely informative.....and Im basically not going to take Joe Blows claims about a product if they arent from Damore
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