bbeljefe

Forty degrees in October? For a whole week? Is that the high? FFS man, come down here where there's some heat. I don't do fuck all when it gets that cold unless it's an emergency. Matter of fact, I'm thinking of flying south for the winter if it gets bad (bad being below freezing for more than a day...two at the most). I honestly don't know how you guys run around in the cold for 11 months out of the year. :-P

The battery in your DD-1 is ~10 low. That's not good. Get a hot battery in it and try again. Make sure his bass and treble are flat and that there is no loudness feature turned on at the head unit. And what you described with the different tracks is correct function. The DD-1 detects distortion on the zero dB track before the -5 dB and on the -5 before the -10, etc. Basically, you have the option of setting the amp at zero distortion or, with the down dB tracks, up to 10% distortion (iirc). And he obviou trade off to introducing distortion is SPL. And if you get the same results with a hot battery in the DD-1, recommend that he buy a good quality LOC.

Nothing at all ghetto about adding bracing to the roof. It works very, very well and the fact that he used scrap that might otherwise have been tossed is a plus.

Yabut... what debate? And I always thought the best humor is that which is based in truth so... my shit ought to be making peoples' backs hurt from laughter. :-)

Is that supposed to be an argument? In case it is. No thanks. ;-)

So he's a really good bulshit liar who knows how to shake hands with a stuffy white asshole or a hip black asshole. If there were no government for him to be a part of, he'd be selling used cars or, perhaps, Kirby vacuums. We'd be a lot better off if his ilk were all peddling vacuums and "pre owned autos".

I would like to have seen the output at a half ohm. Mine are strapped at a half ohm each and I've not heard a whine out of em yet.

I figure that not too many people have had actual experience with these little amps so I shot a video of them in my truck. I really wasn't ready to do videos of it because NOTHING is anywhere near finished but, ah well, it's worth it to give everyone an idea of what their guesses should be. A little info ahead of the video. I'm running two of the 1400.1s strapped on two Sundown Zv3 15s in a t-line. I have a 200 amp alternator and two 110ah wet batteries under the hood with two runs of 1/0 +/-... one pair to each amp, plus the high amps are tapped to them. Also, the PCM is controlling voltage so as you'll see, I'm never above 13.3 and sitting at idle, I get some drops to the high 11s. I'm sure it would do a bit better with a constant 14.4. Teh vid, complete with the sexy Zv3s face down, ass up: Oh and, a little more info. The amplifiers in this truck were gain set on 0dB tracks with a DD-1hv. The clipping indicator on the CT Sounds bass knob caught the at distortion exactly the same time the DD-1 did.

Hey Steve How Does.The Dyno Read The 12 Vdc When It's Hooked.Up To 120AC Amplifiers don't output their input voltage, they output an AC signal that varies in amplitude with input signal strength. So... 100 watts produced by an AC powered amplifier looks exactly the same as 100 watts produced by a DC powered amplifier.

Oh hell... now that makes me think of the huge boom box I had as a kid. It was a real boom box, with speakers built in, a carrying handle and 8 D cell batteries. Had 6" woofers and 2" tweeters and it sounded like the best thing ever when I was 12. Probably cranked out about 8 wpc though... on FRESH batteries. But I also have two JVS systems like this Sony and they both have separate subwoofer channels and subs built into the speakers. Both were given to me, one BNIB and I use one for the computer and the other in the shop. The newer one claims, iirc, 160 watts for the subs. I don't know if it'll do that but I do use one of the sub channels test woofers and it will make them move pretty good so... who knows. Anyway, I think you'll get the reasonable rated power Sony buried in the specs. It's not too hard to make watts with high source voltage.

There's no way for me to say unless you can tell me how the coils are wired at the subs. What you have on the outside of the box is a parallel connection and that's fine. It's what's inside the box that we have to discover before we can find the problem.

No it won't, it will be exactly the same thing you have now, which is how the amp is designed, save the fact that Hifonics doesn't call it a 0.5Ω stable amp. You should have the woofers wired in series at the coils and then you should have one cable (two wires, + & -) from each, laid down on the two positive and two negative terminals on the amplifier. This will present the amp with a 2Ω load. From what it sounds like, you have one sub's coils wired in series and one sub's coil wired in parallel, and with how you have them wired at the amp, that presents it with a 0.8Ω load. That wouldn't cause the amp to go into protect but it would send twice as much power to one sub as the other, which would cause some acoustical cancellation between the two and thus, reduce their output. Check the wiring at the coils or get pictures and post them here, as was suggested.

To bring some clarity to this discussion, we have to assume that electrical is adequate and that the amplifier manufacturer didn't lie about the abilities of the amp. That out of the way... An amplifier can produce full power at its lowest preamp setting or its highest preamp setting. On the gain knob, that equates to all the way up as opposed to all the way down. I'll assume a head unit that can produce 4 volts of clean preamp output and you can assume that number is 25 of 35, 47 of 52 or whatever you like... because it really doesn't matter. What matters is that you set the amplifier's gain so that it produces its max power at 4 volts of preamp input. Once that is done, for each amplifier in they system, the volume of the mids/highs and subs will increase or decrease in a linear fashion as the volume is raised or lowered and, nothing will be taxed too hard unless the media is recorded dirty or the max undistorted head unit volume is exceeded. Now... change the above to a head unit that only produces 2 volts of preamp output, match the amp to it and you will have the same results. Where preference comes into play is that if you want louder bass... you gain set at a lower dB level. And if you want louder mids/highs, you set those amps with -dB tracks and set the sub amps at zero dB. In the real world though, we have to deal with the acoustics of vehicle cabins, along with the limitations of our equipment and that's why one set of tones don't always work for every system. But as Steve said, always check the head unit on a flat (0dB) track and always set amp gains with the head unit at max undistorted volume level.

Right, and I appreciate the honesty, no feelings hurt here. I have to learn somewhere. I used track 7, which is -15db, because the manual said (and not verbatim, going from memory) Use track 3 for a sound quality setup, 5 for a in the middle and 7 for a louder setup". Naturally my buddy said "louder please". Track one would be for pure SQ with little or no distortion, depending on the head unit's capabilities. Track three should be -5dB, which isn't so bad because it can help make up for music that has little bass or that has been recorded below flat. Just remember to use the tool at max undistorted volume and you'll be helping yourself and your buddies to have good sounding systems that can be played safely.

The level you want to listen at has nothing at all to do with setting the gains for safe use. Connect the DD-1 to his head unit outs and find its max undistorted volume and then set the gains at that volume level. That is how you calibrate the amplifier's preamp inputs with the preamp outputs on the head unit and it has nothing to do with the volume level you enjoy listening at. It might be that once the system is properly calibrated, he listens with the head unit at a higher volume setting but if that's the case then so be it. The DD-1 is a distortion detector, not a preference detector. Another thing with the method you used that's dangerous is that if some nitwit hops in his car and cranks the volume all the way up.... voice coils on the barbee. Especially since you were setting with a (correct me if I'm wrong) -15dB track. Personally, I would recommend that unless you're very well versed in electronics, you should never use the DD-1 on anything other than the first two tracks. And that's not an insult, just a comment meant to help people save blowing up their equipment.

Looks good man. I'm wondering though.... what did you sand the galvanized with (grit) and did you clear it afterwards? Oh and, thems some damn fine cuts wid da hand snips. I've seen seasoned AC guys who can't cut a round hole to save their ass.

Thanks a million man... 12 13/16" is just what I needed to know. I don't speak centimeters but I appreciate the extra effort you put in. :-)

I have an SA-15 coming my way but I plan to build a t-line for it this weekend and I need to know the surface diameter of the piston. In case someone has one and doesn't know what I mean, I need the measurement from center of surround to center of surround on opposite sides. Thanks in advance for your help!

Start with the crossover at 80hz and move up as needed.

Here you go.... Skar IVX-15 D2 v1 Re - 4.1971 Ω Fs - 27.92 hz ← Note: One woofer read 30.28 consistently and the other read 25.57 consistently. Qts - .703 Qes - .834 Qms - 4.78 Le - 1.346 mH Mms - 208.67 Vas - 5.27 Sd - 126.68 sq in EBP - 33.47 ← This means these woofers should be used in sealed or 4th order bandpass boxes. I tried to model a ported box for them and could never get a good curve.

I'll post the numbers for the 15 shortly... they're in the shop and I'm not.

Brand new in box, 2 different woofers tested four times each and averaged. But again, it was the 15. I have two 12s also but Purplehaze has my DATS at the moment... otherwise I'd check them for you.

I have TS numbers for the 15. I couldn't find them either so I pulled them with my DATS... Lemme know if they will help you.

Good box, good drivers & good settings with double the RMS power means you can get rated power to the drivers more often.

You can cheat it a bit by cutting off enough strands to fit the wire in the hole... just don't cut more than necessary. That's essentially the same as using a reducer. You can also double up on 12 if you already have enough of it and don't have 10... just be sure and only cut away the amount of strands necessary to get it in the hole.