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Ok. Maybe I’m just not reading something write which is totally possible Can someone please list out the steps to a system with a dsp. My system as follows. Stock head unit high level in (speaker wires) to Dm-608 to 3 amps. Highs amp. 2chammel mids. 4 channel sub. 1 channel not deep. I can’t find any data on how to use dd1 with a dsp thx dman

This is the box that I have designed according to the Specs I could find on Sundown's Site. https://subbox.pro/en/design/?bt=2&bw=600&bh=533.4&bv=120.3&mt=16&fp=1&sq=1&ss=15&cd=351.3&md=275.6&sv=6.2&so=0&sd=20&sb=&sn=&pt=4&pq=1&rf=32&pd=236.41&pw=2&pa=438.74&pp=100#

Does anyone know anything about these amps? there is literally nothing about them online. I was looking at getting ether the Saev4.150 or the Down4Sound JP34. would ether be better than the other? what is the build quality of the sundown? their site even states its basically not built to the standards of the salt amps so I am kinda wondering if I should even touch it and just get the down4sound amp.

This is my first time posting on the forum and I'm very new to all things car audio. I've done lots of research but I keep running into the roadblock of what box design I should build. I have a Sundown X15 V2 paired with a Kicker 1200CX (I plan to upgrade this later it is just what I have at the moment so if you have any recommendations feel free to leave those as well). I am putting the box in the trunk of a 2021 Honda Accord Touring. I mainly listen to Rap Music with some EDM/Dubstep intermittently. I got the X15 as I was missing the low-frequency response that I desired in my old system. My main question is how I should design the box. I want a box that plays the lows well without being peaky and making the box as small as possible to maintain as much trunk space as I can. Any advice is appreciated so thanks ahead of time.

Yeah these aren't fused , never been a fan of fused ones personally. This was basically a block with 4 bolts and a cover.

Do a slot port with 100 sqin of port area, 9 net volume.

I have a 2021Sentra SV big screen no Bose. It’s not audible for me. I intend to use a 5.1300 and may opt for a custom enclosure. Audio Control has no one who carries their full line of gear, and certainly no local car radio place is adequate. I really don’t want to do the installation myself but don’t want to be Moke. The installation will likely require an upgrade to the factory charging system, but Mechman is only a 6 miles away. I’m to old to want to assume the installation position, and too deaf to live with the factory junk.

@ehall8702 What were you linking here? It's no longer there. I also need a fused distribution block that has 2/0 input and preferably 1/0 or 2 awg output. Also need more than 1 input, and at least 4 output. Or 1 input / 8 output. Thanks.

From many places, here is one: https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-61378-SMD-DD-1-Distortion-Detector-Analyzer.html

With a small scope you could compare the 0 dB tone with the tracks you have, might explain what you are experiencing.

^^^ hes got a point there... i didnt catch that

Hi my name is Dane Moreau. I would also like to know where I can buy a used SMD Distortion Detector. And also a used AMM1. If anyone knows where I can find this please let me know. Thanks

Your box seems to be dual 0.75 layer all around except for the bottom, how can your box width be 14 and your port width be 12.5?

I have a dd1 and I will set my amp to clipping and then back off until the light turns off. But then when I play music it will clip at that same point. I have to be doing something wrong

there doesnt seem to be any info from the manufacturer about crossover frequency... most component crossovers wont have that spec listed. if it came with your equipment originally i would say its probably fine to run up to the rated power the manufacturer suggests. the best way to know what you are crossing over and rolling off at would be to go active crossover with a dsp, or other unit that lets you set those parameters. if i had to guess that crossover is probably a -16db slope at or near the low end of the frequency range of the tweeters

just realised this is a duplicate thread, and this one is in the wrong section. im copying and pasting my answer onto your other thread thats located correctly in case this thread gets locked/ deleted

there doesnt seem to be any info from the manufacturer about crossover frequency... most component crossovers wont have that spec listed. if it came with your equipment originally i would say its probably fine to run up to the rated power the manufacturer suggests. the best way to know what you are crossing over and rolling off at would be to go active crossover with a dsp, or other unit that lets you set those parameters. if i had to guess that crossover is probably a -16db slope at or near the low end of the frequency range of the tweeters

Hey Guys, 1 of my silks got damaged so am in the market for a new pair. I got the JL C2 6.5 components where the tweeters are 8ohm and a bit out of my budget right now. I reached out to JL where they said that if I use any other 4ohm or 6ohm tweeters (more available) it will increase the power the tweeter sees, which i understand. But they said it will also change the crossover points (raise or drop because of the change in ohm) on the passive crossover (C2s), in which i want to reuse. Ill add a picture of the crossover. Any way yall can calculate for me if it will raise or drop based on 4ohm and 6ohm? and if yall would know how much power the passive can actually handle based on viewing. Thanks

Hey guys, I know this is the wrong forum but it seems that you get quicker responses here. Can anyone assist me in understanding just for my knowledge what is this crossover doing? what frequencies rolling off at and where ect. Its for a JL C2. And if anyone knows how much power this can safety handle.

I threw together sample dimensions to come up with about 9.7ft^3. Two 6" aeroports at 16" length results in around 9ft^3 tuned to 27.5Hz. That's honestly way too little port area. For something closer to Kicker's "port ratio" (they give slot port dimensions on their website, converted the rule of thumb numbers to reflect an aeroport) you'd want to do something like a 10" aeroport from someone like BigAss-Ports. https://www.bigass-ports.com/product-p/10vt1.htm A single 10" port at 16" of length nets you 8.9ft^3 tuned to around 32Hz. That's just under 4.5ft^3 net per sub (right in the middle of 3-6ft^3 recommended by Kicker) and a conservative port area number.

I’ve looked around tons of websites and port calculators etc. I either get a really short Aeroport and then the sq inches of port per cube don’t add up to me. I’m looking to tune 32-35hz. My box is currently sealed and about 9.7 cubes after subs. I have 2 L7 15s and they’re firing up in my extended cab truck with 1/0 power/ground with 10guage speaker wire running off a hifonics Zeus 3200.1 I’m just curious if I need 2 6” ports at 16” length or what my brain is fried

Looking to build a box for a friend of mine for his 2 skar 12s he believes there just the SDRs but he has a trailblazer and likes slot ported either one in the center or one on each end of the enclosure. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Only done one other build for my American Bass XFL1544s.

you ought to be alright. just be mindful of things on the floor near the port. larger items near the port could change the way it plays.