Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


fishchris1 last won the day on August 12

fishchris1 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

35 Excellent

About fishchris1

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1831 profile views
  1. Nobody ? This seems less like a super important consideration for anyone wanting a nice SQ or SQL setup.
  2. I have both the Skar ZVX 18" and also a Skar 4 ch amp, and I love them both No problems from either.
  3. I'm really surprised they recommend 40 hz for that sub. I had to check that for myself, but yea, they say 40 hz.... Hmmm. If your a deep bass kind of guy, no. That is not going to be great. It might be pretty loud from 40 hz up to wherever your cabin gain peak is. Now, the 12"s, 15"s, and 18"a all have a recommended tuning of 31-32 hz. Great for deep bass. Anyway, not saying you couldn't tune it to 35, or even 32hz, but I'd be a little concerned going with such a different tuning frequency that what the company recommends. Btw, check out the recommended tuning frequency
  4. Ya know, I agree that DSP's are pretty technical, and can be a huge PITA, especially for someone without a lot of car audio experience. But I was told that if I wanted to keep my stock HU, it would basically sound like shit without a DSP. Not sure if that was 100% true or not, but I got an Axxess DSP, and it sounds fantastic Granted, even with 30 years of experience, it was still really painful getting that thing setup, and halfway dialed in. Now in my truck, I had an aftermarket HU, so I really didn't have to have a DSP, at all, but I got the Dayton 408 for $150, and
  5. Sometimes a little bigger, but 5ft net seems quite a bit bigger than one 15" needs. I'm running an 18" in 5 cubes bet. Most 15"s are best in like 2.7 to 3.5 cubes.
  6. Well, my answer was based on the assumption that the port area and port tuning were already figured correctly.
  7. I'm not am expert on this, but I know a fair bit about ports.... In my personal opinion, a long narrow port will work, but probably won't be as efficient as a wider narrower one, because of increased surface area (drag on the air passing through it) If you just have no choice, I'd probably go about 10 or 15% larger to make up for this.... And of course it will need to be accordingly longer, as well to get you to the same tuning point.
  8. Ha lol Me too ! Hey if go with another sub, you can always use that box building program I linked to.... And if it gives you any problems, just let me know. That stuff I posted didn't take too much time it work. I could do that again with different subs if you needed me too.
  9. Even those names sound good lol But again, they still need to be in an optimum enclosure.... Or else somebody would feel really dumb if my 18" Skar actually sounded better
  10. Just MPO, but I think even a cheaper subwoofer in an optimum enclosure, will sound far better, that a really expensive subwoofer (considered to be a high SQ model) which is not in the right enclosure. The 18" Skar ZVX I'm running right now has the best SQ of any of the subs I've ever ran in the last 30 years. Which tells me not only can cheaper subwoofers sound great.... But 18"s can play really tight and clean too Doesn't have to be a 10" Audio Frogg.. But then again, maybe a few 10" Audio Froggs would sound even better ? Never owned those, so I can't really be sure.
  11. Oh, but here's the elephant in the room. It's not even close to as big a deal, as to whether you run two 12"s, one 15", one 18", four 8"s, six 10"s, etc, etc, etc.... What matters 10 X's more, is how these subs are set up. The way they are fed, and of course, the enclosure they are put in. Let me put it this way, I Love my 18" sub. Super clean, digs deeper than shit, but hits kick drums so tightly.... And it's "pretty loud" by my standards. But I know a guy here in Sacramento with a single 12" that is SOOO much louder than my 18" it's rediculous. Maybe not as musical as
  12. I'd say, it's not enough difference to worry about. Now, going from two 12"s to two 15"s and doubling the power on each sub too, that would make a very big noticeable difference.
  13. Well yes, but not a lot of air gets back there. Then again my RF power 1000 never overheated.... And that Skar 4 ch definitely gets hotter, than the Wolfram, and it never overheats either. The Wolfram is a solid amp, but yea, it seems to get hot pretty quick. With the fans, and the AC cranked up, I think I can pretty much play it right to clipping almost indefinitely, without overheating, but I know a lot of guys can't give their amps so much open space, and cooling....
  14. Yea I hear you. Just saying, a couple of these with a little budget 2500 or 3000 amp would slap https://www.skaraudio.com/products/evl-15-inch-car-subwoofer I know you said you didn't have the space or tools.... But you can damn near make your own flat pack. What I always do / recommend, is to find a specialty wood store... Or at least a good lumbar yard "(not a home Depot or Lowe's) carry them a cut sheet, and walk out with your own flat pack. It would probably take me about 15 minutes with a piece of scratch paper and calculator to make a cut sheet for tho
  15. I love my Wolfram 2400.1. I did overheat it once.... Had gotten a new HU and was getting a little carried away, for too long, on a hot day..... The really bad thing though, was that (I believe... But can't be sure) it confused my head unit, which then started popping up with a message that said, "Amp Error"... Even after the amp cooled all the way off. Litterally had to pull the HU out and disconnect everything (I have no idea what actually fixed the problem) but hooked it all back up, and all was good. I'm just extra paranoid about overheating my amp again. So, I put a thermome
  • Create New...