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Possibly, or the ignition cylinder went bad. i would meter at the cylinder with alarm 12v disconnected

Authorized dealer? then yes! viper carries lifetime warranty.

Autotek: I would work on that ground first

Ground the RCA while its hooked up to the HU or try noise filters

It could be the HU putting out the noise though. if your ground is disconnected from your amplifier at a given time, it will try to ground through the RCAs. many amps ground the outer shield of the RCAs internally. the RCA is fused inside the headunit, If this happens, it goes and noise comes. it could also very well be a bad RCA.

You said you installed a head unit as well. being that there is no switch power, did you just use your remote wire as a relay for constant behind the radio?

Did you turn on ignition with any airbag plugs/ sensors unplugged? Sorry reading owns me. just saw you didnt unplug anything Maybe try running your remote lead to ignition instead of a random fuse? that could be an issue. Make sure you fuse your remote wire. even though the vehicle has one, just do it anyway

17v @ 220A > 14V 220A

If the phone was jailbroken and he did a reset on the phone (not on itunes, in the settings tab inside the phone) then it will be bricked. you have to plug it into itunes and do a full restore with newest FW version.

Kenwood excelons are good and price and awesome units. for 280 you can probably get a 995. way better than 117 imo

X995 on ebay

A damn sky roof lmao

Most remote starters have brake shutdown switches that prevents this. also Remote starting a vehicle does not disable wheel lock

Due to 5 yr inflation id say price has doubled

The DD-1 will be nice. The only other thing i will use my scope for is testing for CAN

Funky Pups

The only problem i see is Door trigger inputs and trunk inputs will be read at 16v when a zone is closed/open

Aux output from alarm to a relay to trunk pop, unless there is an accessible neg switch for trunk pop. Even if it does though i would still add a relay and give it a good ground. Year/make/model? I can draw you a diagram if you tell me what kind of car. also your trunk pop is electric not mechanical correct?

Actually scratch that. ground when armed is grounded when armed, which means with a key turn accessory would never come on.

I think a lot of people are under the impression that ported boxes dont sound good and are just made for output. If built correctly, you can make your ported box give you that SQ you crave, along with the extra output

unfortunately the only way to do starter kill with the actual starter wire is at the starter. easiest way to fix is kill accessory. The only problem with that is, if a theif stabs a screwdriver into your ignition and turns it to the on position, the alarm will kill accessory, and the vehicle will probably crank lol.

Alarm is going off? the relay clicking under the hood is the relay for your lights. they are flashing because the alarm is telling them to. if the siren/horn isnt hooked up and the alarm is going off, the only indication that the alarm is triggered is the lights flashing.

what about a few resistors with high tolerance in parallel to make a ~ .5 ohm load? http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=016-5 ten of these in parallel would = .5 ohms with a 100 watt rating At 16.8v you would be at 14v after the resistor, and at 14v rest you would be at 11.7

As far as doing the big 3, go as big as you can go. if you have 0 ga then great, if you only have 4 ga that will work as well in most applications. fuses fuses fuses. Prime amps are nice. They will do rated power. Try and do everything at once. pull the car apart and do it all in one go and it will make life much easier. Make sure all of your connections are solid. good grounds, properly crimped terminals, ETC. Learn how to tune your equipment properly. Put time and effort into your install. Dont just hook it up. dont worry about another alternator. you will be fine!

if you purchased a DBALL module and a DEI sytem install would be fairly easy for you. only problem is flashing it