Jump to content

Welcome to the SMD forum!


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

15 Good

About fishchris1

  • Rank

Recent Profile Visitors

1515 profile views
  1. Sorry I'm so late to reply. No honestly, using WinIsd Pro, PR boxes are really easy to calculate. Basically you just go with the factory suggested cubes, and put the parameters for the PR into WinIsd and it will tell you how much to weight your PR for any given tuning. Basically this is just a regular ported box, but the PR acts as your port. After using this setup for a few weeks now, I can't see myself ever using a standard ported box again. This is just the cleanest, most musical sub setup I've ever had.... And using a big ol' mid level 18" ! WTF ? I still can't believe it. SO worth the 1 1/2 db loss for the amazing SQ. I never felt that way about sealed boxes. I'm still not a sealed box guy.
  2. I thought cold cranking amps would be more important for spikes of power output ? As far as storing of energy goes, I will basically never be playing the stereo with the truck off... Plus I do plan to be getting a much stronger 300+ amp alternator. Honestly, my current system probably won't even have peaks that high, but I'm really doing the electrical stronger than needed for future proofing.
  3. Okay. Almost the same price as the group 65 Duracell I was looking at. So you think the Deep cycle factor will help me much ??? Either way, I will never sit with the truck off and stereo on. I've probably bought 20 big ass deep cycle lead acid batteries in my life, but they were all used for my electric trolling motors Edit; Btw, this thread also made me realize, that you can get a lead acid regular cranking battery, or deep cycle, just as you can get an AGM regular cranking batt, or an AGM deep cycle.... 4 completely different batteries....
  4. Did she tell you your port wasn't big enough ? Ahhh bro I'm sorry to hear that lol Don't mind me Just having fun
  5. Okay TY guys. I just figured the stock amp has done so well, for so long.... Granted, even if I were to keep it, I'd want to have it rebuilt. Instead, I think I'll just get a 320 amp alt and be done with it.
  6. I think that might be really ef'ng loud ! Looks great ! Love it Anxious to see it all finished, up and running....
  7. Hey guys btw, about that Power 1000 25 to life, amp, I need to use it for just a bit longer until I can get a new 4 ch. Then I need to decide if I'm going to try to get it fixed before selling it.... But that's not an easy thing, as it works great 98% of the time, it just cuts out on the mids / highs once in a while... I freaking hate intermittent problems... I know a lot of guys would just sell it as it is, and never mention that it has occasional glitches.... But I'm just too honest like that.
  8. It's an 08' F150, but only 65k miles on it. I keep it pretty clean.
  9. I remember way back I learned from a battery guy, that you could buy a generic version of the Odyssey battery for like $129. Used one of those in my trucks for quite a long time. It was a great battery but then my truck developed that slow drain, and I wasn't using the truck much then. Killed that battery dead, and that's when I started using these Walmart cheapies.
  10. TY very much Aaron. Well, I'm exaggerating a little... My amp is a Wolfram 2400.1 "which could put out" about 2530 wts... "If" I were running it into 1 ohm. But since I'm only making 2 ohms, it's actually only putting out about 1300 and change. Definitely more efficient that way though, right ? Not to mention, my Skar EVL 18" is only rated for 1250 RMS anyway, so it's getting pretty decent power. AND I'm still using the 4 stereo channels of my old RF Power 1000 25 to Life, so that's pretty close to 450 more watts. You make a very good point about the difference between volts and amps, which is another reason why I want to upgrade my electrical, even though my voltage is not dipping to badly. I'm sure it would make a big difference just as it did for you. I'm really not surprised to hear you say that it it did. Much thanks again.
  11. We tried that once before, but the problem was, even before removing any fuses, the amperage loss seemed completely within normal tolerances, so that was inconclusive. None the less, with a high quality battery, or a cheap garbage one (and I've used both) either way, that truck will kill a battery dead in maybe 7-10 days of sitting. I'm driving it a lot more often nowadays, so that hasn't been a problem, but none the less, I'd think it should be able to go at least 3 or 4 weeks...
  • Create New...